Here is a list of all the postings Gordon W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: HELP Wanted! Cutting Metal - But By What Means? |
03/12/2009 09:36:58 |
some more on cutting:_ I' d love a power hacksaw but... For heavy stuff I use angle grinder, smaller sections a 4 1/2" grinder with thin cutting blade. brass sheet etc a jig saw, mark- out both sides and put grease or cutting oil on underside, then you can see the line to cut to. For accurate work hand saw, does'nt really take that long, and less cleaning up. |
Thread: Taper screw |
25/11/2009 16:43:22 |
Thanks Nigel,I've just been to look at a tractor/hydrualic screw splitter and of course you are right.My idea was to make one electrc motor/flywheel drive but looks like a non-starter. But I've been reading Milling in the lathe, Tubal Cain. In there is description of spiral fluting and etc. using a cutter head in the toolpost, this might be adaptable to scerw cutting 2 or 3 start threads on a taper, but will have to wait. |
Thread: Grub screw has turned to cheese! |
25/11/2009 16:29:09 |
I'll second Circlip on the Imp. thread. Grub screws for max. effect should be as close together as poss. preferably in line, the idea being to get as much shaft in contact with the bore as poss., not being driven by two screw points. |
Thread: Taper screw |
19/11/2009 10:22:47 |
Charadam:_ strange story, have just been at the back of one of my sheds to clear rats, and uncovered a rotten wooden box containing old ex telephone/electric pole fittings inc. large coachscrew, very heavy galvanising on all. Thanks for the offer tho'. SteveB, like the idea,but with deep threads might be too much, wonder if a taper guide at back of slide will work? Sort of hand held taper turning atttachment. Any way this idea will stay just that until I do a few calcs., (and paint the bathroom) |
17/11/2009 11:33:44 |
IanSC:_hello,I've just been in the shed counting changewheels, should be able to cut 10mm pitch if the wheels will fit in the banjo, but I've got the toothache and all brain power has stopped. Will try again in a couple of days. |
17/11/2009 09:44:45 |
Hi, charadam-thanks for that link, one of those would maybe work, will go down the pub and see if anyone can get one.. Don't have taper attachment, one day will make one but for a one off seems a lot of work. Pitch I,m guessing at 2 or 3 per inch but this is the experimental bit. |
16/11/2009 14:48:58 |
Thanks for the info. will buy bell end cd for other job. For interest the best ideas so far are 1-turn taper on t/slide and weld spiral on. 2-hand turn the screw thread, never tried that, sounds scary. |
15/11/2009 11:34:44 |
Thanks for idea, just been reading other thread about taper turning, seems the offset will be way too much for this angle and depth of cut. It will need a pointy end, more or less. Just had idea,_ drill and weld in large coachscrew to get the sharp point, then offset tailstock and screw at shallower angle, will go and fiddle about. Where can I get a bell end center drill (mail order)? |
14/11/2009 10:18:14 |
Does anyone have any ideas? I want to make a taper thread, like the end of a woodscrew, about 2" dia X about 6" long ,coarse thread, this will be for a log splitter, so OT a bit. My lathe is 8" swing x 16".No probs turning the taper, only thing I can think is to weld a spiral on then hand fettle, this is a one off so don't want a huge amount of tooling to make. And no I don't have a mill. |
Thread: Hints and tips |
14/11/2009 10:07:44 |
Here's two old tips, I've not seen written down, probably too basic for most of you lot. 1:-after setting up for thread cutting put a pencil in tool post and "cut the thread" then check pitch, saves some grief. 2:-for all of us without QCTs ,glue the shims to the tool after setting CH. Any old glue will do, saves some grief. |
Thread: Overheating grinder |
06/11/2009 12:00:22 |
Hi again,have just checked both my cheapo grinders neither have vent holes, never noticed before! Thin cut-off discs on 4" & 41/2" angle grinders. I also stored inst. books and lots of other useful ? information in workshop/ shed, what hasn't gone mouldy is being used as a mouse house.I also am from Yorkshire, but the real bit ,North where we talk proper. Files can be cleaned and derusted by the electrolysis method, works well. |
06/11/2009 10:04:13 |
Hi Peter, spelt rite this time! I'm amazed you have the instruction book after all these years. Was going to suggest angle grinder also,best thing for lots of metal removal. The modern? thin cut of wheels are great, also for cutting tool steel blanks to length. |
03/11/2009 14:50:49 |
Hi, Petre-I have an even older cheapo 5" grinder, and it gets hot, best advice I can give is let it run with no load to let the fan work as much as possible.The air holes are clear arn't they? Can't be doing much wrong after 20 yrs. |
Thread: Free offers with subsciptions |
28/10/2009 09:52:06 |
I am losing hair over this "free gift" saga. I've had a subscription for 2 years or more, the book I was promised was "out of stock", Was offered an alternative, this never came. Despite writing, emailing, and telephoning nothing has arrived, now they ignore letters. I would cancel my sub. exept I like the mag. ,but I don't like being conned. |
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines |
23/10/2009 10:36:55 |
Hi, Ian- Flywheels, my problems are 1) can't get much in way of material except scrap, can't afford it anyway. 2) Lath will only turn 8" dia. max. truing up usually done with my favourit tool, the angle grinder. Should be OK for low revs. |
21/10/2009 15:07:39 |
Hi ,'m still collecting parts for my new "big" model. Fly wheel- 2 brake discs, one with centre cut out, bolted together and to a flange. Some ideas on welding etc.. Stainless steel is easy to silver solder with correct flux, bad conducter of heat so prop. torch OK. MIG on thin stuff not easy, I do "plug welds" on the 2CV. Have just got some MIG brazing wire, use with argon, I'm still practising but looks good for thin stuff and S/St. N.B not for pressure vessels, before somebody shoots me down. |
Thread: Lathe Backgear |
20/10/2009 11:04:40 |
Hi, I've a chester 8" x 16" ,lowest speed is 125 rpm,the first thing I did on it was to rebore a water pump(domestic supply), this is way to big a job really, but it got done, now Iam making a larger pulley for the mandrel, boring out the center to fit on the O/D of existing pulley with 3 "legs" to fix to existing pulley with 3 screws, this will give a low speed about 70 rpm will need a new bigger belt. I also use a hand wheel for screwcutting, much easier and quicker, but I only do short threads, maybe 5 or 10 |
Thread: End mills in a drill chuck |
25/09/2009 09:55:25 |
I've used a drill chuck with end mill/slot drill for flat bottoming holes, also home made chuck, by drilling hole in soft end M/T arbour and holding with grub screw, I dont have any choice, like lots of others. Has nobody ever "opened up" a hole by using the side of the drill in a hand drill? Just use common sense |
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines |
22/09/2009 10:26:10 |
Thanks for replies, will plan for a leather piston seal, and hollow displacer rod. Was thinking more of fatigue stress in disp. with constant change of pressure. My planned engine has disp. chamber 100mm bore x 100mmstroke, chamber length 300mm, in S/St. Disp. will be 95mm dia. ? x 200mm long. Power piston aprox. 60mm dia. to suit 2CV barrel i've just dug up, with stroke to suit! Both axes parallel. Next find big flywheel, and redraw plans. My small LTD motor has leak in displacer gland bearing ,I made this by fitting a plug at each end of bush, bored 1.5mm with brass rod, 1/16 dia polished down to fit.,but it leaks!! Yes was in engineering, mostly as Draffy, now retired |
21/09/2009 10:34:49 |
I've made a couple of little hot air motors, which don,t go, am now planning a larger model. This will have 4" bore hot cap, and about 2.5" bore power cyl., depending on what I can find. Questions:- Will a leather washer seal,on a cut away piston be suitable, and can it be made the same way as a small one? Also, would a small hole in the displacer be a good idea? I'm thinking of pressure relief after temp. rise. NB:-I'm not much of a model maker, still think of M6 as a small bolt. |
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