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Member postings for Ian S C

Here is a list of all the postings Ian S C has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Taper cutting
16/11/2009 01:42:28
Chris,I think the tool use are talking about is one that looks something like a D bit and when mounted is horizontalfore and aft and tilted about 45deg to the left(ie to the chuck).Some grind the end at rt angles to the tool shank,others the end is a slight curve,same efect which ever.IAN S C
Thread: Which screw thread system to use?
16/11/2009 01:15:18
In Canada you'll proberbly have most available UNF and UNC,I use both of those here in NZ quite a bit,although I also use BSF and Whitworth an sometimes metric,the latter being the standard here.
Thread: Books for beginers
16/11/2009 01:00:48
Hi Andy,The aluminium could(on a more modern lathe) be cut much faster rather than the steel slower.As books go I'v even got Metal Turning Made Easy,The Simple Lathe and its Accessories andSmall Lathes Making and Using,these are three books of the"Amateur Mechanic and Work"handbooks,mine are the Austrailian edition 1943,but they were first published in 1920 in UK.I also have"How to Run a Lathe",and "How To Cut Screw Threads In The Lathe" these books published by the South Bend Lathe Works USA and dating back to the 1930s.I also have some of the newer ones mentioned above.They all have some ideas usfull to use with limited gear.IAN S C
Thread: Metric vs Imperial - Practical or Traditional?
16/11/2009 00:30:56
Ah yes,but mph?Ian s c
Thread: Taper cutting
15/11/2009 12:05:31
Hi Circlip,I'v never personally tryed the ballend centers,and with that angle and that weight of metal I wouldn't try it in this case.IAN S C
Thread: Taper screw
15/11/2009 11:54:37
Just off set the top slide,you'll need to move it along a time or two,but you won't have to set over the tail stock,and more important you won't have to reset the thing after you'v finished(thats the important bit).As gordon says the angle is really too big for this method-setting over that is.IAN S C ps if you were in this part of the world no way would you buy a bellend center.
Thread: Taper cutting
15/11/2009 10:05:15
Hi Chris,I was just explaining belled centers to a friend today in conjunction withthis question,but my oppinion is that the taper being attempted is too great.The material could be something like Nickel alloy steel,or stainless,but I think it more likely that the angle of the centers in their holes means that the work is just being pushed away from the tool,might get away with ball ended centers,but I would use the top slide set over,even if it needed two or three moves sideways to get the full taper cut.I think the "awfull chatter" indicates the lack of support.IAN S C
Thread: Metric vs Imperial - Practical or Traditional?
15/11/2009 09:30:01
Wee bit off target,just been watching Top Gear,Clarkson driving a BMW Z4 140mph,program UK car German ?mph.IAN S C
Thread: Taper cutting
14/11/2009 09:52:03
Tony,he has put in center holes!Of course he could be using an old half shaft-nitrided 5-6mm on the out side.IAN S C
Thread: Hints and tips
13/11/2009 10:58:54
One idea I thought of some time ago,a competion at club or what ever-setting a bar in a four jaw chuck ie how fast,how accurate,perhaps two groups,beginers and experts.Could be either with or without a DTI.IAN S C
Thread: O-ring coming off pulley when motor power is cut
13/11/2009 10:15:42
Hi maff,Just follow John Haines advice,have a look at a bicycle,thats exactly the same.I got some roller clutches out of some old printers,they are fitted inside the hub of a nylon gear and drive on a 5mm shaft.IAN S C
Thread: Useful Speed Ranges
12/11/2009 10:59:47
Is the motor AC orDC,the only one I'v seen was DC,but if you have the power supply that goes with it thats good.Proberbly pay to keep the motor revs up,but the lathe maximum would not be more than 700-800rpm,and most of your work will proberbly be half that.You would be best to use a counter-shaft to drop the speed,the counter-shaft driven by a 1450rpm motor is about 4-500rpm,so you'v got a lot of revs to loose.IAN S C
Thread: O-ring coming off pulley when motor power is cut
12/11/2009 10:18:03
The bendix drive on a car starter motor.IAN S C
Thread: Which boring bar to get.
10/11/2009 11:04:02
If you haven't got a big enough lump of steel to drill a hole through as Jason B suggests,you can make a little V block,and clamp down on the round bar,this is quite OK for occasional use.IAN S C
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines
10/11/2009 10:55:40
I'll bring the wooden Ross linkage model,and one or two other bits and pieces.I think I can fit the new engine into a space of about 6 1/2"(165mm)x 5"(130mm)x2"(50mm),and I think it would be easy enough to pressurise the motor.The way I make hot caps,I take a piece of steel the dia of the flange at the cold end,and a wee bit longer than final length,place in chuck,drill to depth as near to size as I have a drill,bore to size and square the bottom inside.On my hot caps the cold end has a thread cut internally to screw onto the cold end(I use 32 tpi on all my engines),then remove from the chuck.Mount up a steel bar and make a mandrel that includes a threaded part,drill a hole through the center(to let the air out),without removing the mandrel from the lathe place the bored out hot cap on the mandrel and turn the outer dia to size-whether this is the correct way or not I don't know,but it works for me,when you teach yourself--well!IAN S C
09/11/2009 10:05:50
Hi folks,just in from the workshop,I'v just built a wooden mock up of a Ross Drive hot air motor,I'm not sure if I'v got the bellcrank dimentions correct,some diagrams it appears to be a equilateral triangle,My one is 60mm and 35/35,crankshaft 1/2" throw,the piston stroke is 13/16",seems ok by me,this is a model of the next design that I would like to make,I intend to make it with about a 35mm bore.IAN S C
Thread: Tyres
08/11/2009 11:00:53
Saw some tyres in the pet department of one of or large retail shops,about 100mm dia,good tread,built to look like a car tyre,must be quite tough,made to be chewed by the dog.IAN S C
Thread: Overheating grinder
07/11/2009 11:49:27
Peter don't put on larger wheels,your machine has barely enough power for what it has now,my 5" grinder is 300w and I find that fairly minimal as far as power goes.I havn't opened it up but I think it has a start winding and switching so it will run cooler,the shaded pole motor has a shorted turn of copper that tends to heat up these motors are only ment for light use.Chris is right,here in NZ the stones would cost about NZ$30/£10,I got my 5" grinder for$25 hardly used.IAN S C
Thread: Compressed air on lathe
07/11/2009 11:10:17
Had good illustration of the effect of metal(swafe from bandsaw)on a domestic vacuum cleaner,bosses grandson helping to clean up the workshop--BANG-silence.Many years ago saw another one accidently sucking up petrol soaked rubbish--whoosh-silence,so just watch what you use the vacuum cleaner for,unless it is effectivly isolated from the motor it would not be good using it when cutting cast iron or brass where you have fine particals that could go through the bag and into the motor.IAN S C
Thread: Overheating grinder
06/11/2009 12:45:10
Hi Peter,sounds as though your grinder has a shaded pole motor,so it will run hot.The cooling may be via half a dozen holes through the armature parallel to the spindle,or maybe at a slight angle.Neither my 6" or 5" grinder have any vents for cooling,but they seem to run cool enough,the 6" one just needs new bearings.IAN S C
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