Here is a list of all the postings bricky has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Please assist with my fist mill choice |
14/11/2012 10:25:13 |
Hello George. I have a SX3 and it dose all that I want and is a sturdy and reliable machine with an R8 spindle.The service and assistance that I have received from Arc Eurotrade has been great and for me couldn,t be bettered. I hope you find what you are looking for. Francis |
Thread: Teflon Spray ? |
09/09/2012 19:34:01 |
Hi Having worked outside in the building trade for 50 years ,rust was a problem on any tools. These were left on site in tin huts on my firm so you can imagine the condensation problems. An old joiner told me to use long oil,this is any oil that is held between finger and thumb and forms a long drip.This kept his tools free and mine also over the years.I have continued to use chain saw oil on any machine surface in my workshop,it works for me. Francis |
Thread: Strange Noise from Myford Super 7+ |
10/08/2012 17:51:58 |
hi Bob I have a S7 large bore that I bought at the Myford Sale weekend.I had the same problem as you describe.After much frustration I thought the seizure was happening in the bull wheel and i adjusted the bearings,there was an improvement but I am not sure wether it was the bull wheel or the main bearing.I was still not getting good performance so I called in the Myford fitters Pete and Darron,this was money well spent and the machine runs beautifully.I do not think my tinkering would ever have achieved this quality of running.The lathe is everything that I would want. Francis |
Thread: Rigidity of X2 Mill |
16/07/2012 19:08:36 |
I own a SX3 and when using a large slot drill I had a lot of unwelcome vibration.I fastened the head of the column to an RSJ that runs above the mill,with builders roofing straps .These come in various lengths up to 4' and are drilled with multiple holes already drilled .I cranked the ends and bolted them to the RSJ on either side and fitted one to the roof at the rear ,this has improved the rigidity of the column. An angle screwed some length along the roof would do the job. Francis |
Thread: Link belt on Myford |
12/07/2012 18:41:55 |
John. I would recommend that you remove the spindle and fit the proper belt.Since having this fitted I have had no problems.The link belt that I fitted was a Z profile and like you it rode on top of the pulley with hardly any side engagement .The removal of the spindle is not difficult and if you follw the instructions you will be fine.Tip from Darren the fitter when tightening the the C ring at the rear of the pulley give a sharp tap with the hammer on the C spanner. Francis |
10/07/2012 19:23:07 |
I had vibration problems 20 years ago on my s7,I asked advice from Myford and was advised to fit a Brammer link belt. This cured the problem and I never had slippage with this make .When I bought my large bore Myford it had some vibration problems amongst other things and so I fitted a Power Twist link belt .I experienced slippage and no amount of tightening would solve it.The cone pully is smaller than my old lathe which is A size this new lathe hardly takes a Z size and dose not fill the pulley.I have had Darren and Pete who service Myfords and they removed the link belt and fitted a new belt along with other problems that were causing the vibration.Make sure the clutch pulley and the motor pulley are in perfect alignment,mine wasn,t and this had some bearing on my vibration problems.The service I received from guys was excellent and worth the money. Francis
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Thread: R8 |
29/06/2012 08:04:12 |
I use a 2 morse taper ER25 collet chuck as well as a clair autolock with the same taper in an R8 by using anR8 2mt sleeve .The drawbar perhaps has a different thread mine is smaller so it passes through the adapter and pulls everything together.If the draw bar will not pass through turn out the threaded portion of the R8 adapter. Francis |
Thread: First cut |
05/06/2012 18:28:51 |
I agree with Paul about Diamond tools.I have used one for some time and had excellent results.I use tipped tools for most work,but use the diamond tool for finishing cuts ,it is a very versatile tool.If your purse stretches to it I would have one,I have never regretted mine. Regards Francis
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Thread: What's this tool? |
18/02/2012 20:00:49 |
Hello Steve I don,t know the specific use for this tool ,but it looks as if it was made to turn something on.The cut outs at the top are I think the important bit with the wedge shaped screwdriver shapes being to guide the tool into the switch/lock/valve? Francis |
Thread: Setting up a SX3 |
24/01/2012 20:17:27 |
I own a sx3 and am very pleased with it,s performance.
I use a laser pocket level with a small tripod bought from a supermarket to tram my head.The idea is from an article I read in MEW or ME .You make a threaded rod to mount in the spindle collet and attach the level,you then take a piece of white card and set it on the end of the table,mark the position of the laser dot on the card,measure the distance to the centre of the spindle and then mount the card the same distance at the opposite end,hopefully the dots will correspond if not you can see which way you need to adjust.this also works across the table but you need a piece of board to extend the range.I have also taken out the movement of the column by bolting flat bar to the column, there are two handy screws in the top of the column and then securing the bars to the ceiling,and a further bar to the rear self tapped in the cover.It really is rigid now.
Francis |
Thread: Dehumidfier in shed would it help? |
06/01/2012 23:46:29 |
Hello Duncan
I have the same size workshop as yourself. I have no insulation on the half brick walls,three double glazed windows and a draught proof door.I have no heating but I do have a de-humidifyer it works only at night and still keeps the rust at bay.Draught proofing is essential and I still cover my machines with rags.I also have the benefit of living in one of the driest counties,Lincolnshire . I hope you solve your problem .
Bricky |
Thread: Lathe cutting out of true |
05/01/2012 20:20:28 |
Hello Jon
The first thing to do is what has already been suggested,that is to read up on setting up a lathe as it appears that you have not set up properly before starting to use the lathe.
Setting over the tailstock should only be done after the bed has been assessed for twist with a level over the bed then turn a 8" length of bar in the three jaw under power feed.,if this is not true keep adjusting the hold down bolts until you have truth. then proceed to the tailstock. Hope this helps.
Bricky |
Thread: Turning very thin bar |
30/12/2011 18:02:59 |
hello Woolfie
No one has mentioned the use of a home made running down cutter.
I have a selection that I have made and used over the years.To make one for your job use some 3/16" silver steel,drill No50 for the depth required ,then file four cutting faces ,stone to sharpness.Harden and temper job done.Hope this helps
Bricky |
30/12/2011 18:02:59 |
hello Woolfie
No one has mentioned the use of a home made running down cutter.
I have a selection that I have made and used over the years.To make one for your job use some 3/16" silver steel,drill No50 for the depth required ,then file four cutting faces ,stone to sharpness.Harden and temper job done.Hope this helps
Bricky |
Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG |
25/07/2011 17:04:13 |
Clive.
I have a Myford Super Seven and had problems with vibration.I was advised by Myfords to fit a link belt as this would help,it worked fine, so I would fit one.
Bricky |
Thread: What Collet type, 5C or ER25 |
17/05/2011 21:53:46 |
Bricky
I would have an auto lock chuck for the milling machine ,as I have had at critical moments downward creep of the cutter using ER32 collets disconcerting I can assure you.I have just bought a Posilock milling chuck
regards Frank |
Thread: Amateurs |
23/03/2011 20:25:04 |
Donald
Have you visited a model engineering exhibition.If you have I am surprised by your remarks,as the majority of the entrants are self taught and there workmanship is remarkable.Please enter your advice for those of us who benefit by the knowledge of a skilled man .
Bricky |
Thread: Bench Tidy |
12/01/2011 19:22:45 |
The idea was taken from the office tidy.
To make ,obtain some lengths of waste pipe ,bath waste sink waste and overflow pipe.
Take a piece of board 4"by a length to suit your needs.Cut up your pipe to the lengths to suit your tools.Take a hot melt glue gun and glue around the base of the pipes and run glue between them,you now have a very useful storage stand and you can see the tools you require at a glance.Cheap and easy.Hope this helps someone.
Francis |
Thread: Casting concrete beams |
02/11/2010 17:37:28 |
Hello John.
The size of the beam and the length is a factor.
If you have access to a machine to lift the beams then they can be cast in shuttering on the ground.If not they will need to be cast in situ in a supported shutter.
The mix for concrete for beams (shovels)10 gravel 5 Sharp sand 2 cement or if it is mixed ballast I use 7 ballast 1 cement.
The reinforcing bar needs 2 longitudal rods top and bottom with bar bent into a square at 300mm centres tied with wire to the 4 rods to form a cage.Keep the cage 25mm up from the bottom/side&top .Hire a vibrating poker to remove the air .Hope this helps
Francis |
Thread: Poor surface finish using Myford |
06/06/2010 17:17:41 |
Hi Steve.
I Have nothing to add from the previous advice except that if finances permit The Diamond Tool Holder as advertised by Eccentric Engineering is a brilliant tool.This is so easy to sharpen and to set to height and with the sharpening jig supplied to can,t fail to get a sharp tool.My work has improved greatly since i have been using one.Make sure it,s tight if taking interupted cuts.Hope this helps on top of all advice .
Francis |
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