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Member postings for IanT

Here is a list of all the postings IanT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: MMBasic Pico Logic Analyser
07/02/2023 11:44:07

I'm going to make another update to this thread because I'm really impressed by what's been done here and the fact that none of this would have been possible just a few years ago. I could never have afforded a Logic Analyser for the very occessional use I might put it too. I dabble in electronics but it's certainly not my main hobby.

The Pico LA has grown out of a collaboration between a few enthusiasts in UK, Holland and Australia. It started as a 'Tutorial' to help forum members understand how the Pico PIOs worked. It was picked up by the lead developer who added to MMB to enable access to the PIOs within MMB. A series of exercises were built to help users gain experience and within a few weeks this software started to emerge. A quite remarkable achievement from a few clever people scattered around the world.

For anyone who doubts the capability of this little device - it is capable of sampling upto 42 msps (million samples per second) - so a bit faster than my Z80 based Nascom 2 could manage. I have some older DROs I'd like to hook up to an external display (and be able to programme the output) and I think this will give me the means to do so.

In the meanwhile, a few early PicoLA routines are already emerging for anyone who needs to look at I2C or SPI devices - in principle any serial communications.

Anyway - I'll update this thread from time to time as I think it has a lot of potential and hopefully will be of use to folk who might also "dabble" in these things like myself.

Regards,

IanT

mmb pico la - spi.jpg

mmb pico la - i2c.jpg

Thread: Source of small metric steel screws - non stainless
06/02/2023 23:22:52

I've just mic'ed a couple of my 10BA (brass) C/H 10BA screws Steve and they are 0.108" - 0.109". Had them a while so fairly old stock. I haven't checked my books to see what they should be. Probably in Machinery somewhere...don't think it's crucial

Anyway, that's about 2.75mm - so 3mm stock should turn down quite nicely.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Grinding your own hss lathe tools. Tips & tricks?
06/02/2023 14:52:33

Why wont this myth die? HSS holds its hardness at red heat. Thats the whole point of HSS.

It is *very* unlikely you will be able to temper a piece of HSS using a bench grinder.

Dave

I generally agree Dave but I think there could be an issue with getting HSS tooling quite hot and then dunking them into cold water. I've read of "micro-fractures" being caused by the sudden temeperature changes, especially on the cutting edge(s). The tool tip is then more fragile and probably won't bear up as welll. I work on the general rule that if the tool is too hot to hold then you should probably let it cool. I also tend to do tool grinding in batches, so it's easy enough to rotate through them.

I guess it mght be worth mentioning that for my 'Diamond' holder I have spare toolbits, so I can just swop them out as needed, much easier than just using the one.

Another advantage of the 'Rose' blocks is that they act as a heat-sink for the smaller 3/16th tools. I also have 'spare' 3/16th tools but they are still placed in a block to be sharpened. This helps with cooling and of course also gets the grinding height right (for the front clearance). May be worth mentioning that you can do all this work on the front of the wheel - which is not only safer but is also the only part of the wheel that you can dress.

So I agree but whilst I don't think 'Blueing' HSS tools is a huge problem, I still prefer to avoid it - and dunking very hot tools into cold water is probably not a good idea either...

Regards,

IanT

06/02/2023 09:55:18

Well, on the Myford a Diamond tool holder does a great deal of my day to day work, the main reason being that it's very simple to keep the tool sharp.

On my small EW I use 'Rose' blocks generally and (like yourself) decided that 3/16th HSS was quite robust enough for that lathe. One thing I do not bother with however is back rake. I have tools for both steel and brass. The former have side and top rake, the later just side rake. The first grind is such that I keep the cutting edge level with the top surface of the tool - obviously easy with the brass tools as they have no top rake but a bit more care required for the steel cutting ones.

Once you have this then the tool is simply sharpened (in it's holder) on the front face, the wheels' curve giving front clearance. It's quicker to do than even a 'diamond' tool and cutting height is not effected. The only variable is how much angle to put on the front face and usually I put very little on (just enough for clearance) as this gives a stronger cutting edge. They are lightly stoned to round the front leading edge.

It may not be too obvious in the photo below but the top (furthest away) block has a l/h steel tool and the middle block a r/h brass tool (so the side clearance is on the camera side). The bottom tool was used to trim plastic btw. I do grind special tools but these 3/16th ones work well for most jobs on the EW. So not what the books say but it works for me. A quick and convenient way to keep tools sharp.

Regards,

IanT

Rose Blocks

Thread: MMBasic Pico Logic Analyser
03/02/2023 13:54:36

WARNING - Look away now Dave!

As some here will know, I've been a user of 'Micromites' for some time now, as in my view they are easier to set-up and debug for many embedded applications than the better known alternatives. My early ones used a 28pin PIC32 chip. Micromites all run a modern version of BASIC, known as Micromite Basic (MMB).

Most recently, I've been using 'Picomites' - Mites based on the RPi Pico, which give a very powerful, inexpensive and easy-to-use controller. Another version of the Picomite (PicomiteVGA) uses the second CPU (and one PIO) to deliver 16 colour VGA graphics, whilst also delivering full compute power from the other CPU (e.g. a 'Home' computer)

I'm busy building two of these PicomiteVGA computers. One for myself and one for my Grandson, mainly as a fun way to get him into computers and also something that can play simple games (without needing Internet access). I happen to have two old VGA monitors and PS2 keyboards (but I think you can still buy them) - so the cost will be very low - about £20 each in my case.

However, the clever people who have made all this possible have been busy exploring ways to build a PIO (Programmable I/O) 'assembler' into (Pico) MMB and have been making very good progress in this area. The Pico has two PIO channels that are very fast and can operate independantly of the two ARM CPUs. So once you've set them up, they can race away, regardless of what the main processors are up to.

Recently, one of the Programmers behind the PIO effort has developed an 8 Channel Logic Analyser that is starting to look very useable. Enough so that I'm thinking of building another PicomiteVGA as a dedicated LA system ( I ordered x 5 PMVGA PCBs) - the cost of the other components being minimal, with the software being free of course.

I'm not aware of anything that provides this level of functionality at this price point, so I thought it was worth a mention here. Please don't ask me too many technical questions at this point, I'm familiar with 'Mites' in general but not the PIO aspects at this time. Fortunately, the LA coding has been done for us and it's a simple cut and paste job to load it. The PMVGA also has a filing system (SD card or Flash) so you can data-log too (if you are cleverer than me).

More info here:

TheBackShed.com - Forum

Regards,

 

IanT

MMB Pico logic analyser - feb23.jpg

 

 

Edited By IanT on 03/02/2023 13:55:57

Edited By IanT on 03/02/2023 13:58:31

Thread: Piercing saw blade advice wanted.
02/02/2023 20:58:07

I've only ever used Cousins (and have been very happy with their service too)

They list up to No 8 "cut" (11t / cm) in Vallorbe 'Super Pike'.

Vallorbe "Super Pike" Saw Blades (cousinsuk.com)

Regards,

IanT

02/02/2023 19:01:58

I'm not quailfied enough to disagree with you Michael!

IanT

02/02/2023 18:54:01

Steve,

I've always used the "three teeth cutting" rule of thumb where possible, whilst also trying to keep the tooth count reasonably low (to allow waste material to clear). So personally I would use a finer blade than Cooksons recommend for 1.3mm (they state a G4 - 15t/cm) but a G4 would be good for 3.2mm.

I used Cousins 'house' blades for many years but the price difference between economy blades and 'brand' ones for the quantity I use (e.g. break) isn't worth scrimping on. So I use the Vallorbe 'Super Pike' these days - which cut very well. Rather than buy a blade 'selection' - to start out I'd just get a G 4 and a G 3/0 - should do for most of the work you mention. You are going to break a few blades to begin with, so don't sweat on the different blade sizes too much.

Regards,

 

IanT

PS I'm not a Watchmaker btw - just my opinion

Edited By IanT on 02/02/2023 18:59:17

Thread: Juneero
01/02/2023 23:02:58

Have a look here Baz

Juneero (circuitousroot.com) - and quoting from there:

"The supplied die was 6BA and the standard thread was also 6BA.  The 1941 reviewer in Model Engineer { ME 2070} gives the rod diameter as 1/8 inch. But Kevin Steele gives the rod diameter as 0.104 inch (from his research, I believe, not from examination of materials). A quick search online indicates that a 6BA thread has a diameter over the thread of 0.11 inches, which splits this difference. The strip width was 3/8 inch, and the angle width was 3/8 by 3/8 inch. Strip thickness was 0.028 inch, in soft mild steel (or one could use aluminum)"

I have a Junero tool myself by the way - but none of the original material - which was sold in 1/- packets (for folk who still remember how much that was!)   

Some more information here: Juneero - The Brighton Toy and Model Index (brightontoymuseum.co.uk)

Apart from the ME stuff, there were also two short articles in Practical Mechanics (1940) - that I have if you are interested.

Regards,

 

IanT

 

Edited By IanT on 01/02/2023 23:07:00

Thread: Your memories of Live Steam please.
21/01/2023 18:32:39

Hopefully not all the petrol stations Howard. I've just got a new motor and I intend to take good care of it and keep her going for a long time. Well long enough anyway.

As for Pubs, I've been in several recently that don't actually sell Beer ( ?? ) . Just that pale yellow stuff (reminds me of something but I can't put my finger on it off-hand) that my sons drink. No wonder they are going out of business.

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 21/01/2023 18:33:04

21/01/2023 16:55:07

My Grandad used to come and get me from Norwood on his bike (about 1950) and we always stopped to watch the trains go under the bridge. I was very sure that I knew where that 'bridge' was - and prompted by this thread, went to look for it on Google Maps. There is a tunnel entrance near where I thought we watched but clearly it's not the bridge that I remember. So I 'walked' the route and I think I've found that bridge but it's not where I've believed it to be for all these years.

My Nan was not too happy with him when I turned up with soot all over my face and clothes either but he always let me wait for a train. Never saw that much of the engines but I still remember the smell and sound of them (and the smoke of course). Still reminds me of him

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Myford 7 interesting attachment
18/01/2023 17:48:48

Martin Cleeve made a similar reduction gearbox for the EW lathe. It allowed a slower saddle feed than might available with the usual screwcutting gears. Also, saved some effort & time when swopping between screw-cutting and (fine-feed) turning.

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Simple PCB layout software
17/01/2023 09:27:48

Hi Duncan,

Well these latest boards cost $9.32 for Qty 5, plus $6.35 for shipping, plus $3.06 Custom & Taxes - so a total of $18.76. I paid using PayPal and the cost in Sterling came out at £16.58 - or £3.32 a board.

The finished product is fully tested, screen printed etc - it's as good as any commercial product (it is a commercial product in fact) and certainly far better than I could do myself (even assuming I had time to learn to do so). This route/method may not suit every application (such as An Os' ) but I know other people who use JLCPCB and they are also happy customers.

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 17/01/2023 09:28:19

16/01/2023 16:13:04

I've never got around to learning PCB layout s/w I'm afraid John - so I can't help in that area I'm afraid. I did think about it at one time (using Fritzing) but in many ways, the need to do so is going away...

I've always used proto-boards for small one-offs but increasingly commercial 'modules' are available that are not only very compact but also often cheaper than I can buy the individual components for. Since Arduino and it's shields, many have a 'standard' pin-out - and now with the Pico and my (Pico-based) 'Mites' I can use a backplane and just plug & play with them.

I do order PCBs from China, as various kind folk have made their designs (e.g. gerbers) available for use. These guys are lot more experienced than I am ever likely to be and frankly I get a very professional product with very little effort or cost. It might be useful to say that I've used JLCPCB on several occasions and their quality and pricing are excellent. The latest five PCBs (I ordered on the 9th Jan) are already in Park Royal sorting office - and possibly the Royal Mail will be the slowest part of the process.

However, I guess my bottom line is that for the kind of thing I generally do, I'm often just linking pre-made modules, plugging them into something or using an existing design that some clever guy has kindly made available for Dummies like me download.

Regards,

 

IanT

Edited By IanT on 16/01/2023 16:26:22

Thread: Midlands Garden Rail Show- 11th & 12th March 2023
06/01/2023 11:41:15

"This event has over 15 layouts and clubs attending with a diverse range of layouts and models in Gauge 1, O Gauge, G Scale and more"

I assume the "more" bit being 2.5" Gauge - represented both by the Gauge '3' Society and the National 2.5" Gauge Association. The 16mm guys will have to decide whether they are G1 (45mm) or G0 (32mm) of course!

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Temperature sensor DS 18B20
03/01/2023 21:24:05

"All BASICs have shortcomings!" - I've been told that all LANGUAGES have some shortcomings Dave...

"If BASIC were suitable for all purposes it would be widely used, and it isn't! " - Quite right but we don't need it for all purposes, just a few specific (embedded) ones and MM Basic does these very well indeed.

"It's because BASIC languages have too many shortcomings for serious programming in a professional setting" - I'm sure that's right but my "settings" aren't professional and I don't have enough spare time to be "serious".

"But apart from them knowing it already, I can't think of a good reason for recommending BASIC to a newcomer" - Well perhaps because someone has done such a great job of matching the software to the hardware and then documenting it so clearly. Or because MMB has a small but very enthusistic user group (many it would seem being software "professionals" ) that use and work hard to improve it.

It's also a little misleading to link a Picomite to 80's 'tech' (such as the ZX80 etc) because it is very much 21st Century tech - both the Pico (hardware) and MMB. But if you crave "retro" there is a version of the Picomite(VGA) that generates VGA Graphics and supports a PS2 keyboard. It uses the second ARM CPU and one of the PIOs to seamlessly generate the video, whilst the other ARM CPU delivers the 'compute' bit - delivering pretty much the same performance as the (non-VGA) Picomite. Even in 1980, £3.60 didn't buy you very much - today it gets you a great deal...

So, yes - the Picomite is a very specific tool but one that I find extremely useful. There's no point in telling me it's not suitable for this or that - I already know it's very good for the uses I put it to. I think others would find this too.

Regards,

 

IanT

 

PS - Bob, as Robert has already suggested - a Picomite, SD card and 2 AA batteries (already got a breadboard?) would give you a simple way to check your DS18B20's and cabling. Use Geoff's code - just a few lines. Cost you about £6 to do. What's your time worth?

Edited By IanT on 03/01/2023 21:24:36

03/01/2023 16:08:41

Yes, we've been around this house many times Dave!

The £3.60 Pico normally clocks at 133Mhz and therefore runs MM Basic at 100,000 lines per second.

However, you can also clock the Pico at 250Mhz (a MMB selectable option), use a "C-Sub" (C routine) or programme the PIOs (from MMB) for fast sampling speeds (and the PIOs are extremely fast!) if "speed" really is a problem for your application in practice.

My personal experience is that most embedded applications just sit in wait loops and that "run" speed is really not a problem. Of course, I am not trying to write databases or multi-user applications. I am trying to interface to the world in the simplest, most direct and quickest way possible. So 'run' speed is very rarely a problem for me. What is usually a problem is de-bugging code that isn't working - and (certainly in my case) that is where "speed" is really needed. This is really where MMB really scores in my view...but you have to try it to understand.

So - what speed problem does Bob have? Is his Arduino not running fast enough?

Or is he having problems getting it to work the way he wants it to?

Bob - as I said, a Picomite may (or may not) be your solution - BUT - the PicoMite is a tremendous bit of kit. It's based on MM Basic, which has been developed over years by some very clever people and is well supported by them too. Equally important, it is also very well documented.

The most recent Picomite version supports a simple filing system and callable program 'slots' - all using the on-board 2Mb of Pico 'flash' memory (and accessible from MMB). So you can data-log very simply just using a Picomite. If you need removable or more data storage, then an external SD card can provide it, again fully supported by MMB.

I have just acquired a 2.8" Waveshare LCD touch screen (with SD card holder) that a Pico(mite) simply plugs into. The display graphics, touch controls, SD card are all directly accessible from MMB. No external "Libraries" are required - the device support is already there. The Waveshare LCD touch display cost me less than £18 and (when combined with a Picomite) can deliver a very complete compute solution (see sample test graphic below). Of course, a simpler Picomite 'data-logger' would work just as well for your requirement

So, if you really can't get your Arduino to behave itself, there are other solutions available. If it helps you - here is Geoff Graham's 3-Channel Temperature Data Logger programme in MMB. All 29 Pico GP pins are available for this use BTW (except any dedicated to other devices of course)

Open "TemperatureLog.xls" for Output as #1

Do While Inkey$ = ""

Print #1, Date$ "," Time$ "," TEMPR(GP0) "," TEMPR(GP1) "," TEMPR(GP2)

Pause 400

Loop

Close #1

That's it! Not too complicated was it? The saved temperature data (on SD card) can be opened in Excel.

Anyway, if you would like further info on the PicoMite (Download the Manual, it's excellent) start here...

Geoff Graham - Picomite

Regards,

IanT

mmb windows control panel.jpg

03/01/2023 10:16:37

This may (or may not) be helpful Bob - but if you decide that your issue is S/W related, then possibly replacing the Arduino may be the solution. I am a long term user of Micromites (PIC32 based) and I am now enthusiastically moving over PicoMites, which are wonderful little devices, ideal for embeded use and (in my view) easier to debug than other simialr devices (such as Arduino).

'Mites' support a number of 'special' devies "in-language" (e.g. it's built in - no Libraries) and the DS18B20 is one of them. The software is free to download, the Pico costs very little and you already have the DS18B20s installed. Just a thought

Regards,

IanT

.....from the PicoMite Manual.

Measuring Temperature

The TEMPR() function will get the temperature from a DS18B20 temperature sensor. This device can be purchased on eBay for about $5 in a variety of packages including a waterproof probe version. The DS18B20 can be powered separately by a 3.3V supply or it can operate on parasitic power from the PicoMite as shown on the right. Multiple sensors can be used but a separate I/O pin and a 4.7K pullup resistor is required for each one. To get the current temperature you just use the TEMPR() function in an expression.

For example: PRINT "Temperature: " TEMPR(pin) Where 'pin' is the I/O pin to which the sensor is connected.

You do not have to configure the I/O pin, that is handled by MMBasic. The returned value is in degrees C with a resolution of 0.25 ºC and is accurate to ±0.5 ºC. If there is an error during the measurement the returned value will be 1000. The time required for the overall measurement is 200ms and the running program will halt for this period while the measurement is being made. This also means that interrupts will be disabled for this period. If you do not want this you can separately trigger the conversion using the TEMPR START command then later use the TEMPR() function to retrieve the temperature reading.

The TEMPR() function will always wait if the sensor is still making the measurement.

For example:

TEMPR START GP15

< do other tasks >

PRINT "Temperature: " TEMPR(GP15)

Thread: Green energy delays?
02/01/2023 17:36:51

Maybe in 15-20 years time we will also have sufficient base-load generation for those dark nights when the wind isn't blowing?

Regards,

IanT

Thread: Adept Articles
02/01/2023 17:17:21

Hmmmn - yes, I have some Mike.

Filing Rest (Stead), Dividing Head (Hughes) and Pocket Workshop (Aspin) are all Adept related.

Regards,

 

IanT

 

P.S.  PM me with your email if they are what you want...

Edited By IanT on 02/01/2023 17:25:56

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