Member postings for IanT

As others have commented, the motor/countershaft belt tension is fixed by having a slotted base and sliding the motor back & forth. The tension of the countershaft/lathe is set by the swing of the hinge and mine is simply set by a square wooden block under the motor that adjusts the angle used (and also takes the weight of the motor). I don't have my belts too tight, it causes excessive wear and if you have a dig-in (and you will) it's much nicer to have the belt slip. It's a small lathe and on my EW I only use HSS tools. If they are sharp, they will cut.

I've never actually worked out my EW speeds - but the motor-c/s pulley ratio is probably just under 3 to 1 (so somewhere in the 550rpm range) and the countershaft has three settings, the middle one being roughly neutral and the other two stepping up or down by about 200rpm I'd guess. I have a back-gear fitted but rarely use it on the EW.

You can make a more elaborate countershaft set-up with a toggle lever, which can also act as a simple clutch but the simple design works well enough and will get you turning sooner.

Regards,

IanT

Hello Andy,

Most of your turning will be done near the headstock, so don't worry too much about the gibs being tight at the tailstock end. It's a small lathe, so you don't need a huge motor (1460rpm, 1/4hp will be more than enough) but you will still need a countershaft - which is not hard to make if you can get your hands on some pulleys...

This is the "temporary" one I made for my EW over a decade ago - It's two bits of square tube, bolted together on a flat steel plate and hinged at the bottom (a heavy door hinge) to a wooden motor plate. Couple of pillow block bearings and a suitable shaft and you will be good to go. I'm still using a version of it...the wiring is a bit neater these days though...

You need the bearings to turn freely but not be too loose. Be careful when adjusting the headstock, you can crack the housing. Can't tell from the photo but it might be worth checking if you can fit new flanged Oilite bearings - in which case, I would not spit them but just use as supplied.

Have fun, take it easy and make sure nothing sticks out too much (the work, the tool and your fingers! )

Regards,

Ian

Edited By IanT on 05/07/2021 23:11:29

Well, as you well know Baz, things have changed at bit since the BBC Computer was around! 

I run MMB (DOS) on a five year-old Intel i5 laptop and this little MEW programme will typically list out all the potential gear combinations in under 30 seconds.

So to my mind, the old arguments about interpreter vs compiler performance don't really make that much practical difference these days - given the huge processor power available for very little money.

For example - my little ( £3.50! ) 'Mites' run an order of magnitude faster than a typical 1980's 8-bit computer. They require only a single external capacitor to build a complete running 'system' and have much more I/O and memory available onboard than any 8-bit user could have dreamed of back then. As Kiwi Bloke has already said, MMB also makes interfacing to the real world very simple, not least because MMB makes 'debugging' so much easier.

MMB fully supports common protocols such as I²C, asynchronous serial, RS232, IEEE 485, SPI and 1-Wire. These are not someelse's 'Libraries' (to be tacked-on or included) - they are simply part of the language.

So whilst I appreciate that others have very different expectations, skills and views to mine, I have a good solution for my 'compute' problems that works well and is affordable! So whether Python is a 'kludge' (or not) doesn't really matter in reality. You can argue the finer points of that with Dave)   

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 03/07/2021 12:05:21

Edited By IanT on 03/07/2021 12:06:42

Well Dave, when I first learned Basic some 40 years ago, I guess it was a beginners language for me.

If I was some 40 years younger and wanted to learn a programming language, then I'm sure Python would be an excellent choice. But I don't need to learn anything new, as I'm quite happy with MMB because it does everything that I need within a very convenient/affordable embedded package (e.g. MMB + PIC32 = Micromite).

I'm sure that Python is superior in many respects but (from my point of view) it lacks one essential feature - I've never learned it. Why do I need to learn another programming language, when I already have one that works just fine for my needs.

I'm also sure that most Pico owners will use the supplied s/w tools to programme it but if I ever need to upgrade from the PIC32170 chip, I now have an affordable migration path. I'm not really concerned what others will do with the Pico - just that I can now use it without any further major investment in my time.

With respect to the MEW gear-change programme, Mike Aireton chose to write it in Basic and I don't think I had to do very much (if anything) to get it to run on my PC using MMB. I used the programme recently to quickly remind myself about a gear combination I needed for my EW and I thought others might find it useful too. No algorithms required, no advanced computer theory - I just typed it in and it worked. Simple

Regards,

IanT

It does seem a little confusing when you first Google it Steve - but you have to look for the "Community" edition.

Solid Edge 2020 Community Edition

It's a free lifetime license, everything runs (& stores) locally on your PC (it's Windows only), so there are no 'cloud' issues to concern you and it's the full SE2020 product.

The only product 'limitations' per-se, are that files created with SE 'Community' cannot be opened by commercially licensed SE users (and vice versa I suspect) and drawings have a SE 'watermark' - neither of which will be a problem for most of us here I suspect. Other than that it has exactly the same power and feature set as the basic commercial 3D product from Siemens.

I'm not a 3D CAD expert but SE2020 seems to compare very well with other commercial 3D offerings. It's taken me a little while to get into "3D" CAD (which would probably have been true of other similar 3D CAD products too) but I didn't know a year ago that you could also use SE just in '2D mode'.

To do this you simply open a new 'Draft' document and then click on the 'Sketching' tab. You can then use the same drawing tools that you would normally use in 3D mode to create your 2D drawings. This should be a very useful half-way house if you want to try 3D eventually.

Before SE2020 - I was using what was essentially a 2D product (TurboCAD DL) and trying to migrate up to 3D using it. I finally gave up and jumped into the deep end with Solid Edge 2020 (3D) - but I think using SE in 2D mode and gradually learning how to migrate up to 3D might be a much easier route in - and everything is already there ready when you want to try.

Regards,

IanT

Steve, I'd save yourself £110 (+VAT) and try Solid Edge. I'm completely smitten with it now.

It's not what I did but you can get into SE very simply by just using it in 2D mode (e.g. 2D sketching in 'Draft' documents) and leave the more powerful 3D aspects until you need them. I know you already have some AutoCAD knowledge etc but SE is well worth considering in my view.

Regards,

IanT

Here is a very simple Change Wheel programme by Mike Aireton (originally published in MEW 277) that runs on my PC using Micromite Basic for DOS.

You can download MMB for DOS for free and it runs very well on my Win 10 laptop. It's a standalone .exe file so just fires up as required from a desktop icon and it's a very convenient, easy to programme resource to have available for a dummy like myself.

I generally use Notepad++ to edit small programmes. Just copy the text below into Notepad and save it as ' MEW277.BAS ' - then you can load the programme by typing LOAD "MEW277.BAS" in MMB.

You'll find the download at the bottom of this page

Micromite Basic (DOS)

Try it, you may find it useful.

Regards,

IanT

'
' Change Wheel Calculation
' by Mike Aireton - from MEW 277 Feb 2019
'
Cls
Input "Input required TPI ", W
Input "Input deviation ", Z
'
X = W + Z
Y = W - Z
'
For A = 20 To 75 Step 5
For B = 20 To 75 Step 5
For C = 20 To 75 Step 5
For D = 20 To 75 Step 5
'
If A = B Then GoTo SKIP
If A = C Then GoTo SKIP
If A = D Then GoTo SKIP
If B = C Then GoTo SKIP
If B = D Then GoTo SKIP
If C = D Then GoTo SKIP
'
' Assumes 8 TPI Leadscrew
'
If A*B*8/C/D < X And A*B*8/C/D > Y Then Print C;" "; D; " "; B;" ";A*B*8/C/D
'
SKIP:
Next D
Next C
Next B
Next A
'
Print "DONE!"
End

Edited By IanT on 02/07/2021 09:59:14

The clever people at the Backshed have made very good progress on getting Micromite Basic (MMB) onto the Pico (the 'PicoMite' ) and are now working on being able to programming the PIO channels from within a MMB programme. Most of this is very much over my head but it's interesting to watch others work their way through the puzzle.

PIO Channels on PicoMite

Meanwhile Geoff Graham has announced the second generation of the Colour Maximite 2 for any 'Retro' computer fans out there.

Colour Maximite 2 - Gen2

I'm still just using my smaller '170' Mites at the moment but it's good to have alternatives if or when I need them.

Regards,

IanT

I don't build in '0' Gauge Chris - but assuming the coupling rods are fairly simple in nature, I'd tend to go for silver steel (hardened) crankpins and 'soft' coupling rods.

The reason being that it will probably be easier to remove (and repair) the coupling rods (if indeed they do wear!) than remove and replace the crankpins. I wouldn't 'bush' them as such either. I think I'd try just brazing over the worn hole, filing it down flat and then re-drilling it back to the original size (easy if you keep & use the original drilling jig).

So, personally I'm with LBSC on this particular one - but I'm sure the G0 'Gurus' must have known what they were talking about too. In the end, you'll just have to take your pick!

Regards,

IanT

I've only broken two parting tools inserts and both times it was on interrupted cuts (e.g. square material). Other than the tool thickness (about 3mm), which tends to waste work material, my (rear mounted) insert parting tool works very well for larger diameter material. You do have to hold your breath and just 'go' straight in with it though.

For odd-shaped materials or smaller work, I also have a number of different sized HSS blades (and holders) and they generally work OK too - but when using them for deeper cuts, I do use the sideways-step method to maintain tool side clearance. Makes for a much more relaxed parting operation.

Regards,

IanT

Well, (obviously?) don't have have the tool (or work) sticking out any more than necessary.

But with a HSS parting tool, side clearance is often the real issue and the simple solution is to go in a short distance and then pull back, step over a very small amount and make the cut again but deeper (thereby making a wider cut that ensures good tool clearance). Keep cutting in, stepping back, then over and then back in again - going in by stages. This is a simple solution to parting off and works well for the 'ordinary' kind of HSS parting tool.

For deep cuts on larger diameters, I generally use an 'insert' parting tool that has a 'v' groove moulded into the top surface, which folds the swarf inwards (making it narrower). I can then go straight in - however, it's about 3mm wide, so can be quite wasteful in materiel. A much narrower HSS blade can part quite deeply and the 'step-over' method only needs a few extra thou to work well and so can still be economical on anything under 2" or so (e.g. a parting tool stick-out of 1" or less).

Try it, it takes the anxiety out of parting and just costs a little in extra waste material.

Regards,

IanT

Nigel, my current version of TurboCAD is D/L 16 and I still use it, mainly on my existing 2D drawings.

I purchased it from Paul at the Midlands Show a few years ago and at £20, it wasn't too expensive. I only upgraded because my earlier version (D/L15) was giving me warning errors on opening a file under Win10, although everything still worked OK. Provided you take time to learn the keyboard commands, TC/DL is a very good 2D product - which is what it has basically always been.

I have to say that I found it very hard to draw anything complex in 3D using TC/DL and Paul the CAD himself recommends using the TC 'Pro' version if serious 3D work is to be undertaken. The 'Pro' version of course being much more expensive. So I gave up trying to do 3D on TC/DL.

As I get used to Solid Edge, I think it will be likely that I will also use it for 2D work too. I can open a new 'draft' (2D) document, select the 'sketching' tab and use exactly the same drawing tools as I would use to sketch a 3D object (before extrusion) so it's already familiar.

I didn't use this 2D route into Solid Edge but I'm sure anyone would find SE (in 2D mode) just as easy as TC-2D to learn. Then when they eventually do need (or want) to go to 3D, they will already be using and have some experience of a tool that's designed for '3D' CAD. A very much better way to go 3D than with TC/DL in my experience.

Regards,

IanT

I've been using Solid Edge 2020 Community Edition for about a year now, having previously been a long term user of TurboCAD 2D.

As Clive states you can draft 2D drawings in Solid Edge 2020 CE by opening a 'draft' document and using the 2D sketching tools. SE is a very powerful tool and has no limitations on it's features (that I am aware of) except that drawings prepared with the Community Edition cannot be opened by the commercially licensed versions.

I can describe my use of a product like SE2020, as swimming in a very deep lake whilst simply trying to keep my head above water. I am reasonably fluent in 2D but 3D requires another level of thought. I am still trying to come to grips with some aspects and only slowly starting to appreciate the importance of 'constraints' and 'design intents'.

I am currently drafting a 3D model of a part-built Gauge '3' Midland Compound I own - for which I have not been able to find any existing plans. I've had a few frustrating evenings struggling to perform certain tasks small but in all cases it has been my lack of understanding, rather than any issues with SE2020. I'll attach an image of my progress on the front bogie - whilst also admitting that I've managed to get the frames on the wrong way around!

I would recommend SE2020CE to anyone who needs a powerful 2D/3D drawing tool and who doesn't like the idea of 'cloud' based software. It is a lifetime licence and runs and stores everything locally. It is Windows only (I use W10 on a 5year old i5 laptop) and has no CAM facility. It has produced useful designs for my 3D printer (e.g. PCB boxes) and as I have no CNC plans at the moment, CAM isn't an issue for me.

It's free, although not of course in terms of the time you need to invest in it but I think that will be true of any tool with these capabilities. In summary - I'm very happy with Solid Edge, it was a good choice for my 3D needs.

Regards,

IanT

Hi Nick,

If you don't have them already, fit locks to your slides and always lock the axis you are not moving - at the very least it will help prevent you accidently knocking a handle and moving something you didn't mean to.

If you have adjustable dials at both ends of your X-axis (and both my mills have) then Joe Pie has the solution you need for backlash - just watch this video (it makes more sense when he actually demos it btw)

Eliminate Backlash in the X-axis

Note that Joe also talks about 'climb' milling. If you have a a lightweight mill (and Joe doesn't) this is probably not something you should try...but the two-dial tip works well.

Regards,

IanT

I have a gas-fired BBQ which I don't use as much as my wife's Canadian cousins (one uses his in the dead of winter - it's sited right outside his kitchen door) but I think the main difference between using gas versus an (open) charcoal one (and I do still have a portable BBQ that uses charcoal) - is that I 'think' of the gas fired BBQ as an oven - and use it as such. Everything is well cooked/baked in it before it gets a final 'flash' directly on the bars. Charcoaled Bangers are a thing of the past.

Does it taste any better? Well I think so, provided several glasses of wine/beer are consumed in a shady spot prior to sitting down and consuming it.

Regards,

IanT

My Acorntools 7" shaper has a combination of oil cups and nipples - so certainly some Atlas shapers sold by Acorn Tools in the UK had cups fitted to them. I purchased a 20 litre can of ISO 32 oil some time ago and this gets used on all my machines except where something else is obviously required.

The front bearings on my Mk1 Super 7 uses a 'total loss' system and I believe that the ram on the shaper should be viewed in the exactly the same way - both getting daily doses of ISO32 oil.

Regards,

IanT

A slightly sideways thought Vic - I have an ER16 extension chuck (on a 20mm straight shaft) that I can hold in my E32 fitted tools to help with access/reach problems. It is obviously limited to 10mm diameter stock/tooling but it is very useful for that odd job where you can't quite reach the work for any reason.

I imagine it might be useable in place of the 'extended' ER32 chuck on your Turnado table (which is what I'm assuming you need it for). It won't hold above 10mm but it's not as expensive and also has other uses.

Regards,

IanT

For the first time in over 20 years, I was unable to attend the Gauge '3' Society's AGM & Show this weekend at Flitwick. However, another Member recorded this short video of some of the running sessions on the outside track, as well as some of the Trade stands present inside the hall.

From what I can gather, the members of both the Society and the public who attended had a very enjoyable day. It's good to start getting back to some normality after such a long lockdown.

Thank you William for sharing the video.

The Gauge '3' Society AGM & Show - Flitwick 29th May 2021

Regards,

IanT

I know there are other readers here who also use Micromite Basic in some form, be that on the Maximite family of SBCs or in it's many Micromite forms.

I have a number of 'Mites' based on the PIC32MX170 chip that cost me about £3.50 each and give a fully self contained and very capable embedded 'compute' solution in a single 28pin DIL package. My PIC32 Mites have been fast enough for my needs but others use faster SBCs running ARM chips. All of them run Micromite Basic (MMB) which has been developed and improved over the past decade by the (very active) MMB community.

They are now in the process of developing MMB for the Raspberry Pico and it already has some of the more recent language features developed for the very fast Colour Maximite 2 over the past year or so.

I am well aware that there are already many other language/IDE choices available for Raspberry Pico and I'm not going to debate their relative merits because frankly they don't matter to me. I have found MMB to be a very friendly and productive environment for my needs and that's all that matters to most MMB users. It's supported by a relatively small but very active user community at the Back Shed and that seems to work well for me too.

The Pico will provide me with an inexpensive alternative to the PIC32-170 with more memory and therefore room for some of the recent CMM2 language extensions. Knowing what the MMB community has already achieved with other platforms, I'm also sure that more Pico specific features will also probably emerge over time but it's already very capable.

An initial description of the MMB based Pico can be found here and I think other MMB/Mite users will also find it interesting, as it builds on what we already have.

Initial description of MMB on Raspberry Pico - The BackShed

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 28/05/2021 10:23:29

Same is true of a Keats Plate I purchased - a bit annoyed when I finally got around to using it and thought "I'd better check it, just in case". It's on the TUIT list....