Member postings for ega

Dennis WA:

Thanks for identifying Malcolm and setting out his advice.

Presumably by "crescent wrench" he means C spanner.

From Ernest Joyce's Funiture Making:

"For the drawing of long sinuous or continuous curves a spline made from thin plywood, cut so that the grain of the outer skin lies across the width of the spline, is indispensable. It is a two-man job to use it."

Perhaps father and grandfather did it together!

This addresses the point that the "batten" needs to bend evenly if geometric accuracy is needed.

The wheel nuts on some cycles are 15 mm AF. Inconvenient because most 1/4" square drive socket sets stop at 13 mm.

That M12 nut retains the wheel on a Creusen bench grinder.

Mike Poole:

Some time ago I came across an "Allen" screw with a five-sided recess. This design may be intended to be tamper-proof.

I mostly use the low range on my S7 but - excuse my ignorance - don't know which Malcolm you are referring to (is he a hot gospeller?)

I think it would help to know how long you run for before getting warm to the touch: the manual for a different lathe with taper roller bearings specifies an hours' running by when the housings should not be "too hot to the touch".

It seems that metric AF sizes also vary eg an M12 nut encountered today which takes an 18 mm spanner rather than the normal 19.

Hear, hear!

By way of further clarification, both left and right hand threads on the Graduate also have a short plain register ie not threaded to shoulder. This arrangement has the interesting advantage that chucks can be made to fit both ends of the spindle by machining both left and right hand threads in the same backplate.

Yes, indeed. Harrisons offered 355 mm dia aluminium "faceplates" with left hand thread which were actually sanding discs for the outboard sanding attachment.

The screws on my Record no 4 are 5/16" BSW.

I long ago replaced the slotted head screws with hex recess screws and took the opportunity to drill the replacements axially to allow the rapid location of jaw liners in various materials.

"The Talbot used an interesting rocker design as well:"

Again, the aim seems to have been to reduce the reciprocating weight; I notice that the valves were waisted, too.

Was the Talbot a Georges Roesch design?

Russell Eberhardt:

Your method sounds similar to the Tubal Cain method I mentioned earlier (my description of it was not very good).

The fish-bellied push rods remind me of Bugatti's banana-shaped tappets.

Just a thought: if the tins are directly geared together some will turn one way and some the other. I imagine this would be a problem so far as the music is concerned.

Extract from The Workbench Book by Scott Landis:

"The handle is secured by cold-forging both ends"

Doesn't Tubal Cain recommend making these by allowing the rod to give under the turning tool in the middle? ie take advantage of the flexibility of the work to achieve the desired result.

I will try to find the reference.

Got it: page 53 of his WPS 28 Simple Workshop Devices.

Edited By ega on 06/10/2017 17:39:04

"Hacksaw", etc: I have done the same myself.

I think there is a video somewhere showing how Record vices are/were made and seem to recollect that the blobs on the handle are formed from the bar (the Woden equivalent was done differently, I think)

Edited By ega on 06/10/2017 17:28:13

There is a useful HSE guide "Safety in the use of abrasive wheels" which says "Bench grinders should be securely anchored to a stout bench".

Congratulations to you for making those pigs ears behave!

A parting tool made from a file should probably be suitably heat treated since a dig in might well otherwise cause it to fracture.

Andrew Tinsley:

It was good to hear from someone who has used both the Dickson and GHT fourway toolposts. I have no experience of the former but the change between the four tools on the GHT is virtually instantaneous. One of these days I will do a proper test to see whether the repeatability of mine is anything like the impressive results he achieved.

One of GHT's reasons for favouring the fourway over the QCTP was that in his day he found that few QCTP users had the large number of holders which is common in these more affluent times.

Robbo:

Thanks for the additional information.

I got my Taylor chuck out from the back of the cupboard and checked it for any sign of yellow paint - not a scrap, but it seems like a good idea to apply some.

My chuck is the 4.5" four jaw self centring type with gripping surfaces on both sides of the jaws and weighs about 4.5 KG without backplate which makes it significantly heavier than any of the chucks in use with the Myford. Weight apart, there is the extra overhang that the Taylor design involves; when considering using it I wondered about incorporating the register and thread within the chuck body and dispensing with a backplate but opted to get a TOS brand 4J SC instead.