Member postings for ega

KWIL:

My Willson is indeed noisy, particularly by comparison with the Myford. Any significant noise reduction would therefore be welcome. My only experience of the type is with my own machine and I take some comfort from the thought that mine may be no noisier than the rest!

By belt noise, do you mean the noise directly emanating from the drive? I expect this is minimal but I had in mind possible additional noise from the gears in the headstock. I will try running the lathe with one belt removed to see whether this makes any perceptible difference.

Meantime, my thanks to all those who made helpful comments.

Clive Foster:

Thank you for taking the trouble to list the contents of Volume 3; I shall put a note to that effect with my Volume 1.

One can only guess as to why the date was omitted at the earlier stage although they do include Caxton's own date of 1474 and an emphatic statement about the British origins of the binding, etc of the work! The second and third volumes more or less "book-ended" WWII and I wonder how far the wartime advances were reflected in Volume 3.

As to your good point about who wrote what, the note in my 1950 copy of the companion work Toolroom Practice says that Mr Judge wrote some of the chapters and had Messrs W Cooper, F E Dean and R Harries do the rest.

Incidentally, a J A Oates AMIPE, M Inst Met, wrote the MAP handbook Welding and Cutting; slightly different spelling but he might be your fourth edition writer.

One advantage of the dedicated rear parting off toolpost is that it can be set nicely square and left in place undisturbed for use when needed.

Front or back it is sometimes possible to face the workpiece and refer the p/o blade directly to the work.

I have the same work published by Caxton less the third volume, again undated but other related works by the same publisher are from around the late 1940s.

What's in the third volume, please?

duncan webster:

Thank you. I love those co-respondent clogs!

JasonB:

Did you use tailstock support and if so at what stage did you retract the centre?

When I commissioned my Willson slant bed I lathe fitted what I understood were matched A section vee-belts of the appropriate length. Chalking a line across the two belts and then running the lathe for a few minutes, however, suggests that one of the pair is getting ahead of the other.

I gather that this phenomenon can make the lathe noisier than if the belts kept in step and that link belting is recommended as a cure.

The phenomenon is perhaps surprising as I would expect both belts to be equally taut on the tight side of the run.

Have others had this problem and have they recommendations about it, including more radical solutions like poly-vee and timing belts, please?

Duncan Webster:

Could you share the Stockport clog maker's details?

I used to drive in mine but I would not do so today; then again, some like to drive in bare feet.

Assuming that the tool is indeed advancing at right angles, you could try swapping out the tip; the present one may be cutting unequally across its width. Difficult to say from the photo but it should be examined critically under a lens.

Another way of gaining extra height is to wear clogs with thick soles and heels; they are said to be good for standing on hard floors too.

A search against CBN in the top right box yields two relevant threads.

Ian S C:

Stirring stuff! You do wonder about a capacitor that failed so dramatically *and* which was apparently ineffective when in use.

The treadle machines must have been easier to use than the hand crankers.

Neil Wyatt:

I'm seriously considering that multimeter. Can anyone confirm its capacitance capability? I noted the capacitor symbol on the dial.

The mention of RF interference suggests the "method" of turning on the radio and noting the quality of the reception!

I remember being unpopular a long time ago when running a pre-war Austin Seven with unsuppressed plug leads.

I am happy to report that, thanks to the helpful replies to my post and, in particular, to John Haine who very kindly sent me a replacement capacitor, the Jones is now working.

I am, therefore, confident that the problem was a failed capacitor; is there, I wonder, an accepted and accessible way of testing these? My initial, unscientific, diagnosis was based on smell and the burnt-looking spot on the casing of the original device.

Howard Lewis:

Interesting that your motor is hard wired to the pedal rather than being connected via a socket. Incidentally, there was an earlier thread with suggestions for re-purposing the mechanical components of an old machine.

I will post the result of trying the replacement capacitor in due course and in the meantime will be taking in your article in the current MEW.

Someone, I think, mentioned that packaging also degrades which reminds me that my RTD liquid's plastic bottle developed a split and it had to be decanted into another container.

Not sure if Rocol has been decoded as Ragosine Oil Co Ltd; RTD is, of course, ream, tap, drill.

An acquaintance of mine insisted on referring to the sell by, etc date as the "death date". I thought it best to go along with this and never gathered whose death she had in mind!

PS like others, I am still using the RTD paste and fluid bought many years ago and am shocked by the price of the modern item. My tin of the former seems to have no date on it.

Edited By ega on 03/10/2018 23:19:54

Edited By ega on 03/10/2018 23:21:00

Howard Lewis:

Many thanks for the offer (I saw your old post and wondered if you had found a taker). John Haine, however, is kindly sending me a capacitor which I hope will solve my problem.

As a matter of interest, does your motor have an integral socket? I actually have a spare motor with this feature bought with GHT's UPT in mind but have never fitted it. Unfortunately, the Jones has a separate socket and fitting the spare would involve undesirable complication so I am hoping that the capacitor is all that is required.

Neil Wyatt et al:

As to snubbers, I am "none the wiser but so much better informed" and, as I say, hoping to get by with the capacitor!

John Haine:

Many thanks; I have sent you a PM.

Someone asked for a photo of the capacitor and I have put one in my Miscellaneous album (at the end).

John Rudd and SOD:

No sooner asked than answered - thank you!

Neil: so far as I could see when dismantling, the capacitor is wired across the neutral lead to the motor and the live lead to the lamp but this does not take into account what goes on in the foot switch.

Thanks again for the helpful suggestions which I will pursue.

Incidentally - sign of the times - the Jones was made in Taiwan and my Singer replacement is a Brazilian!

Edited By ega on 03/10/2018 16:58:58