Member postings for Gone Away

I used cutters like these which were fine for my purposes on a similar job.

(There are numerous vendors selling them in several sizes)

The domed ones sound more like fillister heads which might be slightly more available than cheese heads (but not much probably).

If you can get fillister heads, the dome is not great and you could potentially turn it off to make a cheese head without much height loss.

" 10-32 fillister " netted a number of hits on the ca and us ebay sites and a few on the uk site. (Beware the infamous "Customs services and international tracking provided" ).

As Jason says, they are not called 3/16 UNF but rather #10-32 UNF (nominal OD is actually 0.190" ).

Also, if you are searching for "cheese head" I think you may be unlucky. Try "pan head" instead.

Living in Canada, these things are ubiquitous but I understand you may have problems in the UK. If all else fails, you could try eBay .... I've got hard to find hardware from there a few times.

Edited By OMG on 29/06/2014 14:37:38

Teach-In 2014 does at least fit the reasonable content expectation of a magazine entitled "Model Engineers Workshop". The fact that it's somewhat poorly done is another issue entirely. (The use of expressions such as ' .005 thou ' must have beginners climbing the wall I should think).

Oh, I don't know Neil. I could imagine a few editors who might be interested in the views of people who have stopped subscribing. Even more so perhaps than the views of those subscribers who, in knee-jerk fashion, agree with everything the editor says or does, no matter what.

Your use of the term "home engineer" (not model engineer) is interesting.

Here we go again - how many times has this been done here? Someone points out that a particular article doesn't appear to fit the magazine's "mandate" (as implied by the magazine's title) and gets labelled with the attitude "if I don't like it I don't want it in the mag". This is all in your head, not mine.

I too have seen plenty of articles in the past that do nothing for me but wouldn't dream of complaining on that basis since they were obviously appropriate content. I imagine the same is true for most people here. Big deal.

I think Keith hit the nail on the head .... remove the "Model" from the title. (Of course you may stand to lose as many subscribers from the Model Engineering community as you gain from the vehicle builders and others).

Edited By OMG on 25/06/2014 21:53:46

And really fits the magazine title ..... yes, I see.

"Transferable information" seems to be the old self-serving chestnut that there may be the odd paragraph buried among the irrelevance that might be of some interest to some model engineers somewhere. That could be said about virtually any topic one can think of. Slippery slope seems to me.

What the hey. I've bailed anyway.

> Renowned expert Ken Sprayson gives advice on motorcycle frame building

Why?

Yours might be. The one in my kitchen sure isn't. As I recall, when I bought it the blurb said it was "green" (energy reduced) which might make it "slightly" noisier than earlier models.

Harborfreight (not Harbourfreight ) stuff is generally cheap in both senses of the word which is why I queried what Ian had in mind. But yes, there are certainly bargains to be had. And they're all over the US, not just Florida.

It can be worth joining their emailing list before you go to get their coupon specials sent to you. They'll spam you unmercifully with those but will turn them off OK when you later unsubscribe. The only thing is that they seem to detect your IP and only send them to US subscribers so you may have to spoof the IP or subscribe when you get there.

Edited By OMG on 22/06/2014 18:55:12

There are several Harborfreight Stores in the area .... although that might not be what you have in mind.

Having modified mine (spindexer) per your post (for which thank you very much), you'd have thought that I would realise that too .... but I didn't

This is a spin-indexer right?

This re-machining involved a strip-down which might have helped, Geoff, but it seems that Bogs has moved the pictures. Perhaps he will see this and take pity on you.

Failing that, if you PM me with an email address, I think I have a print-to-pdf of the original that I could send you.

Just a further note: if you are talking about the typical 4 x 6 bandsaw, the height of the stock will be well above the normal height limit for the saw (particularly after you've got it in the drill-vice). I have some doubts about how effective the saw will be in that case ..... at least be prepared to wait a long time.

Of course, if you have the luxury of a really big machine .....

I've read that 3 times and I'm still not sure what you want to do. Could be me though.

First, I assume you're mixing dimensions and the piece is 6" dia and 30 mm thick. I assume (again) that you want to cut the 30 mm dimension in half (i.e. not cutting across a diameter). I also assume you're talking about a horizontal metal-cutting bandsaw (not the vertical, woodworking variety). But what's the bit about holding the aluminum in a drill press and holding the drill press in the bandsaw "chuck"?

Do you mean you want to hold it (across the flat sides) in the drill press vice and then hold that that vice in the bandsaw vice? That won't work on a couple of grounds. Mostly you're clamping the aluminum on both sides of the final cut .... in effect, squeezing the cut together and pinching the blade. Also, normal drill-press vice is too low profile to adequately hold the metal for cutting. That would be made worse by the fact that you'd have to raise it in that vice to avoid sawing the vice itself.

I've done similar operations by holding the cylinder of metal in a lathe chuck, then holding that in the bandsaw chuck .... but those were a much smaller diameter and I doubt it could be successfully done on a piece this big (even if you had a lathe chuck that big).

Needs a bit of thought. Don't ignore wood (knocked together wooden jigs) as a means to hold difficult pieces. Can you allow any fixing holes in the piece?

Apologies in advance if I've misunderstood what you're trying to do.

Hmm .... for me #741 is the top post on Page-1. Your link, Joe, leads me to Page-62 and the earliest messages.

i haven't checked but it probably depends on personal settings - whether you sort newest or oldest messages to the front (and what the default is for guests). Whatever, Post #741 is the one to look for.

Steve Ward has just posted here (top post on page-1) that he has modified the design slightly, updated the files and has new PCB's in stock.

Thanks, Neil. I checked the link and the "savings" is still over 18% more than I paid last year (£29.99). It's better than the £47.95 that the website was quoting for renewals last September (perhaps someone had a fit of good sense) but still .....

FWIW, my pension increase in the same period was ~0.9%

If I can build one and get it to work, Les, you certainly can. I pretty much did it from scratch ... etched and drilled the PCB and programmed the PIC.

It was a while ago but as I recall, the only problematic thing was actually finding the PIC.

This might help.

I built one and it works well.