Member postings for Michael Malleson

Well, being non-mathematical I can only go by what is provided in the drawing, both Hemingway and Prof. Chaddocks original, so when I come to do the job I will decide to what accuracy I want to work. I'm not building complex aero engines needing miron level tolerances.

Thanks for all the comments,

Mike.

Thanks for all the helpful replies. The Hemingway version for the rocking levers has two concentric screws making up a differential screw arrangement of 30:32 ratio. When holding the screw, 30 tpi, and turning the nut, 32 tpi, increments of 0.0001" can be made. Hence the need for 30 tpi taps and dies. However, the original Prof.Chaddock arrangement is for a single 32 tpi thread with a locking nut.

So I suppose the choice is mine, with Clive Brown 1's 40 tpi being another option. It all depends on the accuracy I want to achieve.

Michael.

I am building the Hemingway Quorn Tool and Cutter grinder. A 5/16" x 30 tpi tap and die is needed for the Differential Nut on the Rocking Lever. Has anyone bought these for this job and no longer needs them, and can I buy them from you ?

Michael Malleson.

Hi Stephen.

I see that you had to import your Quaser LS light. Where did you buy it as my best search wanted £58 shipping !! Otherwise the cost of the lamp is similar acros several suppliers. Regards, Mike.

Thanks everyone so far, most helpful. One thing I forgot to ask was about curing times and temperatures as , again, most sources of information are not vey clear on this part of the process. Mike.

I need help in using this filler. The Packet says bring the coated parts together when the surfaces become tacky. this can take quite a a long time. Other sources say bring the coated parts together after 20 minutes. What are ME website users experience with this product to produce a Steam and Pressure tight joint, in my case, 90 psi and 160 degres celcius ? Any suggestions will be most welcome. Thanks, Mike.

The contact wheel on my belt grinder has perished and is disintegrating. Can anyone recommend a firm who can supply me with a new one or renew the contact surface ? Internet searching has not come up with anything useful.

Waiting in hope !! Mike Malleson.

Thanks Ron, I'll follow that up.

Many thanks, Mike

As you can see, the Coat of Arms on the wheel splashers on my 7 1/4" gauge 'Gooch' need renewing. Can anyone tell me where I can obtain replacement transfers or stickers ?

Mike

Try washing up liquid and some granulated sugar, works a treat !

Mike

Sugar !

Mick.

Do both. I did years ago and have had absolutely no rust or comfort problems ever since.

Mike.

P.S. It's not Araldite for plastics, It's Loctite All Plastics, works very well.

Mike.

Hi All. An update on repairing Britains models. The broken part in question was in fact made of die cast metal, zinc/aluminium/ magnesium/ copper mixtures known as Zanak or Mazak, very difficult to stick anything to. My solution after much internet reasearch and asking around was to file close fitting faces, degrease with Loctite 7063 degreaser, abrade gently, re-degrease and then use Hafix Glue. Google Loctite 7063, the cheapest is £9.99 inc. postage, and go to the Hafix website as the only suppliers. Araldite now have glue they claim will stick almost any plastic !

Hi Mick. as you are probably aware, condensation is your biggest enemy. So, in the immortal words of Tony Blair, "insulate, insulate, insulate ; dehydrate, dehydrate, dehydrate. " Leave a small dehumidifier running all the time on a mid range setting and empty regularly. I haven't had a spot of rust in 10 years. Very cheap to run and being dry you will feel warmer with less heat.

Mike.

Update for Dusty. The Loctitie Plastics Glue seems to have bonded brass to the plastic in question, so thanks for the tip. Next problem is, what will stick to the zinc/ aluminium/ magnesium alloy that is also used in Britains toys ? Ordinary two part epoxy just doesn't stick and a lot of net research has come up blank, loads of complex adhesive information involving toxic chemicals but no really practical solutions, will the broken tractor have to be consigned to the scrap heap, ' my grandson's kingdom for the right glue' to paraphrase Richard III !!!

Thanks for all the hints and tips. Loctite Plastix sounds like it's worth a punt as the broken bit in question is very small. I quite like being the 'toys repair man', lots of brownie points as Dusty says.

Next step "bicycle repair man " !!

Mike

Not exactly model engineering, but Grandfatherly duties demand repairs on my grandson's Britains agricultural toys. (made in China !) Can anyone recommend a suitable glue which will bond satisfactorily with these types of plastic ? Rory will be eternally grateful for an answer for his Grandad !! Where can I buy such a glue ?

Mike

Hi Brian.

I followed your directions and have a motor on order, so now I can make a start on the steam raising blower, what all miniature loco people call them ! Many thanks. It's for a 7 1/4" William Dean Armstrong Class 4-4-0 "Gooch", the most beautiful express passenger loco ever built (see J.N Maskeleyne, A Further selection of Locomotives I Have Known p. 36) !!!

Thanks Neil for your helpful comments, I will follow up breakeryard site for future use.

Mike

I am interested in making the Steam Raising Blower described by Brian Baker in recent Model Engineer magazines. However, a comprehensive internet search has failed to find a 12 volt fan motor suitable for a 7.25" loco as featured in Part 2. can you, Brian, or anyone else please advise where I can buy such a motor. Many thanks, Mike