Member postings for ChrisH

I have an Adapt 2 shaper - looking at the pics I do see a ceratin similarity there, so could be an Adapt 1

Chris in good ol' Pommieland

Bob - thanks for the heads up. Sounds like sharp practice.

Will conclude my family tracing and cancel the subscription and also cancel the direct debit at my bank at the same time.

Chris

larry you are NOT alone! I sometimes see my bench, when I'm having a clear up and clear out day, but other days.........

Thanks for all the responses - it being a nice day have been totally tied up in gardening and then the first barbie of the season, so sorry for no reply until now.

Some very interesting replies, and a nice trick with the to size drill with the corners stoned off, might try that.

Have taken all that has been said on board and will rethink the method application in the morning, too tired now!

Chris

Agreed Jason, but the bar is about an inch down in a block and will be mounted on the mill table. Just concerned that I would be able to accurately achieve that using the mill's boring bar, hence the easier option of a drill so the question remains.

I could try a setup on the lathe if I could hold the assembly in the four jaw and set it up to run true, easier to set up true on the mill, I'm certainly more confident of accuracy in boring on the lathe.

I have also tried a 10mm end mill to fo the final (skim) cut, but with the same result as the drills, 10+thou over.

Chris

PS      Plus I don't have a reamer and reluctant to buy one just now!

Edited By ChrisH on 24/04/2021 10:30:31

Putting a bracket ) after a " and I get a winking smilie when the post is posted, not what I wanted! Why is that?

I have a need to accurately drill a 10mm diameter hole transversely in a 16mm diameter bar. Actually, a hole a few thou under 10mm would be ideal. 25/64th inch is 0.3906", 0.003" under, so possibly ideal.

However. I was concerned that it would not drill accurately - my 10mm diameter drill drilled a hole nigh on 0.014" (0.35mm) bigger than 10mm - so I did a trial.

I have a stub of 20mm bar so set that up on the drill and drilled progressively holes of diameters 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and finally 25/64", starting with a centre drill and using a pecking technique rather than just blasting through. From 1/4" and upwards I measured each hole diameter with an inside mic; the 1/4" hole was 0.0025" oversize, the 5/16" hole 0.003" oversize, the 3/8" hole a whopping 011" oversize and the 25/64 hole 0.006" oversize.

So the 25/64, far from being 0.003" in theory under 10mm ends up 0/003" over 10mm.

Question is, are these tolerances the norm (not really bothered to check before) or would a better quality drill be more accurate?

And would getting a 9.8mm - 0.3858" - drill on the basis that if it drilled few thou oversize as expected it would end up roughly where I want it to be, be a good option, or would a high quality drill drill more accurately, and if so, what make is recommended?

All my drills are bog standard HSS drills of no particular parentage BTW.

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 24/04/2021 10:18:20

Edited By ChrisH on 24/04/2021 10:19:11

I use a 0-2" dial indicator (as in Andrews post above) on an adjustable rod to measure carriage travel towards the headstock on my lathe. It has always been spot on for me with no errors noted.

Chris

I first went into Axminster Tools in Axminster in about 2008 after I moved down to Somerset.

Since that time they have been steadily running down the engineering side with less and less available every time I went in (and seemingly to me putting the prices up on what they did sell) and concentrating on tools and stuff to use on that brown stuff, so not surprised that the engineering courses are to end/have ended.

I stopped going into Axminster Tools about 18months ago because of that. No point.

Chris

Tug - you mentioned two phases in your last post that I missed when I commented on using JB Weld - "if done properly" and "fully cure". They are the important bits!

Chris

Nice work Tug - most impressive construction for the cylinders. Not only have you made the lot look like a real casting, but I am sure the JB Weld used will hold well and is a good construction material. I know you want to run the engine only on air, so heat doesn't come into it, but even on steam I fell sure JB Weld would be good.

I would hazard a guess that most model engineers, running this engine on steam, would only use steam at about 150psi max; (though probably a bit less, 100-125 psi maybe, maybe as low as 80psi) at 150psi the saturated steam temp is only around 350ish deg.F, (358 to be pedantic at 150psi!). Given that the Original JB Weld is able to withstand 550 deg.F and even at 200 psi the saturated steam temp is only about 380deg.F, so there is a fair degree of leeway in there temp-wise, even allowing for a fair degree of superheat, so yes, technique used is good to go!

Know what you mean about garden work, on the case myself, but looking forward to your next instalment whenever that is.

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 15/03/2021 14:01:00

I think it all depends on whether we are looking at "number" or "items" as to whether we use "is" or "are".

There is an argument that says that "items" is the subject in that sentence. If that were the case then "numbers" just refers to the items in the same ways as we could say "some of the items", in which case the use of "are" is correct.

Just suggesting!!

+1 for that

I bought a Warco 'Economy' Mill/Drill, one of the last they sold about 7 or 8 years ago, forget when exactly - think RF25 mill/drill for comparison. That weighted about the same, a tad over 200kg I seem to remember.

It had to go into my shed then up onto a solid built wooden bench 900mm off the deck, so I did exactly what you are proposing - took the motor off, then the head, then the table which left just the base and the column and its base. I would have taken the column and its base off as well had I been on my own but my daughter was staying with us so she helped me lift what remained onto the bench, then I reassembled it.

Gave me a good insight into how it was built and I could check on a few things as I reasembled it too.

So definitely doable!!

Good luck,

Chris

Thanks Tug, what you say about the slip joint clearance & JBW was what I had imagined but it was nice to have the confirmation having not done it yet.

Re the bores I was thinking maybe if acute attention was paid to the turning then honing may not be necessary, I hope so!

Cheers, Chris

Nice work Tug - just a quickie, what clearance do you give in the slip joints that are then filled with JBW? And are the cylinder bores just fine turned to diameter or did you hone them as well?

Chris

Our machine is also of Turkish origin - a Beko, despite vowing never to buy a Beko as they had a record of bursting into flames at one time.

Manual written in English one can understand, but to try and find one particular piece of information - say what all the pretty little icons on the display panel all mean for example - is very laborious to say the least.

There are three levels of dryness available we have discovered, extra dry, cupboard dry and iron dry. What each level of dryness precisely means I am not sure, but seeing as how we stopped ironing anything as soon as we retired 14 years ago the iron dry level is never going to be used.

You can also set the dryer to run for a certain period of time, it would seem from playing with the settings, but I've not read that in the manual. Mind you, it's a plus point that 1. we have a manual and 2. we can nearly understand it.

It's a seemingly clever little machine with lots of features buried in the manual and not clearly and readily visible, therefore you don't really know what you are doing until you have thoroughly mastered the manual, why do manufacturers have to make things so difficult, instead of applying a little thought to the process and marking the dials to clearly identify the process. For example, one wash programme is called Down Wear. What does that do? Well according to that manual we figured it mean we could wash clothing that contains feathers, but doesn't say what temperature it runs at. Another programme says Hand Wash. This is for washing woollen clothes apparently, but again doesn't say at what temperature. Why not say Wollens? To be fair the machine does select a temperature and you can alter it down if required. I think!

Chris

The text is probably missing a word like 'top', as in top dead centre (or even bottom dead centre).

3 days ago our washer dryer died - we don't have room for both machines seperate. Screen dead. In the middle of a wash. Died for no apparent reason. But it's electic, has wires coming out of it so not to be totally trusted. No power getting past whatever is the first bit it comes to in the machine. All looked good inside the machine, no dangling disconnected leads or dodgy smelling bits. Chance of trouble shooting that is as remore as a new car under bonnet problem.

It was an Ikea machine, so probably made by Whirlpool or Electrolux, bought partly because Ikea stuff comes with 5 year guarentees, this one had lasted over 10 so had probably done well by modern standards. Up to it failed it had been working perfectly, and all seemed super inside, probably what failed was some little electronic bit that costs about tuppence/ten thousand.

So new machine ordered next day, and day after it arrived. All installed and working so back in the dhobi business again, but this machine was supplied with a manual, so much stuff these days isn't. Mind you, the text is small, tricky to read and it takes for ever to read too, and then you find you have to learn a complete new way of working the machine and washing process.

There was this little light that kept flashing - the bluetooth icon. It appeared that it would connect with my mobile phone if I wanted. Going back to the OP - why on earth would I want to do that for, why was that thought a desirable option to fit.? As the OP said, you have to go to the machine to load it. So why would I want to then go and sit down in another room and the start it over the phone. Crazy

Luckily, the manual also told me which button to hold down for 3 seconds to make it disappear!

Chris

I also started with a 3 axis display on the mill but only scales on the X and Y, but soon added the Z when the opportuntity arose, and wouldn't be without it.

I believe at one time Warco said one couldn't fit a scale on their round column mills, but I managed to fit one on mine - where there's a will there's a way!!

CHris