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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Milling Tools
29/11/2009 07:17:04
Hertel is the maker, not the type. and yes as far as I can tell they are FC3s
 
If you want some very reasonably priced milling cutters try these can't beat them for general work or use on castings to save risking the Dormers on a hard spot.
 
Jason
Thread: myford boxford or colchester
28/11/2009 17:23:19
I tend to leave my lathe on the 50-950 range a sthe slower speed is more useful than the high I can get in the 100-1900 range.
 
Yes the Maximat is also good, having had a Emcomat 8.6 for 20yrs I can vouch for Emco quality. You just don't see many about
 
Jason
Thread: Boring an Engine Cylinder
28/11/2009 16:41:59
Its not hard to make a between ctrs bar out of a bit of say 1" bar, cross drill oor a 1/4" HSS toolbit and retain with a grub screw, you can stop teh 1/4" hole short and thread the remainder so a screw can be used to advance the tool bit. Thats how I did the cylinder for my Hit and Miss engine.
 
The faceplate is another option, you can just use any angle iron and some clamps, bit like this cylinder thats about the same size as yours. I used a bit of 5/8 bar and machined the end to take a carbide insert to give me a stiff boring bar.
 
Jason
Thread: myford boxford or colchester
28/11/2009 13:02:01
You can get the Bantum 1600 which has a two speed motor so you get twice as many speeds from the same box with the fastest being 1600.
 
And the Mk II can be had in 800, 1600 and 2000
 
And the Mk III went to 2000 and was basically a rebadged Harrison M250
 
Bit more spec here
 
Jason
 
PS I'd go for the Bantum pref Mk2 or 3

Edited By JasonB on 28/11/2009 13:03:48

Thread: Milling Tools
28/11/2009 07:27:10
Have a look at J&L for cutting tools, they do a large range of Dormer drills, taps, mills etc will also have a moore & wright tri-square (not set square)
 
Their Hertel disposable milling cutters are also good value, especially iof you wait for a pro-mo, I just stocked up as they had 35% off.
 
Its a bit hard to search the site but if you click the virtual catalogue thats easy to flick through, also worth ordering the paper catalogue which is about 2" thick.
 
 
 
And talking of ball race shells, there was an interesting bit in MEB, the guy used what looked about a 9" dia shell when tramming his mill, it allows a DTI to be revolved buy hand without it dipping into the tee slots
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 28/11/2009 07:29:30

27/11/2009 13:11:30
I'd add a dial test indicator and magnetic stand. You will need that to set the vice true to the table and also to set up work that is clamped to it.
 
I've not had a problem with the clamping sets, if you are loading them to such an extent that they fail you will be risking your mill table.
 
I' opt for an electronic edge finder rather than wobbler, the one greenwood tools do will fit a 1/2" chuck or collet
 
You will also want a drill chuck as its easier when using the machine for drilling.
 
Jason
Thread: model engine builder
26/11/2009 20:27:09
Its 5 issues a year (approx), if you click the subscribe button on their site it will tell you.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 26/11/2009 20:28:29

26/11/2009 19:47:00
Don't think so, I've subscribed since the start. Never had problems paying with CC through their site
 
Jason
Thread: Ball Turning
25/11/2009 16:44:43
I made mine from plans on the web of the Bedair type. The site has pdf drawings, how to make articles and a video of it in action.
 
I altered mine to take a carbide insert that can be mounted for concave as well as convex turning.
 
This is mine doing the concave cuts on a conrod
 
Jason
Thread: square holes
22/11/2009 19:55:34
There are a few pics of a slotting tool and the bit used to make a sq hole on this page belonging to a fellow Fowler builder, though I just used a sq needle file to do the same part.
 
You could just drill a round hole with a diameter equal to the diagonal of your tool bit.
 
Jason
Thread: workshop and tooling requirements
22/11/2009 16:57:37
Thats right
 
Centre height is centre of lathe spindle to lathe bed and used to describe the capacity of lathes in the UK
 
Swing is max dia over bed and used on the imported machines and in the US
 
Height over cross slide is as you say half the diameter of the biggest bar you could turn.
 
The gap will usually only accomodate thin items like flywheels etc. The bigger 12" plus imported lathes tend to have a removable gap piece but not the smaller ones, on the Myford the bed just stops short of the head creating the gap.
 
As said a Boxford or Colchester bantum will be a useful machine and they usually go for less than a Myford if you want to stick with UK iron. The 3 phase converters will give you the benifit of variable speed if you don't get a single phase one.
 
Jason
22/11/2009 07:36:44
Steve
 
Having looked again at the Warco 240 I see that the mane is a bit misleading, unlike the others in the range where the name reflects the capacity the 240 WILL ONLY SWING 8" so this will severely limit your choice of model. I know as my old Emco would also only swing 210mm and I had to resort to getting flywheels machined for me.
 
 Re The similar machines on e-bay, like the Clark they don't come with 4-jaw, steadies etc. There are a few factories making the "same " lathe but specs & quality can vary a bit, Warco generally seem a bit better than Chester and I think the e-bay ones are made by Weiss to a similar spec as the Warco. RDG and Engineers Toolroom also do them.
 
AS TE42 says most models are dimensioned in imperial and the range of fixings and materials from the ME suppliers is 95% imperial
 
Jason
21/11/2009 20:16:53
The 240 would allow you to do 9" Flywheels so most of the available stationary engines will be within its capability.
 
The other thing with the Warco, Chester, etc lathes unlike the clark is that they come with 4-jaw chuck, faceplate and steadies, all of which are essential.
 
The Variable speed lathes do lack a bit of torque when turning large diameters with teh motor running slowly but this just means you need to take a slightly shallower depth of cut. The main advantages are they usually have a lower speed than the belt drives and teh variable speed is so easy to adjust. I've had the Waeco 280VF for just over a year and the variable is nicer to use than the geared head that I had for 20yrs before.
 
Jason
21/11/2009 17:55:43
"a 3 1/2" lathe is good choice because there is very big range of models made for such a size of machine"
 
Just be aware that the 3 1/2" machine that a lot of these were designed for was a Myford that can swing just over 9" in the gap. If you want to do stationary engines a lot of them are made with 9" Flywheels, same goes with 2" traction engines there are a lot with 9" or there abouts flywheels and final drive gears.
 
Jason
Thread: Beginners start here in Model Engineer
19/11/2009 07:33:14
"Hand turning pens"
 
We are getting close to all the woodturning mags here
 
Jason
Thread: End Mills for X2
19/11/2009 07:27:09
I would go with HSS as it will handle most of the materials we are likely to encounter. A bit of cobalt mixed in will not hurt. The Carbide ones will come in handy if you need to work with poor cast iron but they are easily damaged if knocked or dropped.
 
I generally just use HSS, I get very cheap ones from a supplier in Hong Kong which I use for general work and keep the better Dormer ones for when it really matters, and the FC-3 ones for the smaller stuff (thats on an X3)
 
And remember that slot drills can be plunged unlike most end mills which are not center cutting.
 
The small 3 flute disposable cutters can work out quite cheap, the only disadvantage is the collet holder can get a bit close to any hold down clamps as they are shorter than a standard cutter.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 19/11/2009 07:29:10

Thread: Beginners start here in Model Engineer
18/11/2009 20:00:41
Chris, you should punch first with a dot punch, this has a more pointed end, then examine the mark and if its not correct you can "pull" it right by tilting the punch and giving it a tap in the right direction, once happy use the centre punch.
 
Also if you need to use a pair of dividers to mark an arc do so while its a dot punch mark as the point will locate better.
 
If all that fails then an optical punch will help, I use the Veritas one.
 
I now prefer to use an electronic edge finder instead of a wobble but they do the same thing, the one Greenwood tools sell fits a 1/2" chuck or collet.
 
Jason
Thread: Opus Proximum
18/11/2009 19:53:26
The black sems a very dense coating, hard to tell its not painted, but seems to have the advantage of a very thin layer( or disadvantage if you want to hine tool marks)
 
Don't know if you found your way to the rest of his models but this should take you there
 
 
Jason
18/11/2009 16:49:18
I like the black finish, with just a few parts left in bare steel & brass. Was looking at this guys site the other day and he uses a black etching process that seems to work on alloy & brass, its the "Seamann Atztechnik link, best if you put the page url into a translator like babblefish.
 
Jason
Thread: Beginners start here in Model Engineer
17/11/2009 16:28:28
I think that the way you suggested how to avoid the problems of backlash would be equally applicable to using the X & Y handwheels on a mill or with the casting on a vertical slide the cross feed and VS handwheels.
 
Though it may be an idea to show some dummy set-ups using just the lathe to give beginners other options if they don't have a mill.
 
Its always going to be difficult to decide at what level to pitch an article, do you go right back to basics such as marking out, use of a centre punch and then dot punch once you are happy with the position etc
 
Jason
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