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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Boring for a Beginner
21/03/2010 17:21:00
You should be able to get (or make) a similar tool that has a 1/4" holder and still uses the 1/8" HSS bits I used a cheap set of 4 boring bars like this for a number of years. Always use the largest dia bar possible and as you get near the finished bore run the tool through several times without putting on any more cut as there will be some spring in the tool that needs working out.
 
I think my set came from Tracy Tools but Warco do one
 
 
The other option is one of the small indexable boring bars but I woul dstick with the others for now. For the flywheel you could also use a reamer.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 21/03/2010 17:25:43

Thread: Riveting
19/03/2010 20:24:56
Both the minnie in my avitar and the current 2" Fowler I'm working on have cast alloy rims. I used steel rivits for the strakes but copper for the spokes, all just formed with a snap and hammer, have a look at the pics and see what you think.
 
 
You may also want to register on Traction Talk Forum and have a read through some of the posts in their model section, there are a few on wheel building and riviting.
 
 
Jason
19/03/2010 17:35:16
Thats the way I was always taught, set the rivit then form the head with a snap, if the plates are not closed up the rivit can swell into the gap and no amount of hammering will close it up.
 
Jason
17/03/2010 20:15:31
Quite a few of the larger scale traction engine builders use this method but keep the rotary action as it acts like a rivit spinner. At much over 1/4" a hydralic press seems favorite
 
Have a look here
 
Jason
Thread: Drill chuck runout
16/03/2010 18:47:32
How are you actually marking out teh hole and holding the work, if your dot punch and following centre punch marks are off by 0.1mm no Drill chuck will solve that. If you have a mill you can drill with that or clamp the discs to an angle plate on a vertical slide and drill on the lathe, both ways you can use an edge finder and then feed the job to align the ctr.
 
Starting with a centre drill and then a stub drill will help the hole off better than going straight in with a normal jobber length drill.
 
Jason
Thread: Thread up to a shoulder.
15/03/2010 15:22:32
Sid you will only get to within one turn of the shoulder doing it that way and even that would require a special tool ground to just the width of one thread.
 
As the left hand side of the tool hits the shoulder the right hand side would need to make one full revolution before the thread form totally runs out.
 
Jason
Thread: O B Bolton Triple expansion timing
14/03/2010 18:01:15
Stuarts have a pdf of how to time their engines including their triple, may get you started
 
Jason
Thread: CE mark for boilers
14/03/2010 17:58:00
Its only commercially made boilers after 2002 that need CE marking. So provided you can show it was made by you there should be no problems.
 
Jason
Thread: Novice beginner
13/03/2010 10:18:57
This pic shows how I turned down the end of the snaps to give a parallel end as the usual tapered end meant that the body of teh snap fouled the wheel rim. You can also see on them where I have ground a flat to give even more clearance for either the radius on the inside of the tee ring web to rim joint or to clear the tie plates on teh rear wheels.
 


 

You can see the usual shape of the snaps here
Jason
 

Edited By JasonB on 13/03/2010 10:20:24

Edited By Katy Purvis on 01/06/2015 12:49:44

12/03/2010 17:37:32
As David says its just over one and a half times the dia but varies a bit depending on your snap.
 
I annealed the end of one of my snaps and turned the end down to a smaller parallel end then hardened again, this should help stop it fouling the rim, will take a picture later so you can see what its like.
 
Jason
Thread: 3 1/2" track
11/03/2010 19:31:52
Pollymodel do 1m display track kits
 
Jason
Thread: Rina and T&K drawings
11/03/2010 13:30:18
Thanks for the clarification David, I can see that the 7/16" and half the bearing cap width dont add upto the gear centres and you have done the best you can with what you were given
11/03/2010 07:42:31
Posted by David Clark 1 on 10/03/2010 21:05:09:
 
Numbers are not rounded up or down but are as drawn.
 
I redrew it from the pencil original and most of the dimensions were originall fractional but not all of them.
 
 
 David I agree that the 000 can be left off the end but if the original sketches were in fractions why draw it 2.28 when the decimal equivalent to 2 9/32 is 2.281 or was this originally a decimal.
 
I can see why some of the dims were originally given as decimal, the gear ctrs and the setting out of the PCD being two examples.
 
Jason
10/03/2010 19:20:12
David
 
In the latest issue you have asked for comments on the drawings that acompany these two items, a few points I have spotted:
 
Rena Fig1. There seems to be some inconsistancy with the decimal "fractions" some are given to only two decimal places eg 2.28, one assumes this is 2 9/32 which should really be 2.281. Some are rounded down and some rounded up eg 3.345 assume 3 11/32 so 3.3438 but as you seem to be rounding to the nearest 0.0005 then 3.344 would seem right. Again 2.155 assume 2 5/32 would expect 2.156. I have no issue with printing to the nearest 0.0005" as this is what most peoples digital callipers/mics etc will read to but can it be consistant.
 
On both models there are radiused corners and edges, no radius is given. I know this is not a critical part of the model but would be nice to have.
 
Again on Rena the two side plates Fig 2 &3 are drawn to different sizes, this is possibly to keep column widths the same but I would personnaly like to see the parts to teh same "scale" even if there is a bit more air around them.
 
Apart from that they are fine to follow but a beginner may be trying to mark out to the odd 0.001" or so accuracy rather than 1/32nd increments.
 
Jason
 
PS should this section of the forum now be headed 2010 not 2009??
Thread: Propane torch
10/03/2010 13:23:12
Altough the mapp torches are hotter they may not heat the area you need on a boiler, maybe a combination of the two, big propane burner to bring the job upto temp and then the mapp on the actual joint
 
J
10/03/2010 07:29:21
Flamefast to gas/air guns.
 
Depending on the size of your boiler you should be OK with propane, have a look at some of the Silvert burners & nozzels.
 
If it a long heat you can use Tenacity No5 Flux as this will stay active longer than easyflow flux. This is true with easyflow solder but I think you meann Silverflow55,  just check its OK with this.
 
Jason
Thread: X3 mill help
09/03/2010 19:43:04
Try the X series mill Yahoo group
 
 
Jason
Thread: Tooling supplier
09/03/2010 17:51:59
I think they tend to spend the winter in spain or somewher ehot like that and then return for the summer and do the ME shows.
 
Jason
Thread: Dave Park's 2-Stroke
08/03/2010 19:32:04
Also in the first installment the spark plug thread is given as 1/4"x40.
 
These plugs are UNEF threadform, in the UK builders may take this as being an ME thread which is 55deg not the 60deg of UNEF.
 
Jason
Thread: Thread notation
08/03/2010 13:41:46
Chris I did say to terry my link would give an "idea of whats available" not the full possibilities that he may not readily be able to get taps & dies for and its not me who wanted to know, maybe your post should have been addressed to terryD, I just gave him a guide as no one else had answered his question.
 
Now can anyone answer mine re the spark plugs?
 
J
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