Member postings for Russell Eberhardt

That works out at £20/kilo. You can buy it on line for about £5/kilo post free. Also useful as rust remover and kettle descaler.

Russell

Good, so that will include Linux then??

Russell

"May you live in interesting times." - Supposed Chinese curse.

Russell

Sorry, can't send a picture as I can't find that insert at present. The holder was just a piece of 1/2 in bms cross drilled 1/4 in with a 2 BA grub scrrew to retain the silver steel insert. The insert, about 3/4 in long, was filed flat at the end to half diameter and the end angled at 45° before adding relief angles. It was touched up with a slip stone after hardening and tempering. Nothing is very critical.

Silver steel should cut mild steel OK provided you keep the speed down otherwise you can grind one from round HSS.

Russell

I had a Chester 920 for a few years as a second lathe to my Atlas 10F. I found it to be quite a capable machine and it represents good value for money now although for a new lathe it is somewhat outdated. As a beginner you will probably find the 100 rpm lowest speed a bit scary for screwcutting.

When I needed the space for a CNC mill I had to sell one of them. I chose to sell the 920 and keep the much older Atlas as it had more flexibility of use and I had many more homemade accessories for it. I had also fitted a three phase motor and inverter drive.

If you can afford a bit more I would look at some of the similar size variable speed lathes now available.

Russell

Yes, no problem in brass. I made the fly cutter insert insert from silver steel, hardened and tempered to a medium straw colour. It has cut a few ratchet wheels without sharpening.

Russell

This is how I do it:

Flycutter insert is made from silver steel to match the desired profile. The slight undercut required on the tooth form is achieved by setting the flycutter tip just below centre height with the ratchet direction as shown in the photo.

Russell

You might find it worthwhile taking out a digital subscription to Model Engineers' Workshop. That will give you access to all the backnumbers on this site and you can look at Neil's series, "Lathework for Beginners".

Russell

Even if he was measuring VA rather than true power that seems rather high for such a small motor. Perhaps his example had stiff bearings. The current shouldn't change significantly with time so why did he quote 7 minutes?

Russell

pgk,

It's the end that cuts. If you leave less than half diameter the side can cut and result in an oversize hole. The reason for leaving it slightly over half diameter is to prevent the side cutting. For a full exposé of how they work and how to make them see G. H. Thomas' book "The Model Engineers Workshop Manual".

Russell

There is often confusion about D-bits. A properly made D-bit has the end just more than half diameter. It then cuts on the end not on the side. It makes a very effective reamer.

Russell

... or make a D-bit from your 6 mm silver steel.

Russell

Most of my taps and dies are carbon steel including some Dormer branded ones. I never use them at high speed, and thus high temperature, so see no need to pay extra for high speed steel. Most of mine have lasted 50 years and many were not new even then.

It has been said that carbon steel holds a better edge than HSS but I can't say I've noticed the difference.

Russell

Same here in France - confused me a bit at first.

Russell

If you use a keyless chuck it will self tighten as the tap starts to slip. When you reverse though it will let go.

Russell

It isn't 3/16 W.W. That is 3/16 overall diameter. The thread is the same pitch and form as 3/16 W.W. but 7/8 diameter. The same pitch of thread was used on both 3/16 and 7/32 W.W.

Note that 7/8 BS cycle thread was also 24 tpi but had an angle of 60° rather than 55°.  Are you sure it's not that?  I think it's more likely.

Hope that helps

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 31/08/2018 15:03:57

Apologies not needed Ketan. Such misleading marketing must be annoying for you. Still, it's not as bad as the quoted power ratings of much audio equipment.

Russell

The Axminster one has the table supported by a substantial looking bracket which is normally directly under the quill so the rigidity of the table itself is less critical. I have had an almost identical Chinese drill for 20 years and find it to be satisfactory. The biggest problem being that I have to use a set of steps to change the speeds as it is rather tall on my bench!

Russell

Yes, I've done that for years just using a 6" M&W square against my homemade vice. Never had any problems.

Russell

Are you working on one where it isn't? If you succeed the world will beat a path to your door

Russell