Here is a list of all the postings Stephen Benson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Is it just me? |
08/09/2013 13:24:50 |
From reading some of the posts lately it seems to me that subscribers effectively join a club so MEW is the club magazine which is also sold in the newsagents and we must lower our expectations accordingly. Even when I was a subscriber I did not realise this so all I can do now is apologise. |
05/09/2013 19:38:59 |
I thought this issue was tailor made for me when I read the contents on here but I was very disappointed very simplistic. The coordinate drilling did not mention toolmakers buttons as I was expecting but went on about reading standard dials and the 9+ pages of Chesters Generic Chinese tools just made it worst. The only thing that was not simplistic was the milling for absolute beginners which contained no pictures or diagrams at all, I liked the nice picture of a clock on the front cover.
Edited By Stephen Benson on 05/09/2013 19:42:14 |
Thread: unwanted adverts |
04/09/2013 09:15:19 |
You are right of course times are a changing hobby magazines were once the main providers of expertise, suppliers and news but not any more. Information is now given freely because information and expertise is the new currency on the Internet , your online personality/ credibility are very important much more so than the measly payment and the ephemeral nature of a magazine article. So magazine owners need to create a space for this information exchange not as an aside but as the main feature then they will be able to cash in as F/B Google and others have done. They do have an advantage they should make their back catalogue available at a modest cost and let us purchase high quality print out of the articles we need when we need them. |
03/09/2013 08:52:23 |
Ooh I thought this thread would be about the latest MEW it reads more like a trade publication from Chesters with a few articles tagged in to pad it out that was the last straw for me never again |
Thread: Er collets ? |
02/09/2013 19:44:54 |
Another vote for CTC Tools very good quality excellent price certianly good enough for clock repair they take a while to arrive a couple of weeks normally but then they are coming from Hong Kong. |
Thread: Very disappointed with the digital app |
15/08/2013 14:01:40 |
Yes the whole digital thing could of been brilliant and a joy to use but its all gone for a burton I will not be renewing anytime soon. |
Thread: marking / layout blue |
02/08/2013 22:56:18 |
I have been drawing parts for my clock on Turbocad and printing them on my printer gluing them to brass and steel with great success. My Epson printer seems to hold a 0.1mm tolerance putting dots in the holes centres means I can use my optical centre punch to do the holes taking a lot of the boring work out out of the job, in fact I am quite in enjoying myself which is of course the point. Steve |
Thread: John Wilding Regulator |
01/08/2013 19:34:30 |
Like you I made my clock from the red book bought on ebay for a song, however I bought the latest book from Ian T Cobb which includes the additional info infact he has made the clock much simpler to make although basic time piece is pretty simple to start with it certainly makes a good first clock and the additional stuff make it very interesting for the more experienced. Steve Edited By Stephen Benson on 01/08/2013 19:35:18 |
01/08/2013 10:58:33 |
Posted by JA on 01/08/2013 10:02:03:
I may dig out the clock this winter and continue work on it. I had not thought about using an Anchor escapement (the geometry of the pivot holes may have to be changed radically) but first I will loosen up the pivots and possibly rebush one. I will try to give an up-date in a few months. JA On the John Wilding 8 Day Wall Clock design you can adjust the Anchor/Recoil escapement height while it is running and it very satisfying to see the action getting better and better as you turn it. Steve Edited By Stephen Benson on 01/08/2013 10:59:03 |
Thread: Ffestiniog |
31/07/2013 19:44:44 |
Yep Sorry got my passes mixed up it is the Horse Shoe pass however the Llanberris pass is one of my favourites and depending on which way you are going not that far away. At the top of the Horseshoe Pass is the Ponderosa Cafe its car park is normally full of motorcycles if you like that sort of thing. Steve |
31/07/2013 18:55:49 |
Llangollen is not very far away and they steam loco's and nice canal boat trips, next door to the Snake pass might be worth a look. Steve |
Thread: John Wilding Regulator |
31/07/2013 18:18:44 |
The WIlding regulator has a dead beat escapement and you really need to understand the action to make a good job as they need four faces to be perfectly aligned to work well. The Wilding 8 Day Wall clock has recoil escapement which only works on two faces it is very tolerant of errors and as it is weight driven it will keep time to 30 seconds a week or better if you add a simple maintaining power mechanism. Both will go into a long case but Wilding has updated the recoil 8 day wall clock to make it even more interesting with an amazing perpetual calendar and a normal one also a very interesting striking mechanism using the single 10 pound weight plenty to keep the average model maker or clock maker happy with all most no repetition. I think you can guess which one I am doing. Steve
Edited By Stephen Benson on 31/07/2013 18:20:52 |
30/07/2013 14:17:42 |
Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 30/07/2013 07:47:47:
Hi Steve, I have now read that lantern pinions give less friction than solid ones when being driven by the wheels and more friction the other way round. Don't know if this is true or not - must do some more research. Do you know the correct relationship between wire size and module? I cant seem to find that in any of my books. Russell. In answer to your first question you are quite correct they should not be used to drive a gear and they do give less friction in fact a 8 pin lantern has about the same friction and 10 tooth solid pinion. However most Horologists agree including John Wilding that it is perfectly OK to use a lantern pinion to drive the hour wheel in the motion work, this is what I have done to good success on my clocks I would post a picture but they make it so difficult on this forum to post pictures that I do not bother any more. Roy has answered your second question perfectly
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29/07/2013 15:41:15 |
Hi Russell, I like lantern pinions they are just as good as solid pinions and they are much easier to make, I use them in all my clocks with normal horological tooth form. Steve |
29/07/2013 13:35:14 |
I am a Mechanical Engineer and now a Clockmaker making my first clock I used my Downham Jig Borer, Cowells Lathe and made everything to very close tolerances so my clock had no chance of running properly or in fact at all. When asked I always say never get a engineer to repair your clock as they will be horrified by the fit of pinions in the holes etc etc and they will want to "improve it" you have to repair a lot of clocks before you get a feel for what is important but there is a saying in the Clock trade if it rattles it will run. Best of luck with your improved clock I am sure you will learn a lot..
Edited By Stephen Benson on 29/07/2013 13:39:10 |
28/07/2013 16:05:13 |
Hi Russel, your mods sound OK I would only add that I would guess that you would want your clock to be running long after you are gone so please think of future repairers. I often get to repair Longcase clocks that are 200- 300 years old and they can be kept running indefinitely, will a repairer be able to find the right ball bearings in 300 years? There is a lot more skill involved using traditional methods but there will always be people able to repair your clock.
Steve |
Thread: Shaping Machines |
17/06/2013 22:40:51 |
Well it all depends on depth of cut if you take fine cuts it requires very little effort, you could also extend the lever but I doubt you would need to certianly a rather small 9 year old boy had no problem using the adept, I had the Cowells and Perfecto shapers these are larger hand powered shapers but no more difficult use in fact I would say the larger hand powered shapers are easier as they have auto feed. See the www.lathes.co.uk for more details on shapers Edited By Stephen Benson on 17/06/2013 22:45:21 |
17/06/2013 20:34:37 |
I like shaping machines when you get the swarf peeling off just so they are a joy to use, I have only tried the hand operated ones as they are great for introducing youngsters to engineering projects I normally start them off with toolmakers clamp. We foster children so I have introduced many young people to the shaper this
Lad using my small Adept no 1 is only 9 so I was very interested the new series in ME but was a bit bemused to have to wade through lot of stuff about the new editor and then a whole section making spinning chuck which needed a few more pictures I felt as I could not visualise it myself. But I am looking forward to the Drummond restoration and to see what else he has to say. Edited By Stephen Benson on 17/06/2013 20:36:43 Edited By Stephen Benson on 17/06/2013 20:37:44 Edited By John Stevenson on 19/07/2013 00:08:09 |
Thread: Anyone wear Vari-focal specs? |
14/06/2013 22:49:53 |
I am a clock repairer and I have worn varifocals for a while and they work great with a optivisor for close work |
Thread: Model engineering ideas |
09/06/2013 20:06:14 |
I would also recommend building a clock then you can leave behind something that is also useful and beautiful, but I would avoid weight driven clocks unless you have a talent for woodwork. A spring driven clock can be placed anywhere and can be covered by a easily bought glass dome. For a first clock before you build a family heirloom I would suggest the following "Building an American Clock Movement by Steven G. Conover" It was written quite recently so does not expect you build everything on lathe and includes a clock wheel making jig as a bonus.
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