Member postings for John Baguley

No, it's not a Torquay Manor. There are too many differences in the frames etc.

I've just had a look on Station Road Steam and It looks very much like a GWR Hall that was sold some years back - Stock Code 2663 if you want to look. The position of the weighshaft and the pivot for the rocking levers that drive the valves are identical. Most GWR locos have the pivot for the rocking levers (pendulum levers) on the top of the frames but this one has them in the middle of the frames.

I'll see if there was a commercial design for the Hall in 5" Gauge.

John

PS - Just found an identical chassis on SRS - stock code 5006 - so it must have been a commercial design. It's just a case of finding which one!

Edited By John Baguley on 26/03/2022 16:00:24

Looks like a Great Western 4-6-0 of sorts with the inside Stephenson valve gear and the pendulum levers driving the outside valves but don't know the design off hand. The tender doesn't look Great Western though so may not be for that loco. What gauge is it - 3½" or 5" ?

John

My Helen Long

John

The reverser is described with drawings in Volume 53, Issue 1281, Page 630.

John

They look very much like the frames for Mona, LBSC's 3½" Gauge 0-6-2 tank loco.

John

I've never enjoyed driving a car although I enjoyed riding motorbikes for many years. If it wasn't for the fact that my ME club is 25 miles away and I go to various 2½" Gauge rallies during the year I wouldn't bother with a car anymore. I hate driving in the dark and avoid it wherever possible.

John

I've always used stainless with no problems. You can buy 6BA x 1/2" cheesehead screws from EKP but not cheap.

Can I suggest that you make studs and fit nuts if possible rather than use screws. Much easier to remove the dome then and avoids the risk of shearing off a bolt when they seize up (as they often do!) Fit the studs with threadlock which will seal and protect them if the threaded holes in the dome bush go through to the boiler space.

John

Like Jason I will be carrying on using Alibre, albeit the basic version which cost me £150. I've been using it for 10 years, it does everything I need to do (don't need CAM as I don't do CNC) and I can use it in my sleep. Also, cannot be othered to waste precious time learning new software that would not be of any advantage to me.

John

Sounds like you have the DRO set to read diameter rather than radius. There should be a D/R button to change between the two.

John

Many clubs now insist on seeing a copy of your insurance certificate before they will allow you to run. If you are a member of a club then you should be able to get a copy from your club secretary and take that with you.

John

No, that won't cause any problems at all. If you try boring it larger to try and get rid of it there's a good chance that it will get worse. Been there, done that!

John

A friend of mine had a large number (at least 10) locos stolen from his factory unit where he kept part of his collection. None of them were ever recovered. The thieves were just after scrap metal so they all probably finished up in a scrap yard somewhere. One of the locos was a 2½" Gauge King that I had just finished restoring for him so I wasn't very happy either.

The thieves made a return visit and my friend was foolishly waiting for them. He tackled them and was hit over the head and thrown down an embankment. He was lucky to escape serious injury or worse.

John

Steve,

I don't think that is the same article. The one Duncan is looking for is one on making piston rings from carbon filled PTFE. I think it was by 'Journeyman'? and refers to the rings for the Boxhill that he was building.

John

I replaced mine a couple of years ago and it was definitely a 23 inch. However, I replaced it with a cogged type Vee belt (AX23 from Simply Bearings) as I have found them to be a lot smoother running than the standard Vee belts.

John

I replaced all the fluorescents in my workshop with the 600mm square panels. The headroom was somewhat limited with the fluorescent fittings but the panels are very thin so I gained a couple of inches. I fitted the daylight panels and I find them ideal, not harsh at all. I've replaced all the lights in the house with daylight LED bulbs and find them far better than the warm white ones. I can actually see to read now!

John

Edited By John Baguley on 08/04/2021 19:54:30

I did this twice with my Chester Eagle 25 mill and stand. Once when I bought it so we could get it in the car to bring it home and a second time when I moved it into the new workshop. No problems at all. Did the same with a Boxford shaper that I bought and my Denham Junior lathe.

John

I think you will find that you would still be breaking copyright with your new corrected drawings as they would be classed as being derived from the originals and so still covered by the original copyright. It's probably very complicated!

John

I've replaced both belts on my ML7 with 'cogged' Vee belts as sold by SimplyBearings etc. with a big improvement in smoothness and quietness of running. They are more flexible than a normal Vee belt and run with less vibration. I discovered them after having bad vibration problems with my mill after replacing the dual belt drive system with one long belt and a VFD drive. The normal Vee belt I tried flexed a lot at certain speeds and vibrated badly. The cogged belt that I tried as a last resort virtually cured the problem. I had thought of trying a link belt until I saw the price!

John

I'm no expert on fluid dynamics but I think you will find that it's the other way around. The smaller the diameter of the tube, the less likely that the flow will be turbulent as the Reynolds number decreases.I would guess that you would need a very high gas velocity through the small tube to get any turbulence.

Across the pond, they run a lot of propane and oil fired locomotives and they have found that putting 'turbulators' (strips of twisted stainless steel) in the fire tubes results in a significant increase in the steam raising ability of the boiler, due to them breaking up the stagnant boundary layer of gas on the inside of the tubes by introducing turbulence.

Jim Ewins did some tests years ago on a 5" gauge boiler that showed that useful heat transfer only occurred in the first few inches of the fire tubes.I would reason that that is because of laminar flow in the tube, rather than turbulent.

John

Quite a few years ago I found this spreadsheet for designing boilers which I've found very useful:

Boiler Design Calcs

It allows you to see the effects of varying the shell thickness, the stay diameter and spacing etc.on the safety factor of the boiler.

It's always struck me that the stay spacings given by LBSC on many of his boilers are a bit wide and I tend to use more and put them closer together. The existing spacings obviously work as there have been hundreds of boilers made to his designs but it does lower the safety factor. I always try and work to a safety factor of 10 whenever possible which is probably a bit over the top.

John