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Member postings for Peter Wood 5

Here is a list of all the postings Peter Wood 5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Pinning
25/08/2011 21:14:34
Thread: silver solder
12/03/2011 12:22:15
Try Cup Alloys at http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/.
 
Lots of info on their site.
Thread: Footplate Experience Recommendations
28/12/2010 08:45:10
A few years ago I was gifted a days driving experience on the Great Central line at Leicester.
Can't recommend it srongly enough. I had the silver package which involved driving an LNER ROD 2-8-0 twice along 18miles of main line track with a full rake of carriages. Apart from the driving you can couple and uncouple the loco for the run around etc, visit the loco works etc etc. Have a look a the website. Not cheap but a truly memorable experience and after all as my Dad used to say ' You can't take it with you!'
 
Peter
Thread: Late delivery of magazines due to adverse weather
24/12/2010 11:53:37
Last mail delivery just arrived here in SE Berks and still no MEW a week after it was on shelf in WHS!  My wifes Good Housekeeping was delivered today. Not sure that I believe any of the 'excuses' about Royal Mail and the weather any more.
Thread: Making studs
09/09/2010 17:43:50
Ricard that sounds a clever approach but why can't the lantern chuck be removed from the 3 jaw between individual workpieces. That way you would not need a long Allen key and the mark could be used to align with the correct jaw on replacing.
Also, does the threaded blind hole and grub screw have to be a larger diameter than the stud being threaded?
Out of curiosity, why is it called a lantern chuck?
09/09/2010 10:24:56
Thanks for all the suggestions. Initially I think I will try the Bogs method but in the longer term I might purchase proper collets. That raises the question of which sort is best but that is probably a different thread ( sorry unintended!).
08/09/2010 12:03:02
Can anybody give me advice on how to make studs succesfully. I am building a Anthony Mount model and would like to do the job properly rather than use threaded rod or machine screws. The model calls for a variety of studs from 6BA up to M6.
 
At present I am trying to make them in my 7X10 lathe. Threading the first end is easy but when I reverse the work in the chuck and start to cut the tread at the opposite end with a die the work slips in the chuck. Progessive tightening of the chuck inevitably eventually damages the first thread and/or the stud shank. I am using cutting oil and good quality dies and turning the chuck by hand, backing off regularly.
Thread: Choice of small milling machine
03/05/2010 08:54:32
Robin
 
I had a Warco mini mill for three years and whilst it served me well it had all the faults mentioned previously.
Backlash, particularly on the X-axis was up to half a turn. The problem was effectively solved by fitting a DRO but at some cost.
The gears were a constant problem and I went through four sets!!
Finally the table was just not long enough to accomodate a vertical rotary table and tailstock when I wanted to millflutes on a column.
 
However I always found Warco staff exceedingly helpful and particularly their engineers in the workshop.
 
Despite this I replaced the mini mill with an AMA25LV from Amadeal. It is exactly the same as the Warco WM 16 and about £200 cheaper.  A no brainer really.
 
 
Having now used it on a few jobs the difference in performance is amazing. The gears are much smoother and quieter and the extra refinements make life so much easier eg DRO on the head, travel stops, tachometer, one screw gib adjustments etc.
 
One final thought. I also hired an engine hoist to install it an it made light work of the job.
 
Peter
 
Thread: Warco minimill OR SIEG Super X2 OR none of them ?
11/03/2010 10:24:51
Marcus
 
I have owned Warco mini mill for three years now. The problems with the gears have been well documented so I won't comment further other than to say I have just broken my fourth set!!
 
I quickly realised the problems with backlash in all three axes. The X axis is the worst with about 1/2 turn of the lead screw, equivalent to 0.8mm, but there is also backlash in the Y-axis.
The Z- axis presents real problems because the tool tends to pull the head down into the work which can cause it to grab, stall the motor or break a gear. I always make sure that I 'lean' on the capstan when I am advancing the fine feed, to ensure all the backlash has been taken up, and then make sure that the head is firmly locked before starting to cut.
 
Fitting DRO on all three axes transformed the machine and positioning became much more accurate. Rather than spend almost as much again on a commercial DRO as the mill cost in the first place, I installed the YADRO system.
 
 
 It is based on digital scales but feeds the output into a computer which provides funtions such as edge finding, PCD etc
 
Hope that helps.
 
Peter
Thread: Belt drive for mini mill / x2 sieg arc
20/02/2010 17:37:54
John
 
Did you get my e-mail?
 
Peter
Thread: Anthony Mount Rectilinear Engine
19/02/2010 18:35:22
Excellent link with some useful constructional photos and videos of the finished engine running. The Google translation is interesting also!!!
The split component is the link between the sliders and the crankpin. He has also made split bearings which gives a bit more space behind the crank for assembly whereas I have made single piece bronze bearings held in BMS pedestals. Nevertheless it still looks like the crank is a press fit.
 
Thanks for your help.
 
Peter
19/02/2010 09:05:27
Thanks Jason
 
I have read and reread the construction articles countless times but still cannot find a reference to the fitting of the crank on the crankshaft. I suspected it might be push fit but was a little worried about whether it would withstand the torque forces. Anyway I will give it a go. It will test my turning and reaming skills!!
 
Danke schone fur die ?link?
 
BTW it is not James Booths Rectilinear Engine I am building ( far too complex for me) but the Cross Engine
 
Peter
18/02/2010 21:35:15
I am half way through building the above model which is my second project and I have hit a problem.
How do I fix the crank to the crankshaft?
The crank is situated at the end of the crankshaft, with a bronze bearing immediately behind it, then the eccentric sheave (on a larger diameter) followed by the flywheel (on an even larger diameter).
No key is shown on the drawings. I cannot silver solder it in place because of the bearing.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Thread: Belt drive for mini mill / x2 sieg arc
18/02/2010 17:50:14
Hi All
 
I have just discovered this forum when searching for info on a different topic. This thread struck a chord as I have also stripped three sets of gears on my Warco Mini Mill and indeed only have low gear on the present set. Apart fom the cost of new gears replacing them is real pain. Like Clive I have had problems with the gear selector lever. Last time the grub screw came loose allowing the selector fork to drop out of its pivot and fall into the gears!!
 
The belt conversion therefore looks very attractive. I am unable to find the Jerry Rollet article in the Yahoo forum. Could somebody post the address pls.
 
Alternately I would be interested in John's pdf drawings.
 
Regards Peter
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