Member postings for Gaz

Hi Gareth. I think tr12 is where it changes from 2 - 3mm pitch. If you can get away with 10mm rs components sell tr10 x 2 for 20 quid a meter. I bought some recently and it's good quality.

Best wishes.

Gareth

Satisfying isn't it, well done!

https://youtu.be/ubxj76DhEp4 Episode 4

For anyone interested in this, ep 2 and 3 are now on youtube;

https://youtu.be/ih9O55UKfFM

https://youtu.be/TI5zHnqLn6E

Finish with a file? Or use a boring head with a HSS with a 90 deg and broach it.

Thanks Jack!

Thank you Nigel. For some reason I designed it to be red and blue. I'm glad I changed my mind 😂

Thank you Howard, Huub. The anodising really does complete it, I think I need to spend a bit of time trialling a variety of polishes, grinds, brushes etc to see what results work best.

The first video is online! https://youtu.be/_c9T1E00XJg

For the last few weeks I've been making a telescope wedge for my Celestron telescope. I've been filming the endeavour for Youtube in both Welsh and English. I've never made such a lengthy series of videos and tend to write things up on my Wordpress site.

Anyway, here are a few photos from the build. I hope it works when we get a clear sky.

I couldn't work out how to rotate some of the pictures sorry!

Mod Edit: rotated photos.

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 14/07/2023 20:23:55

Best of luck. Maybe a pic of what you're doing?

Best wishes

Gaz

Personally, I'd centre the rotary table to the spindle, drill a hole through the part, then put a rod the same size as the hole in the chuck, put the rod through the hole and clamp the work down to the rotary table, ensuring that you have a flat sacrificial piece of metal between the work and the table. Hopefully then table, work and spindle are all in alignment. I'd then use an endmill and move the spindle to 1-2 mm from your desired diameter ( taking tool offset into account) then mill in a circle and gradually increase the depth, being very careful when you get close to depth to not let the work break loose, you should be able to make the last cut so that it leaves a tiny web which holds it all together allowing you to prise the middle section out. Then you can move the table again to diameter for your finish cut

In my opinion this works better, I've done it many times before, it reduces waste and saves time rather than milling one gradually increasing circle starting at the centre.

All the best

Gaz

Edited By Gaz on 09/07/2023 00:42:56

Edited By Gaz on 09/07/2023 00:48:16

Edited By Gaz on 09/07/2023 00:48:36

If its just for replica purposes. Could you drill the hole partially? It doesn't need to extend the full length of the barrel being a muzzle loader?

Failing that drill from both ends under sized then you can make a boring bar to fit between centres and clamp the part on the tool post using the travel of the Saddle to move the part. You'd probably need very light cuts and maybe a steady of some sort for the bar.

Hope that helps

Gaz

Edited By Gaz on 07/07/2023 11:43:21

Ddiolch Andrew!

I was brought up in a very anglicised area and Welsh wasn't taught as rigorously as it is now.

I really have to think hard about what I'm saying in Welsh and it makes me come across as being a bit slow 😂.

I'm pleased you like the website!

Cofion

Gareth.

Thanks Michael!

That's a handy link! I'm glad you can enjoy what other people are doing while you're out of commission so to speak.

All the best

Gareth

Thank you all!

The hammer is bearing up well however the lead end of it didn't last. I think I'll make a nylon one sooner or later!

Hello, I'm Gareth, I've been interested in metalworking for nearly 15 years now.

For a few years I've kept a sporadic page on wordpress documenting some of the projects I have undertaken which can be found here: https://gwbell.wordpress.com/

Currently I'm working on a telescope wedge which I've been filming to make a Youtube series in both Welsh and English.