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Just be aware that the “Gun Metal” is very malleable and easily distorted, so clamping methods are critical. A good portion of the work is hand work, so just take your time. The part is more delicate than it appears, but not overly challenging.

The 10H has the same part, just longer.  If you plan to add reversing, you might want to hold off on the eccentric strap since this one would not be used. 

Edited By Django on 21/09/2023 13:16:23

Edited By Django on 21/09/2023 13:22:23

Edited By Django on 21/09/2023 13:22:55

The number on mine is probably she same as yours. It is quite faint on mine, so I posted what I thought it said. My base casting was a replacement that I bought from Stuart, so it is from a different vintage than my casting set, (the original was a terrible casting. The raised Stuart lettering was very defective and quite unappealing).

I think that you are correct. The numbers are probably a part identification. It seems odd that they bother to cast a part number onto a part that cannot be confused with any other, but that still seems to be the logical explanation.

I do know that at some time the rim of the flywheel changed and the bearing went from gunmetal castings to Brass extrusions. I don’t know if these changes occurred together or not. If anyone knows when that happened it might help to at least establish a before of after date for identification.

Thanks

I can’t say for certain that it is cast in. The numbers on mine appear to be 8065-3. The numbers are fairly faint and I left the casting bare. I am wondering what numbers if any that have on their casting.

Edited By Django on 05/06/2023 02:08:53

Edited By Django on 05/06/2023 02:14:22

My Stuart Beam Engine has what seems to be a serial number cast into the top of the base. Does anyone know when Stuart was doing that?

Another question is, when did they change the flywheel and bearings?

Thanks

Edited By Django on 04/06/2023 18:18:54

Edited By Django on 04/06/2023 18:20:48

The end result is what really matters. It may seem a bit wasteful, but if he makes another, he is all set and he has no jaw marks to deal with. He may alter it at some time when doing a different engine.

Personally, I would not use a guide block. A long center or spotting drill seems to work fine, but that doesn’t mean that he did it wrong. Unfortunately, he will probably need a new guide block for each steam chest.

It seems that his steam chest locates to the cylinder nicely and the video was well done and could be instructional to someone that is not comfortable with more conventional methods. It’s always good to share ideas and methods and this might inspire others to be more creative in their methods. I give him two thumbs up.

Thank you all again for the advice. I should probably start with a set of drawings and then figure out where I want to go from there.

Edited By Django on 09/05/2023 21:24:13

Thank you all for your input. Who is the best supplier or the castings? Thanks

I keep seeing posts that say how many years someone has been working on one of these engines. I am tempted to build one, but I am already 67 and suffer long term affects from a motorcycle accident, so I am wondering what the timeline is in hours. For reference, I have a Hardinge HLV-BL and a Bridgeport with a ProtoTrak MX2 and I was a journeyman tool and die maker. Thanks

It looks to be a Watts type governor. I made a modified version of the Stuart governor. I could scan the drawing if you would like it. Mine is scaled down 20% and I replaced the spring with a weight. The Stuart is quite expensive and the balls are easy to get. Here is mine for reference.

Very nice job. I hope that you will post a video of it in action. Best of luck with the project.

The 10V is a nice engine. It’s a well documented build and it will teach you quite a lot about fitment. Do you plan to add the reversing? It can always be added later, but there is less repeated work if it is done from the start.

Best of luck with the build.

Here are some images of the governor and the pulley, (spring belt on and off).

Your engine is looking great. Regarding the governor, mine begins to do its job at approximately 200 rpm. I used the Stuart ratio which is if I remember correctly, approximately 1.75:1. My governor’s balls are scaled down 20% and I substituted a weight for the spring and made other changes to improve efficiency and hopefully improve the appearance. I prefer to run mine at about 60 rpm, so the governor is not doing anything more than revolving.

One additional note about the Stuart governor. The drawing has you making an eccentric with a grub screw in the center and a separate pulley to drive the governor. This makes valve adjustment a problem because you have to dismantle the eccentric strap to adjust the timing. I simply bored the pulley out large enough to mount it over the cylindrical portion of the eccentric and use a single grub screw that is in the center of the pulley.