Member postings for TJ scott

Well, after moving the capacitor into series with the cut out switch. and running the wires directly to live and neutral. i now have a clockwise spinning motor!

i take it that the two going to live will be my U1,Z1 and the two going to buetral will be my U2, Z2 for the purposes of taking this to the switch?

im not entirely sure on the type of switch, its not a dewhurst. it has 9 pins set out almost in a grid orientation

thanks guys, i really appreciate the help so far!

the terminal box has no markings whatsoever and while there was the dry, flaky remains of what may have once been a sticker on the inside of the cover plate, there is nothing left to identify exactly whats what.

having had the back of the motor case off, there is a centrifugal switch inside so that would indicate capacitor start, induction run. if it would help next time im out i can pop it back off and take a photo of the inisde wiring?

the internal wires are all black, however the two pairs do have matching insulation over the terminals, with the start windings being red and the run windings being green ( confusingly the capacitor itself has the same green insulation around the terminals where they connect to the terminal block)

i do have a multimeter, if you point me at what to test i can get some readings.

well, after a bit more testing, im not any further forward to the motor running up to speed.

the motor will turn both directions, so the windings must be connected up right. the capacitor has now been tested and seems okay. so the capacitor connections must be wrong?

there is an RCD in the circuit so thats covered.

ill give that a read. thanks!

im not entirely sure on poles, it rotates at just under 1500rpm so at 50Hz should be 4 pole. the garage plug circuit that the mill is plugged into has an RCD so no worries there.

also the motor does have a centrifugal switch, i know a few other brookes motors have the capacitor in the circuit between that switch and the start winding, however this one did not seem to be

Edited By TJ scott on 01/04/2023 23:51:46

Well my latest project has been restoring some of the original features to the mill. Namely switchable reverse for the motor. The motor that’s in it is a single Phase 4 pole crompton Parkinson’s motor. And ran fine before I touched it.

however it was missing a stud for breaking it out into four wires and was wired directly to a mains plug. I’ve added a stud and separated out the wires into the original chock block. However once wired up to my switch, it’s running very slowly, humming loudly and then blowing the plug fuse. So I’m assuming the starter capacitor isn’t doing its job, or isn’t wired into the correct place. I have however left it where it was previously.

this is the original way it was wired

heres how I have it

and here’s the switch diagram I’m using

while I do know a little bit about electronics, I don’t really have a lot of experience with induction motors. So hopefully I’ve just made a silly mistake and one of you good folks could point me in the right direction?

im at Glasgow Caledonian University doing Computer aided mechanical engineering. which comes in handy to a degree with this kind of stuff.

Its definitely a big heavy machine, it was a fun job getting up the ramp into the garage, the head does swivel with degree markings up to 30 or 40 degrees ( i cant remember exactly) on the other side. i have a few other tools like a good condition set of ER collets that see the most use and a boring head. the dividing head i picked up a couple of weeks ago with the rotary table ( which was the main thing i was after), i dont have the banjo or tailstock sadly.

the rotary table is from sometime around the mid thirties by the George Gorton machine company in the US and still turns nice and smooth, although i do need to pick up a handwheel to fit it at some point. the vice came with the machine and is a Leon Hure ( of huron fame) swivel vice, im not actually sure when it was made other than being quite old and very heavy.

ive already got a DRO set up ( on of my first jobs on it ) to get around the backlash but the drive box is split in two, so while its still able to move the table when bolted back together, i am without powerfeeds until its sorted. although it is only on two axes ( however the Z axis has very little backlash and i can live with accounting for that).

the hand wheel on the front of the head is a quill feed, and has 3" of travel, the little knob on the front loosens to allow the measurement dial to be zeroed.

Nick, i had a copy of the operators manual but had never seen the brochure/order sheet for one. so thats very interesting to see!

Hi folks, thought id start a thread here as my mill is starting to see more use. my main hobby is tinkering with cars and bikes, which handilly coincides with the engineering degree im doing at uni. problem is, while the uni does give us access to a few decent cad programs, were not able to use any of the machines. so as the number of little things that got dropped off at machine shops and designs sent off to get milled out started to build up, i chanced across a very very cheap Victoria V2 mill.

the good news was that it was 240v and came with a bunch of tooling. however there is of course a reason for the price. the mill had a bit of damage, one of the table end plates is cracked in two, and the "drive box" that connects the table to the Y axis leadscrew is also cracked in half. along with a couple of little missing bits. its also wired through a simple on off switch, so theres only one direction for the motor.

the two cracks are jury rigged for now with some threaded rod and weld stitching across the cracks, and a couple of plates bolted over to hold together. its not ideal in terms of backlash ( ie, a lot of it ) but ive got a DRO on there to work around that till i can find anyone with one for scrap to pinch the bits off of.

ive made a few bits and bobs with it so far, mostly making car bits flat, little slots and modifications. and a tool holder for a friends lathe. and a couple of little things just for practice as when it comes to this stuff i am a complete amateur