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I eventually got round to stripping the end cap today, and there were indeed two drain holes at the base that would allow oil to return to the headstock. However, they were both clear! 🤦🏻‍♂️.


I tried it again, and the leak was present as normal. The only other thing I noticed was the collar had two grooves in which were at the bearing end. I reversed the collar so that the grooves were at the cap end and reassembled it.

I ran it at top speed for approx half an hour and there was no sign of a leak. I’m not entirely sure why this is the case, maybe the groove is helping to shed any oil that gets onto the spindle, but it appears to have made a difference.
I suppose only time will tell.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions

Hi Nigel,
I honestly couldn’t say, but I do remember thinking why was there an extra hole in the gasket. Your suggestion makes perfect sense as if there is a return hole and it’s blocked, then the oil would rise in the cavity to the point where it would reach the spindle bore.
Thank you, I’ll strip it off tomorrow.

Hi Samsaranda,

The very same thing occurred to me as when I bought it last year, I did drain the oil and replaced it with the recommended amount of oil (can’t remember how much offhand)

This took the oil in the sight glass to the top line, but it’s now lost that much it’s on the bottom line so I am concerned that there is another problem. As I mentioned earlier, it only happens on 1255 or 2000 rpm, so I’m guessing it’s related to the amount of oil being thrown around by the gears its lubricating.

Hi Guys,

Being driven to distraction with an oil leak from the spindle of my GH1322, which only shows at higher speeds and hoping someone has previously experienced this or can offer some guidance.
The oil is leaking from the contact between the collar and locking nuts securing the spindle as shown below.


This is a metal to metal fit and I cannot see how oil is prevented from doing this.


In desperation, I even tried changing the gasket on the end cap, but it made zero difference. You can even see the oil leaking on the garage floor

Schematic for reference.


Any advice/guidance gratefully received.

Thank you for the information guys, it’s much appreciated.

I think all things considered, an ER32 solution would be the best fit for my needs.

Hi Guys,

A couple of questions on collets if I may please before I take the plunge.

What are the various pros v cons for 5C vs ER32 Collet systems and why do you prefer one to the other?

There are quite a few videos online highlighting the perils of the cheaper Collet sets accuracy/quality problems, is there an easy way to identify good from bad?

Thanks in advance.

It’s the GH1322, the imperial lead screw version, as far as I know, it was manufactured that way.

As if my brains weren’t scrambled already, my Warco is set up for metric and imperial.

If you trawl YouTube for videos such as “Top 5 3d printers 2023” you’ll get lots of information regarding price, capability etc. Once you’ve narrowed it down a bit, there will be videos specifically for the models you think you may want.
I bought mine last year, an Artillery Hornet which is already pretty much obsolete but it’s been really useful and I’ve made many, many things with it.
It is a fairly steep learning curve, to get them away but you’d be amazed at the number of sites with ready made files to download free for printing.
I’m now even using very basic cad to make custom parts.
If I can do it, anyone can.

I have just started cutting metric/imperial threads on my Warco GH1322, and found the above by Fulmen to be absolutely correct.
I find leaving the half nut engaged and using reverse works just fine but it does require a greater level of concentration, for me at least.

“Last exhibition I visited there was a Northern Shooting Show, where it took 2 hours to que from the A1 to getting parked (and that was arriving at the A1 exit before 7.30 am) & the Great Yorkshire Show basically gridlocks the roads for miles in every direction, even with the so-called "traffic management" that closes roads & instiutes a one-way system.”

Was that this year?
We attended the same show this year and it ran like clockwork with no queues coming into or out of the show. Granted, in previous years it was horrific, but they must have made some changes as the attendance this year was a record.

Thanks Oldiron, that’s really helpful.

I’ll pick up a couple of reference books as recommended on my return home, thanks for the help guys.

Garry

Hi Guys,
In your own experience, which is the go to book for a novice lathe user?
Thanks.
Garry

Thanks Howard,
I found a download of the original supplied manual, which at 12 pages is basic to say the least.
I also found that the exact same lathe (I think) is sold in the US by Grizzly. They too had a downloadable manual with some 100 pages and it appears to be much more comprehensive.
I’ve cleaned and degreased the lathe now, it seems to be running ok, but the lead screw and power feed rod aren’t working. I’ve drained the oil from the headstock for a better look and will keep you all briefed.
Garry

Hi,

Just a quick introduction.
My name is Garry and a bit of a late starter to the world of machining. Recently retired, I have decided to pursue my latent interest with machining of all types, and have just purchased my first lathe, a used Warco GH1322.
A trawl of the Internet seemed to highlight that this is the place for like minded individuals so here I am.
I’m not entirely convinced that I haven’t already bought a pig in a poke, but more of that later.
I’m sure I’ll have lots of questions for all of you knowledgeable people so please humour some of the basic questions I’ll no doubt ask.