Member postings for The Real Ron Skingley

Thanks for all the replies.
Yes, cast iron.
A spark eroder would be the logical thing. But no-one over here (Ireland) seems to have heard of them.
Drill another hole adjacent. I wish. But has to match up with other fittings.
Taking out with a carbide slot drill has also been suggested by a friend locally. But that means another couple of weeks wait as I haven't got any. Maybe a good investment for the future.
So think it's going to be see what can be done with an end mill.
Maybe even have to make the hole bigger and make a plug and re-drill.

Not having any luck with scriber and small hammer.
Pins and sewing machine needles is a good idea.
There's hardly any space showing down the flutes.

Ah yes, a sort of DIY extractor.
See if I can find some silver steel.

Most if not all my 'stock' is mild.
Bits of old cut-offs.

Only three flutes on the tap, so some very careful work required with the junior hacksaw.
But certainly worth a try.

Thanks.

Edited By The Real Ron Skingley on 14/09/2021 18:52:15

Yeah, still trying the scriber method.
Don't want to do more to the casting than absolutely necessary.
And 7BA is small.

Edited By The Real Ron Skingley on 14/09/2021 19:09:48

Hello All,

Had to happen eventually with clumsy fingers.

Finished with taper tap, just started to remove the plug tap, and a careless move and it was broken off flush. In cast iron.

7BA has a nominal size of 2.5mm.
There is a Walton's No 4 extractor that says 3mm, but there doesn't seem to be anything smaller.

Anyone know any solutions?

Other problems with this is, 4 jaws and 6 spokes.
Nothing to locate against.

OK, to be fair, I've just tried it again, and it is possible, just. But VERY dodgy. Literally another quarter turn on the key and the jaw falls out.

Anyway, done the job now with a plate and bolts to hold the flywheel, the plate having four holes in it to take the 4 jaw jaws.

Yep.
Standard procedure.
Still too small.

Won't reach.

4 jaw not big enough to get to the rim.

That's a nice mod Martin.

Unfortunately I can't do away with the topslide.
The main saddle wheel is very course, one division is half a mm, so trying to take a few thou off something really needs the topslide, where one div is 0.05mm.
And it's an old BV20 lathe with no DRO or anything fancy like that.

That looks good.

If only I could do away with the topslide I might do something similar.
But, as I said, the main saddle hand wheel is way to fast and 'clunky' to use for anything serious.
Maybe on my next lathe ......

Well I could of course.
But making a 'proper' faceplate would encounter the same problems with the size of chuck.
Have to hold it somehow to turn the locating recess.

Plenty of mods to make for the lathe, including your suggestion.
But at the moment I just want to get this flywheel done.

And I am saving for a better lathe, as this one is shall we say 'past it'.

I think I might be on the way.
From a piece of ½" steel plate from the centre plate of a Purbrook Heron (don't ask), I've managed to make a 'sort-of' faceplate.
Took a lot of hacking and angle grinding.
But with four holes in it each big enough to take the 'tip' of the four jaw jaws, if you follow me, then drill a hole in the middle as big as the largest drill I have, and bore out to about 1 ¾" so it can be mounted in the three jaw and faced off etc.

So now I've got a 7" faceplate that mounts in the four jaw chuck, and can be jiggled to get the flywheel running true to the inside edge of the rim.
All it needs now is drill and tap some holes in it for clamping bolts for the flywheel.

And take things very carefully.

The chuck mounting is a bit of a pain.
It's not a screw-on type, but has a mounting plate already on the end of the shaft.
Changing chucks involves undoing three socket head screws with only a thin space to get in to them. Even the Allen key has to have a short end.

Yep.

But my 4 jaw won't reach, it's too small.
Sad.

Yes, thanks all.
I will also look at making up perhaps a plate with a pin to engage the existing hole in the topslide, and a hole to take a pin from the toolpost.
Maybe

Patent makes interesting reading.
Set the tool up on a jig with a dial gauge, and transfer to the lathe.

That's a good idea.
Can't give up using my topslide though as the main saddle drive handle is way too clunky.
Might look more closely though at making a hole somehow.
Hmmm...

Ah yes, thanks. The Dickson one has the pin square-on which would make sense.

Thanks for the offer Mike, but I'm in SW Ireland.