Here is a list of all the postings colin hamilton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Trugrip conversion |
20/10/2021 16:38:10 |
So I got a crawford trugrip chuck bundled with my lathe but it didnt come with any collets. After a bit of searching it seems that some people machine a new inner collar so the more widly available 5C collets can be used. So this sounds like an ideal opportunity to use my lathe to make something for my lathe! So my research would suggest the external thread on the 5C collet is a 1.238 x 20 tpi thread. But I'm have no idea would to do with this to get to the dimensions I need to establish (major and minor?) Before I start cutting the thread. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Colin |
Thread: Quill feed milling machine |
20/10/2021 12:05:41 |
Thanks everyone. Sounds like I've started my down selection, needs a quill.
Cheers Colin |
20/10/2021 11:20:49 |
Just trying to settle on what make of vertical milling machine I would like so have been doing some reading. I notice that not all vertical mills have a quill feed. How much of an issue is this for the model engineer? If I have power feed on the vertical axis is it even needed? Thanks Colin |
Thread: Tool identification |
17/10/2021 19:15:03 |
Posted by David George 1 on 17/10/2021 15:23:06:
Hi Colin don't try and put a radius on the cutters with the chip breaker as they will rub and you can't get center height correct. Just grind off the end of the tool and a rub with a sharpening stone on the cutting edge. I use the corner of a grinding wheel along the groove and sometimes use a small diamiter grinding point in a dremmel to smooth it out. Don't use on brass, bronze, cast iron or similar materials as they will grab and chatter. David Edited By David George 1 on 17/10/2021 15:41:06 David - thanks for the detailed response |
17/10/2021 14:17:30 |
Just back from trying out my new lathe tools. The turning tools in my first picture are ground to a sharp point. Can I put a bit of a round nose on it or does the chipbreaker groove mean this isnt sensible. |
17/10/2021 11:43:22 |
Thanks for the replies |
17/10/2021 08:01:08 |
Ive just got my first set of hss lathe tools and have a couple of very noddy questions.
It comes with a right and left handed turning tools. They have a groove ground into them. When mounting the tool does they groove go on the top or leading face? It looks, to me, like they would cut in either orientation. Photos below:
And what is this for? Thanks Colin |
Thread: Material selection or additional process |
03/10/2021 19:51:50 |
Thanks for the input. Mk 2 in EN8 - much better!!
Edited By colin hamilton on 03/10/2021 19:52:14 |
01/10/2021 19:49:47 |
Using excess torque will only strain and wear the scroll and jaws needlessly. You are looking to grip a piece of relatively small bar, not moor the Queen Elizabeth! Howard Now that is good advice 😀😀😀😃 |
01/10/2021 08:51:13 |
So I'm going to have another go at making the chuck key this weekend. I've got myself a length of EN40b and EN8 and was going to make one from each (for practise). I'm using HSS tooling. Is there anything specific that I need to consider now I'm using these specific grades? Also as I dont have a mill will I still be able to file the square end? |
Thread: Screw cutting |
25/09/2021 22:15:20 |
Great advice, I had mixed up my 30 & 60 degrees. I followed Chris's no calculation method (above) and it worked out fantastically. I really like the fact that I dont need to remember where I got to, just keep cutting until the top slide gets back to zero. I think it's going to be my 'standard's method. It went so well I've decided to make a new arbour for my table saw. Next thread is a 5/8 11tpi left handed thread; what could possibly go wrong!! |
Thread: Material selection or additional process |
25/09/2021 22:07:59 |
I did use larger diameter stock (25mm). Since I hand cut the square I'm wondering if I was a bit undersized and combined with the center drill just didnt leave enough stock. This is the before photo. I'll add one of the damage tomorrow. |
25/09/2021 19:36:41 |
So I'm just getting back into machining. The first thing I made was a chuck key for my 4 jaw. It isnt very big and the square end of the key is only 7mm across the flats. I forgot to leave additional length so the available material in the square end is reduced by the centre drill. I made it out of black mild steel from my local steel supplier. I used it today and the square end just twisted into a spiral.
Should I be using a specific grade of steel or do I need to do something to it after machining to make it suitable in this application? |
Thread: Screw cutting |
25/09/2021 19:28:02 |
Thanks everyone, I was getting confused between 60 and 30 degrees. I reset the angle to 60.5 and followed Chris suggestion for a no calculation method and it worked fantastically.
I was so enthused I've moved onto making a new arbour for my table saw so I've started on a 5/8 11tpi witworth for my second screw attempt. What could go wrong!! |
Thread: Back to Imperial |
22/09/2021 14:24:36 |
When I used to work offshore, practises were still dominated by American custom so most things were imperial. We had to measure the drill pipe and sum all the individual lengths up. To make it easier they decimalsed the feet, so a foot had 10 (long) inches in it. We were issued with specially made tape measures! |
Thread: Screw cutting |
22/09/2021 14:17:53 |
Posted by Chris Crew on 21/09/2021 22:39:20:
I had a quick flick through the responses and, although I may have missed it, I don't think anyone has mentioned that you don't need to calculate anything when you use the set-over top-slide method. Simply put the tool in contact with the work and then zero both the cross-slide and top-slide dials. Move the saddle to the right so that the tool point is just past the end of the work. Wind the cross-slide in, and hence the tool point, to the correct depth of thread to be cut and then zero the cross-slide dial again. Wind the tool out using the top-slide until the tool point is just clear of the work. Start the lathe and put the cuts on using the top-slide dial. Use the cross-slide to withdraw the tool at the end of the cut and return it to read zero before you put on the next cut with the top-slide. When the top-slide dial again reads zero the thread will be at the correct depth.
Edited By Chris Crew on 21/09/2021 22:41:20
Thanks Chris. I needed to read your post a few times but I reckon it I've got it. I'll let you know how I get on!!
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21/09/2021 18:15:16 |
Thanks for the input and video. I didnt realise there could be an issue with setting 30 or 60 degrees. I'll be checkingvtgat next. |
20/09/2021 13:39:33 |
Tony and Bazyle - I think you have hit the nail on the head operator error. Not sure where but I'm going to buy a hss thread cutting tool and at least that will remove one (big) variable - my grinding! |
20/09/2021 11:47:00 |
Posted by Mike Hurley on 20/09/2021 10:26:57:
There was a lengthy discussion recently on the two methods ( angled compound and zero degrees via cross slide ) and opinion was divided. Personally I find simply feeding via the cross slide perfectly OK and much less prone to ' operator miscalculation ' , its so very easy to forget to adjust both slides correctly every time or as you may have done not zeroed the cross slide correctly due to backlash . Could be any number of common causes. if one method works and you're happy with the result - stick to it. Edited By Mike Hurley on 20/09/2021 10:27:54
Thanks. I would like to get at least one correct both ways so I can actually choose😀
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20/09/2021 11:45:24 |
Posted by Journeyman on 20/09/2021 10:43:02:
I find the 'straight in' feed the easiest to use and it always seems to work just adjust the amount of in-feed, less as the depth increases. With a lathe such as yours where the lead-screw cannot be disengaged a flip-up tool holder can be useful:- See *** Flip-Up Tool holder *** for more details. John Thanks for the pointer |
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