Member postings for Andy Thompson 3

OK - I may have the definitive answer. I had an online chat with someone in a company called fljpsnack. They seem to do software that makes flipbooks which is the digital format that Camden sell. He said and I quote

"The flipbooks are not meant to be downloaded, our platform is online and browser based.

You can download them on a Windows PC or a Mac for self hosting if you wish."

Self hosting will not work with Android - he did not explain why.

You should be aware of that and perhaps Camden should highlight it on their sales or download instructions...

Thanks guys - good to know I am not the only one bamboozled.

Dave - I tried typing path name into both google and firefox - no luck. Depending on input - sometimes it tries a Google search, somtimes it does nothing and once I got stopped by an insecure connection. I have also tried several ebook readers but these do not accept html format.

I have downloaded and tried various apps that will probably bugger up my tablet. I give up. The only way to read the books is by viewing the jpegs of the pages. Even then I have had to download a new photo gallery app and manually rename files because google scrolls photos in semi random order.

To be fair to Adam at Camden, he has offered a refund, but I want to read the books. I think they should investigate what does and does not work and at least put that on their sales pitch. They warn that it does not work on kindle but it is meant to work on computer, laptop (and many are Chromebook these days), ipad and similar and mobile phones. I think not anything android. It does put me off buying further books.......

Thanks guys,

I can see folder inc and file index.html. When I click on index.html - I just get a page of text - the title of the book with some strange characters. I suspect it is not running the html script behind this to give me the index and pages.

I note the comments about Chrome security and have put this in the downloads folder and tried to give it ang permissions. I have tried samsung internet which I think is the same. I downloaded firefox browser but cannot find a way to attempt to open it with that.

If I could download a gun I might shoot myself....

Michael. I am using a samsung galaxy tab A 2016 running android 8.1 Yes the instructions are simple and I have followed them. I believe I have downloaded all the files. I got a zip file and expanded that so it should all be there. I have directories with a jpg for each page and a bunch of html files.

I tried opening with the chrome browser and with samsung internet browser which is all you should need to open and run html files.

I think the problem is with android or the tablet - various unintelligible comments on the forums. Maybe it is a security thing. Just checking here if anyone has been successful or knows more about this than me.

As a workaround - I would be happy if I could open the pages in photo gallery and just scroll through. However - google will not scroll in alphabetical order - even if I rename the pages as page001..page170. I kid you not - you can list in the correct order but when you scroll it jumps around by date created.

I guess others here have read such books from Camden - maybe on desktop - but mine was last updated in 2003...

Hi y'all.

Hoping one of you with more IT sense than me can help. I have bought two books from Camden - specifically Vol1 and 2 of The Stirling Engine Design. I believe I have successfully downloaded these to my android tablet. Camden tell me to click on index.html to open the book with my internet browser. However this just shows the title with no links to the pages.

Has anyone been able to read these books or a downloaded html book on a tablet. Does anyone know how these books are meant to work. Does anyone know of a suitable app - google books and fullreader did not work.....

Does anyone know why IT has to be such a pain in the ass.....

Thanks guys - and those videos of Tubal Cain doing the south bend were very helpful.

I will be a bit coy on the price - in case people think either I or Martin were foolish. Let me say that it is a better machine for a lot less money than the one from our fishy friend above. Martin bought the machine in its current state and has not used it. He was intending to fix for himself but he already has a Viceroy and with other projects was happy to pass it on to me. I am very happy with the price and the straight dealing - even if the gearbox cannot be fully fixed.

When I get sorted I will take pictures and start a thread on the restoration.

Well just to end the story on a happy note.

Thanks to the forum - I met with Martin who was very helpful and I am now the proud owner of a Mk1 AUD. There is a known issue with the gearbox, but Martin was completely honest and we think it can be fixed. It was reflected in the price (and a bacon roll and tea was thrown in as well).

I am sure I will have questions when I get into restoration so "I'll be back"

Hi guys - thanks for comments - so you deserve to know what happened - in case you are curious.

Phoned this morning and left message to ring back - no reply. Finally got him at lunchtime.

Asked where workshop was - he repeated address for a country cottage. Since I had already looked I pointed out that I could not see any workshop on streetview. At first he said it was out the back - but I said no since that is clearly visible. Then he claimed google maps takes you to the wrong place and they are a mile further up the road nearer xxx. Not obvious to me on satellite or streetview but possible I guess.

Asked about extra QC toolholders - dismissed with there is lots of tooling and more stuff we can sell you. So I asked what was actually included. Was rudely dismissed - "can't be expected to go and count them for you". Asked about missing spindle lock and backgear - "For goodness sake it is a second hand machine"

Asked if new chucks were threaded and fitted - "I can't be expected to know but machining a new back plate is a 10 min job". (Even if it does take longer I think this shows he is very familar with lathes and not just selling one for his deceased father). To be fair I asked if I could see it running - he did say "Bring a bit if steel and we can turn it".

By this time he was getting even less inclined to chat and more tetchy and rude. Eventually said "He couldnt be expected to run around and know everything if you want it come and see it for yourself if not don't bother I don't care".

At this point my suspicious aroused I declined and was called a f..ing time waster. Subsequently he has posted more pictures with a fair number of toolholders and the old chucks mounted but none of the beds or motor etc. It may be above board but I still find the whole affair fishy and suspect he deals. He is not personally on facebook or ebay I find that suscipious. Let us know if someone here does buy some if his kit.

So I will continue my quest - must spend more time with my current lathe and less time looking.

Hey guys - thanks for all the comments - much appreciate it. I am restoring/learning on a little lathe as per other thread so I am not yet desperate for another one yet.

There are interesting signs of value but the lack of detail and communication is a concern. It is on facebook marketplace near Inverness but he is using his partners profile? He first advertised a M type cheap, then the Boxford and now an EMCO maximat.

Seller did not call me and has been remarkably reluctant with information.
Asked about tool holders - he replied there were some.
Asked if the two new chucks were threaded and fitted the lathe - no comment.
Asked about motor HP and range of spindle speed - no comment.
Asked about more changewheels and spindle stop - no comment

Just said his dad had been using it a few months ago.

He wanted £1000, would not take 600 but came down to 750. Ebay sold shows prices from 700 to 1500 and there are CUDs on facebook for 2500. ML7s vary from 1009 to 2000. Seems impossible to understand.

I think you have saved me from that strange longing we get to own more tools. I do want a Boxford, preferably UD, but they may never come up locally and down south is collection only. Had an attack of FOMO. If anyone is selling or has suggestions - let me know. Cheers

Thanks guys,

He has replied to say there is fair bit of tooling and some dickson tool holders but no list or pictures. Asked about changewheels etc. Those new chucks must be expensive.

Yes it is single phase which would suit me at the minute. I see the spindle lock and spindle speed nameplate is missing. Not sure what that implies.

I would spend more for a B or A model but not so common up here and appear to be £1800 range. There are more lathes down south but often collection only! What is chance of getting spare gearbox/leadscrew/apron.

O dear - I am all a swither!

Thanks for quick reply. If it is a school model was hoping it had less wear. Can't tell if that is original paint or a bodge. It is 3hr drive further north so not easy to nip up and assess.

Hi y'all. Sorry if this is the wrong place or type of question. I am an inexperienced newbie although I have been working to restore an old little lathe as per other thread.

This Boxford has come up and there is something peculiar about it. I was going to view/buy for £750. Am I wasting money and getting into trouble?

Seller is not forthcoming about model etc, just says his Dad used it until recently. It is some form of CUD but not clear what. He says 14" centres so may be a school model. No plate for spindle speeds - will this be full range? There appear to be two new boxed chucks - not sure if they even fit.

Is this a suitable for newbie. What should I check when I view. Appreciate any comments and pointing me in the right direction

Last update finished with concerns over a poor finish. Well I have learnt that I need to learn to sharpen better. Taking the sharp point off the knife to leave a small radius and aligning tool to rub really makes a difference. Photos show my latest efforts. Photo 1 the large bar is cheap mild steel bar, photo 2 the thin bar is EN1A supported in tailstock. I was pleased with these as they look and feel smooth. However I was dissapointed when somehow my phone caught photo3 - I cannot see it that rough even with two glasses and a magnifying glass!

These are the first things I have made on a lathe so I have learnt much from all the above. Not least is that pottering ineptly with a lathe can eat up the whole day. I now have plans to alter the carriage feed and make new handles and make a new belt sander - so I may be some time.

Welcome any comments - Cheers

My lathe just has 1/8" holes on the headstock for oiling. Of course I need to remember to drop oil in as I use the lathe and I never know if I am over or underdoing it.

Andy mentioned how drilling and tapping these holes for a proper oiler may contribute to cracking, so I made up a couple of oilers as shown. The one on the left is a free syringe from the pharmacy with some scrap bar and a screw.. Your can watch and count the the drops if paint drying is too exciting. The blue marks are meant to show level every 15 mins. It is all a bit sensitive - how can I improve control. I could modify these for a tube and wick - any idea on min tube/wick size.

Since I don't particularly like the above, I also made up the one on the left. Looks simple but a good exercise for a newbie. Different tapers needing me to grind and use right hand, left hand, round nose, boring and chamfering tools. The clear plastic for the top lid was a real pain and does not really work. The hole in the bottom is 1.5 mm and the oil runs out quickly. Don't have any felt or coffee filter, but tried various sponges and paper on the bottom to slow it down to drops. Best seems to be a single circle of normal writing paper.

The blue lines were marked every 15 mins. How much oil is required - ny idea of cc per hour?

Not sure if these are better than dropping, esp since only a fraction iof the time is spent rotating. Any suggestions to improve. Any suggested new design. Another thread talks about cheap Chinese oilers that may have a 1/8" thread - would these work for me?

Thought that a more secure toolpost may help my finish so made up the 4 way posts in the photo from scrap steel. Height for the small one is good for 8mm tools - are these robust enough? The big one works off the cross slide with 10mm tools (or 8 with packing).

Cannot say these are particulary time saving - at least not until I get more and shorter tools. Are two screws really enough to clamp tool securely.

Had to make more T bolts. See photo. The slot in the slide is 9.5mm. Best I could was turn and use M8 as a stud. Do I need proper milled T bolt?

Next up while the ali was out I made a carriage stop. See picture. This has proved most reassuring as I often seem to be working very close to the chuck and this means that any slip does not mean disaster. However dont forget the screw for adjustment. Initially I just slid the stop against the carriage. Once when using carriage feed the whole lot jammed early as the space between the carriage and stop was filled with swarf. Very useful, but so ugly I may redo it in steel.

Thinking of stops I added a carriage depth stop - both ways. Again see picture. This seemed the easiest way. It doesn't interfere with toolpost and can be removed when not needed.

Next I redid the tailstock clamp. See photo, the lump of steel on the left was the first attempt but I couldn't thread it, there was concern about it damaging the bed - and it is ugly. Replacement is two bits of aluminium screwed together. You might notice an extra screw. It is impossible to get the stud driiled in just the right position to leave the clamp flush on the bed but tight enough to hold. Solved by drilling the hole back and adding screw as shown on second photo. By adjusting this you can get it all to sit just right.

Now I remember being on the rigs and we were not allowed to use aluminium step ladders on the steel deck. Something about aluminium can leave a smear on steel - and this could lead to a spark and thus explosion. I kid you not. Not worried about explosion but could ali make my slide sticky?

Hi Guys. I promised to keep you up to date as I still need your advice and this may be useful for the next newbie.

First off I modified my workshop and bench. See photo. Added no volt switch - a pain that they use a mixture of spade and fork connectors. The bench is old worktop for free from kitchen suppliers who rip out old kitchens. Thought these would be ideal and resist the oil sitting on it. Need LED floodlights and desklamp to see a dammed thing. I was feed up with crunching on swarf and dropped tools so added the sloping bit at the front. This is really handy for stopping swarf and placing chuck key and tools. It is also perfect for leaning on with a cup of tea - reminds me a bit of those places we used to go to - bars I think.

Not sure whether to add shelves at back. Probably should now move the no volt switch - not sure where - on the wall to left would put me in the firing line of chuck keys etc. Any suggested improvements?

I have also realised that I can improve my range of speeds I run the belts squint. See photo of belts, the three lathe pulleys line up with the three rightmost pulleys on the countershaft. However if I run them one pulley i.e. squint, I can increase the top speed and infill gaps in the other speeds. Can you see any reason not to do so?

Thanks guys, appreciate all comments, good and bad, I am here to learn (and stay safe).

Ajax - you suspect right, I just used a multimeter, its all I have. Body continuity to earth is fine. It is on an RCD circuit. Motor starts and runs fine. Do you think thre is a real risk? What else can I do.

Red, Andy, - I sure don't want to try running before I can walk - so I am in no hurry to change the bearings if they don't need it. I did nip the clamp up until the up and down movement was the same as side to side. Cautious about going further since it may not change the sideways movement. My concern was that it was so bad that it may be unusable and I didn't want to spend a lot of time and money a effort if that was the case. Clearly it useable to a certain standard and I don't need accuracy or precision at this stage.

I will improve my grinder/sharpener, tweak the gibs, and try different tools and speeds.

Re the oilite bearings - that site has 7 with 1 1/4 ID and different wall thicknesses - good chance of getting a fit - and only £12 each. Seemed like a good opportunity. However I cannot find my bearing OD without taking the spindle out again. Maybe revisit this in the future.

Cheers

Thanks Andy - really appreciate your experience.

Pictures of my spindle and bearings below, clearly there is some wear on both. The nominal spindle od must be 1 1/4. There are flanged 1 1/4 " oillite bearings available here https://www.getyourbearings.co.uk/flanged-oilite/aj202624.html - very cheap. I would need to check the OD and maybe machine. I read that oillite bushes are oversize to allow for compression - that may not be great for my worn spindle - I presume smaller 30mm bearings would be too difficult to scrape.

However, I take your advice that I should try to sort out my finish and get some experience first. As you suggest, rounded cutters seem a bit better.

I read your thread on motor bearings - particilary that the bearing needs oil. My motor is a monster and I am not sure what sort of bearings it has. Took a cap off the back and stuffed grease in there. At the front there was a screw over the bearing so I took that off and stuffed grease in there. Should I have used oil?

Cheers