Here is a list of all the postings ronald bakker has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: DRO Z-Axis /4th axis "combiner" |
26/03/2021 22:51:13 |
using a window 10 laptop running the original and newest version of the arduino skietch_mar26a / arduino 1.8.13 trying to load an arduino nano using usb Edited By ronald bakker on 26/03/2021 22:53:49 |
26/03/2021 20:11:10 |
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 26/03/2021 19:18:14:
Sometimes if the wrong bootloader or chip is selected the USB interface gets confused. Might be cleared by waiting several minutes for the interface to time-out. or by unplugging the Arduino, waiting a few minutes, and trying again. Or logout and back in again, or in an extreme case, reboot Windows to force the operating system to force a full USB reset. I see your Nano clone has a CH240, which is a simple minded USB chip that upsets Windows unless a particular driver is loaded. Dave it sounds like that usb thing could be the problem , thanks for mentioning it i will try it tomorrow .....or tonight if i cannot sleep from thinking about it having people like you helping me makes figuring stuff out a lot more fun Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 26/03/2021 19:23:25
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26/03/2021 19:10:55 |
it might had been detected automaticly but i selected a com port before downloading , i tried all 3 of them (com3-4-5) i have tried the older bootloader like you and the program itself (link to arduino.cc) allso on al 3 ports available , windows did detect and loaded sumting when i plugged the arduino in the first time the lower black box is basicly showing it tried 10 times and could not reach the arduino with a small code behind it , might retry it tomorrow and will write down the exact text , i will allso try the blink sketch to see if that works , its supposed to blink the led's on the nano itself right ?, any chance of trying to reload the bootloader intoo the arduino ? the last option is to wait for my second order of arduino's to arive so i can see if its the arduino or me messing up , btw bought them cheap from aliexpress : "Arduino Nano ATMEGA328P Mini Usb with the Bootloader Compatibel Nano 3.0 Controller for Arduino CH340 Usb Driver 16Mhz"looks like the 328p bootloader look intoo it further tomorrow |
26/03/2021 18:19:46 |
youre both right , i can cut and paste i just need to erase wats allready in the sketch at the startup of the program , and indeed i needed to load encoder from the library it now compiles without problems , just doesnt load it intoo the arduino , tried all the com ports , one is responding a little quicker in saying it cannot reach the arduino but nothing else is happening it cannot read the arduino either , the arduino might be broke (thats my first hunch as i kindah messed with it a little during the soldering ) so i will buy another one and compile that before i start laying the solder down but if you guys still have ideas i hook it back up and give it a try i allready followed the tip of the program and tried the old version (before 2018) no such luck could there be a possibility that the arduino is empty and needs to have sumting loaded on it before loading the sketch ? |
26/03/2021 16:08:03 |
well have it soldered together (hopefully might need to buy a new nano and try again as a drop of solder got on one of the components , the middle led on the nano is working though   had to copy and paste it in a few sections to get the void setup and void loop in the right places but it looks like in the sketch on the forum , also had to put " # define ENCODER_OPTIMIZE_INTERUPTS #include " in one line as having include in the next line gave a different fault in the download the fault i got now : scan 1 exit status 1 'encoder 'does not name a type
does that mean i need to hook oup the scales to the arduino before putting the program in or do i need to add some type name in there ? |
25/03/2021 18:12:23 |
Posted by David Tocher on 25/03/2021 16:15:45:
Ronald: I'm not sure which pins you are referencing. There are at least two different SUBD9 pin-outs from/to the scales/display so the connections need to be checked for your setup. The website or manual should give the pinouts but . . . . My display unit connections on the SUBD9, which are all that I used, are pin 2 0v pin 6 A+ pin 7 +5v pin 8 B+ Pins 6 and 8 are the two quadrature signals and the other pair the power. There is a PE (protected earth?) connection on pin 4 that is connected to the screen but I don't think it's a good idea to use it for the power because of the risk of earth loops which can cause electrical interference. I rewired the plug from my quill to match the X, Y and Z plugs so they are all interchangeable. The screen is not connected to 0v wire anywhere external to the display unit but does contact the metal case of my Nano box and the screens of the two Z scale cables. seems like its the same pin out as the schematic , i have a chineese dro on order and my guess is that the pinouts are the same throughout as they advertize it will work on multiple chineese glas scales like i said in the former comment i probably just make a 4 way central connection from all the three cables combined for the 5v pin and another one of the 0 pin and connect those with the fourt branch to the power input of the arduino the A and B connections i connect as described on the sketch and as an extra i will twist the shielding of the three cables together (but whont connect it to the arduino ) that way the power side will be the same as it would be if it was the cable directly from the glass rule to the dro (just split up) and the signal gets processed by the arduino like it should too allso thank you for youre help Edited By ronald bakker on 25/03/2021 18:13:56 Edited By ronald bakker on 25/03/2021 18:17:57 |
25/03/2021 18:01:23 |
guess i connect the shielding together to prevent radio interference and connect the 0's together and to the zero on the arduino board , that way all the cables are hooked up the same way (to the dro unit) and the power side from the dro side will power the arduino like it does on the schematic so it should work the same way as a single glass scale would thanks for youre help i apreciate it |
25/03/2021 13:17:15 |
Posted by David Tocher on 25/03/2021 12:45:24:
A 'sketch' in Arduino-speak is what I'd call a program. The comments at the start of the program/sketch and the schematic wiring diagram (called in Arduino-speak a 'fritz' I used the screen in the SUBD9 cable from the display unit daisy-chained to the screen of the cables going to the scales, making sure there were no possible loops which can pick up hum. Provided you don't do anything silly like connecting the 5v to ground I don't think you can do any damage. All the Nano connections to the scales are inputs and, I'd guess, the pins on the display are also inputs and the worse that can happen it won't work! It's been working fine for a while and I'm very pleased with it. Using DRO on the mill makes things so easy and now being able to raise or lower the quill to change to/from cutter and drill chuck without losing the Z position is great. Again thanks to Kealan for his efforts. ok so it doesnt matter if i use zero (pin 2) or ground (pin 4) to connect the power out from the dro to the scales and the arduino ? |
25/03/2021 11:21:59 |
hi all , new guy here , have bought a three axis dro and have been looking at the idea of the axis combiner to give the the columb and the quill a shared z axis on the dro i cant seem to find the sketch david is talking about and i am slightly worried with how the ground lines are hooked up on the schematic scale one and the plug going intoo the dro has the ground (pin 4) hooked up to the ground tab on the arduino but scale two has the zero (pin 2) hooked to the ground on the ardiuno , is this correct ?
have all the stuff needed here to make one but dont want to make a misstake soldering the thing up and after plugging it in release the magic smoke |
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