Member postings for von dutch

Not sure yet which route to go,shame to turn away the faceplate,when I could make an insert or use another faceplate that doesn't have so much overhang?, putting out there I guess for ideas

Ha ha ,I was just wondering if anyone had made there own insert,if it's possible or maybe I can make the back plate a bit thinner?

Yes I've seen those hence why I wondered if I could turn up a press fit insert to copy that idea,it's a decent quality chuck that I got for a good price

Evening all,I need some advice on my 4 jaw chuck it's a slim body 6" burnerd one with a backing plate threaded to suit a myford lathe,whilst using it on my ml7 I noticed it does overhang the front of the lathe bed ways by about 1/4".Can I remove backing plate and is it possible to turn a press fit insert into back of chuck to suit myford spindle or could I remachine backplate to make it thinner.The chuck does clear the bed ways but if I wanted to machine anything larger diameter the jaws will foul.All advice greatly appreciated.

Wow thanks for the replies everyone!,just worked a Nightshift so delay in response.I know my cutting of has tool blank probably isn't perfect,but I reckon after some consideration Its my own operator failure! Trying to do this myford test.I think there must be a centre in to produce bell shaped test bar and then remove to take light cuts as per manual for adjustment if needed.Also I probably ran it way to fast for the unknown material(first time back on the lathe in over 20 years!)in my naivety I thought top speed was slow but I possibly needed to be in top back gear at most!.I thought 1 thou movement on the register via a 12" bar being heaved around was pretty good? I did give it some,ref end play on the spindle I did have to tighten initially when I got the machine as it was way to loose but I didn't completely nip it up as the spindle started to bind?,maybe I need to carefully look at the gib again on crosslide but I think it was more the terrible sonic chatter i did actually see the tailstock hum away backwards down the bed doh!,thanks for all your advice ,live centre being ordered (think I have a centre drill!)

The test in the myford ml7 manual says to perform the test without a steady and have the bar protuding from the chuck about 4-6".However I feel to turn these collars on a piece of bar I have to have a steady in or else it's gonna deflect surely?,i know the finishing cuts are light for the test,but I still have to rough out the middle ?Ref grinding hss tools I did cover it in my apprenticeship years ago!,I'm just rusty on it!

I did check the crosslide gib ,but I only nipped one of the screws a little more and it was solid to turn so I left it as it was

I should add piece of steel bar was cut to size by myself with hacksaw,it's hard though I was being polite to my machine,but unless you took nearly nothing on a cut all it did was high pitch chatter,crap tool.grinder I think and am hoping surely it's not that namby?!

Edited By von dutch on 12/02/2021 00:00:14

The chatter was so bad and noisy I looked to the side and saw the tailstock sliding away from me🤣

Hi all,I'm having some problems doing the set up tests,to get my myford ml7 up and running.Ive been thorough and checked most things to the best of my begginer ability!.There appears to be little.wear on my machine,I've checked the spindle bearings with a dti on the register and a 12" long bar in the chuck,gave it a damn good wiggle and the only movement was .001",it runs smooth and quiet and the slides,saddle etc all operate smoothly with no binding anywhere on the bed.Now the fun bit,I've levelled the stand and bolted it to my concrete floor and now I am attempting to do the turning test on a piece of a bar.Ive ground a hss steel tool blank to make a turning tool,(probably not the best!),checked centre height it's ok.I can face the end of the bar but if I attempt to turn the diameter I should add its very hard steel it chatters like mad and I suspect my tool needs another look,and the bar itself appears to be deflecting it is 1" diameter steel 6" protruding from chuck.It doesn't like any sort of cut along its length and seems to "push" the crosslide away?! When I attempt to put a cut on,gonna have another go at regrinding a tool or am I using to tough a piece of steel for test ?

Thanks for the replys,interesting information

Once I've finished my antique rustic look lathe stand I want to turn some nice retro brass handles for the cupboards and drawers,can anybody recommend a decent starter tool?,the crosslide mounted ones look more rigid than the long side overhang ones? Thanks again.

Are the standard dials fitted to the super 7 resettable,or are they an upgrade item from myford as well?

You sir,are an absolute star thanks for sharing your information.

Stevegtr,that is superb,is that drawing the standard size of the super 7 dial,and photo of crosslide is standard super 7 as well ?,if so it looks like I could make a bush for the inside retap it for 5/16 thread on ml7,at brief glance?!

Yes my ml7 has the nut as part of the dial,older style,I,ve got new handles on order as the original ones badly rusted I was hoping there might be a way of putting resettable dials on as I was there,maybe then a super 7 dial could be fitted?

Also I wonder if there is no internal thread on the super 7 dial,is there enough "meat" on the Id to maybe ream it out and fit a threaded bush to fit the ml7,at least it would keep it factory ish?,any thoughts? possible?

Can someone enlighten me as to what is "ght",being a newbie?!,and mention of this article or supply a link to it?

Or ml10?!

Hi there does anyone know if the super 7 dials or ml7r ones can be modded to fit the ml7,as the price of the imperial genuine ones are daft if you can get hold of them!