Member postings for von dutch

Fair points,I was considering buying a tip tool but to be fair the hss one I've ground does work ok,I guess i just need to take my time,funny how you take for granted those old Colchester and Harrison lathes during the apprenticeship.

I did manage to part off at "middle" speed(not backgeared) on the ml7 it suffered more belt slip than anything else,still I guess if I changed the sectional belt for the standard vee belt it could have a chance of "dig in" then.

Thank you both, informative replays there.such a nice machine I think I'm on its limit.There was a viceroy denford for sale near me with all the tooling power feeds screwcutting gearbox etc really good price I was tempted but I've done so much to my lathe and took ages acquiring all the tooling.Maybe Ill keep eye for something similar in future.

Yes Ive ground my hss tool with relief like that I did attempt parting a piece 3" Aircraft alloy from a 5" block that I acquired!,I know that was probably beyond the limit of machine now but it was free and needed for a pulley.so really then parting or working on stock above 2" is probably the limit for this lathe? Is what I was beginning to think?

Yes I agree the rear toolpost works much better, although I can use one in the front but only really works well on small brass or ally,still I find it's a slow slow process!,I wondered if things would improve on a more rigid lathe like a boxford or viceroy?(can of worms there!🙄or are they too similar.

Hi people's,I've had my myford ml7 for a little while now, bought it cheap serviced it,performed maintenance and with the good help of people here on the forum got it to a state of good useful service.However parting off really grinds my ****,I find I have to have everything correct,sharp tool,correct geometry no overhang tight gibs,run slow with oil ( I still get belt slip/chuck stop)spindle has no play etc,and I still find I have to hope that eventually it will part off the material,this was 2" aircraft alloy with several plunges to make slot wider than the tool,3mm wide part off tool in rear toolpost.I have had success on smaller diameter work (hard steel as well )once I start trying to turn larger work 3" to 4" it gets a bit grumpy (could be the t link belt)stops the chuck etc light cuts blah blah takes forever.Its a lovely lathe and I have produced some good quality parts on it for my bsa project,but I wonder sometimes if I am pushing it's working limit.Be good to hear people's opinions/experience,forgot to add it does have a 3/4 hp motor as well.thanks Von.

Edited By JasonB on 22/10/2021 13:11:48

Thank you people's for all your information very helpful that is why I come on here,I will either make my own or may order above part.Many thanks to "Richard S2" as well for dimensions and pic,mine also is a 1950 ml7.

Ok chap,when you say similar part,it wasn't an ml7 toolpost stud then?,Ill probably take it apart and have a look just thought someone might no actual size.

Hi there,does anyone know the dimensions of the base of the tool post stud on a ml7,as in the part that goes up into the topslide not the shaft or thread size.Im fitting a quick change toolpost and the stud is different,so am going to turn up a base to press into the bottom of topslide threaded to suit new stud,if anyone knows the diameter would save me having to take it apart and back together before I make it!

Right another update I'd like to thank the above people that gave advice on my post,it would appear with a strip and clean of apron and half nuts along with setting the dial with washers spaced on the stud it now appears to be engaging everytime on the line and engages smoothly with no catch or bind .Very happy will cut thread on a test piece but feel more confident now thanks again people's very useful information 👍👍👍🤗

So to make the leadscrew sit agreeably with the half nuts at the same time as the dial engages on a line you adjust this with washers on the stud then ( I have 2 fibre ones on at present)?,out of interest it must be possible to align it all smoothly on such a well made machine? Or do you still have to jiggle it about?!

Right update I've had the apron off and inspected the half nuts full of crud some small bits of swarf stuck in there and some nasty old grease,stripped cleaned.Pleasntly surprised to see apart from a small burr there was little wear on them,reassembled the lot and it is a lot smoother,and the lever engages now with little effort,but am still finding it very difficult to fully engage the lever and catch it on a line it's as if something catches if I move the saddle handle a bit I can fully engage the lever but then I've missed the line 🤣 I did try another washer on the thread dial.Is it like a timing thing do I need to remove the apron again and re-engage on the leadscrew in a different place until it does freely drop the lever or am I reading to much into it🧐🙄

I shall try that thanks for your advice.

Hmmmm,I have just read on another post,I also have this issue,when I engage the lever the leadscrew does deflect a little as well,when i got the lathe the leadscrew was loose I had to tighten a few things up I don't what went on before

Do I need to remove the apron to inspect/clean the half nuts or can you remove nut on lever and get to them that way?

It is an imperial machine and I will be cutting an imperial thread,I will be running it slow as I don't want to scrap my part,I'll try some washers also,so in answer the the lines must exactly line up ?,you also have to "coax" the leadscrew engage lever sometimes as it won't just drop in every time(I don't want to force it) is that just normal wear I take it ?

Hello,I'm after some advice,I'm about to start a screw cutting job on my myford ml7,it's regarding using the little dial gauge.Silly question but when you engage the dial on a specific number I notice it's not that easy to select it bang on each time sometimes I may catch it after,but difficult to catch it in the same place each time,is this normal or maybe something needs adjusting or what people think? Thanks in advance.

Michael g ,I did look at that thread yes very helpful sorry I didn't comment i have been working nightshifts, making a rear tool.post , trying to fathom the chuck in-between , reading these posts and most importantly obviously keeping my girlfriend happy!.When I've finished the work in the chuck I think I shall take back plate off and have a look it looks very similar to the one in the link,also when I bought it I do remember thinking blimeys that's a thick backplate I reckon it must be at least 1/2".Thanks for your help people's.

I've had a brief look at backplate,it would be reduced to about 1/4" thickness for the jaws to clear the bed ways,I did wonder if an insert would have to be fitted very precisely,I might see if I can reduce the thickness of the backplate,do you think reducing it to 1/4" thickness is to much ?

I will measure when home from work