Member postings for William Ayerst

Sorry, I meant that a tool post with a four-way slot/etc. would be clamping the tool into the turrent, rather than clamping the tool against the topslide.

Yes, sorry - the one that's a big triangular clamp.

Is there any meaningful quality difference between the RDG and Myford-branded dickson-style toolposts? It looks very, very similar but the Myford one is >£50 more expensive. Is this just because it has the correct badge, or is it made differently/better?

Thank you!

Good morning gents, I've been sorting through the Ml7 parts that I've got stashed around pending it being reassembled on my new bench, and I was wondering - I've got a clog-style toolpost with the big clamp straight onto the topslide. In 'The Amateur's Lathe' the gent recommends this as a good start, but could potentially damage the topslide surface and so a more modern equivalent with a millled slot or what I'd know as a four-way toolpost is recommended.

I have three double-ended 1/2" HSS tool bits that have been ground by someone on a grinding wheel - indeterminate quality. I don't have a grinder myself (yet). Not wishing to cause potential wear on the lathe I've just bought, I am thinking that it makes sense to buy a new toolpost that clamps on the turret instead of the topslide.

I'm not overly fussed about a few minutes to spin a toolpost around so I'm not sure I need a quick-change variant, but if I could get any recommendations for what to buy - or indeed whether to stick with the original - I would be very glad to hear them.

Edited By William Ayerst on 30/10/2020 10:18:59

HA!

The guy who is building it for me is a good friend and has been welding and fabricating for almost 20 years doing this kind of thing so I trust him - I've supplied the lathe fixing dimensions and the risers/drip tray/etc/etc. and I'm going to leave the rest to his knowledge and wisdom, certainly more than mine (given that as you said, I had to ask for help). When it arrives, I'll be sure to post pictures - thank you!

Cheers,

Friend of mine is going to build me a bench out of welded steel box section to my spec, i.e. size/height with mounting holes for the lathe on crossmembers and a galvanised steel drip tray for £240 delivered in primer.

Much simpler!

Thank you all so much for your help, - I think I'm just going to buy a Myford stand or have someone weld me up something out of steel box section - this is too much bloody aggrivation!

Edited By William Ayerst on 28/10/2020 11:20:30

Gosh there just isn't a simple solution, is there? Thank you for the pointers on why I should specifically avoid that Clarke bench.

I had not thought about bolting together a bench out of steel angle, that may be a good bet.This kind of thing? (auction site item 301986013602) ? Are corners dealt with by diagonal braces, or the 'corner pieces' I see sold on the site also (they look a bit cheap!)

I see that Myford are selling a complete stand with risers, also.

Edited By William Ayerst on 27/10/2020 16:07:28

I don't know how to weld, or know anyone who does - so this particular bench will have to be off the shelf Is the heavy duty bench in the link above (65kg, steel, 1.5m x 600mm surface) OK?

Thank you for the advice - I'm not a member of costco sadly but I do get the picture.

Would this bench, with couple of layers of ply + alu sheet as a drip tray, be suitable? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb1201e-engineers-steel-workbench/ A more substantial version is available also: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb1500d-engineers-steel-workbench/

It looks like both might benefit from a cutout in the rear wall for the motor to slot through, but is already 2' deep so should be fine in width without it.

My thoughts are that I can build non-supporting cupboard out of ply and slot it onto the shelf below, rather than attempting to cut thick ply by hand (for now I have a decent enough work space but no panel/band/circular saw)

I was a bit worried that the cheaper one would be less rigid - but I guess if I'm going to end up putting a kitchentop ontop of it then that's fine.

The linked drawer cabinet actually looks pretty perfect - I was consideirng buying one with drawers to try and keep some of the moisture off my tools as much as possible. Would it be OK with the wheels though?

Thanks david, is that a bought cupboard? Do you have any front view pictures?

'not done it yet' , there are unfortunately no lathe stands anywhere near me at present, or they are half the price of the lathe itself.

How much of a terrible idea would it be to buy the cheap steel/chipboard workbench above, and replace the surface with a kitchen countertop? Is it going to be a complete waste of time and money, or will it do in the interim until I can source a proper stand?

Or maybe something more simple, like this - with a kitchen countertop ontop of it: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb300-heavy-duty-workbench/. ?

Having just bought one, I need to mount my ML7 somewhere. I've read various discussions which suggest different options and just wanted to sanity check my decision!

I'm going to be moving home soon, so a bench that can be disassembled and moved in a reasonable manner, given the other demands of house moving is somewhere on my priority list, albeit not at the top.

This is what I was thinking of: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb1500d-engineers-steel-workbench/ - if rigidity is found to be less than ideal, then there is carrying capacity to add a kitchen counter worktop or a 6mm steel plate (cut to size for about £100 inc. vat https://www.buymetalonline.co.uk/product/mild-steel-sheet/) ontop of the existing one.

Sealey sell the same bench, with the same weight but mark it as a 1000kg capacity so maybe the fixings can be upgraded.

I am also happy to build one out of 4x2 and bolts, but with covid being what it is, I have limited access to browse and 'pop out to grab something I've forgotten'.

Any thoughts?

So no 63 tooth change gear with the lathe but presumably I can buy one if required?

What brand should I be looking for, for taps and dies? Dormer? Presto?

Awwsome, so it's down to an SC3-400 or a Myford ML7. JasonB the lathe has the original paint with no movement on the tailstock/carriage, 5 thou on the top slide and 10 thou on the cross slide. Bed hasn't been reground but looks smooth and no indication of tight or slackness during the carriage travel.

By the way, it doesn't come with fixed/moving steady, a live centre or a collet chuck - which I would buy with the C3.

I think maybe 3.5" or Gauge1 loco or a 6" dia flywheel stuart is about the biggest I'd be after, capacity wise.

I've found a Myford ML7 local to me that looks to be in good nick, with a set of tools, change gears. Both 3/4-jaw chucks, faceplate, dead centre and jacobs chuck.

Is there a reason why I shouldn't buy it over a Sieg C3 or WM180?

So, my only thought was that the Myford doesn't have a screwcutting gearbox and a 8TPI lead screw, so I can only 'natively' cut 24/32/40 TPI threads so I figured it would make sense to stick with those kind of imperial threads - i..e I can screw-cut ME/BSF/UNF but can't cut BA or Metric threads as features on parts.

I am in the UK, and yes typically model engineering going forward. I'm hopefully going to be coming in to ownership of a myford ML7 sans screw cutting gearbox so I figure it was best to go with imperial threads. Maybe then, the 32 and 40 TPI ME? I specifically need the equivalent of an M5 or 10-32

Good afternoon gents,

I'm starting in my model engineering journey. All things being equal, is there any meaningful distinction between the two standards mentioned above? I have to 'pick one' to start my collection, the part I'm working on has no other interfaces so I can pick either. I would prefer not to use metric components as I have everything else in imperial.

It is my understanding that I should probably go with UNC/UNF due to the wider availability, but wanted to check.

Cheers,