Member postings for john halfpenny

Robert, I took off the internal circuit board cover to see if exposure would solve the problem; it didn't. I like the LED solution John- could either of you give a little more guidance. Presumably I need bulb, bulb holder and some sort of driver circuit? I can solder and wire components competently, but electronics is not my strong point. I guess it may even be cheaper to change for complete LED lamps?

I am an Engineer . C.Eng, F.I.Mech. E. These qualifications took time and much effort to obtain, and have served me well into a comfortable retirement. I know the worth of a good mechanic/fitter/millwright, and give them the status that they deserve - they are craftsmen, typically time served (as in fact I am), and should be better recognised by society. I am an average mechanic and machinist, and slightly better fitter, but these are not skills which an Engineer should be expected to excel in; the skill set is different. Bad and pompous Engineers exist everywhere, as do good machinists with an over inflated ego. Unfortunately, our leaders denigrate all technical skills - witness the current crisis - and prefer PPE from Oxbridge to real life ability. I have often thought the continental system better, where an appropriate level of qualification is recognised in the persons title, instead of plain Mr, Mrs, Miss or Ms. There, Engineers are Ing........, and other professions are equally recognised.

Some are vertical, and some horizontal. The latter, which are indoors, suffer more from self extinguishing, so I'll try some ventilation. I'll also check the contacts. Presumably one of the electrical components is acting as a heat sensitive switch?

I have a dozen of these inside and out. Some work just fine, but others switch themselves off after a period, seemingly at random. If I cut the power they work again after a few minutes rest - but go off again a few minutes later. A couple no longer work, but the interior shows no damage and the tubes are good.

Is this fixable? Pictures show the exterior, and the interior of a dead lamp (water ingress) with one tube missing. I don't expect to fix this one.

I realise the term can be widely used, but in my book this is an inapprpriate substitute (fancy word) for set and test. My experience is that calibration adjusts the inputs and outputs to be correctly correlated throughout a range, but this isn't possible for a micrometer, save the setting at only one distance.

Can you 'calibrate' a micrometer? Surely the thread pitch is determinative, so you can only set zero or maximum. Testing will show damage, twist or stiffness - at which point the thing either passes, or fails and is thrown away.

I like the forum as it is, and it is a little better than four others that I regularly use. Upgrades often mean that more computing power is required and/or more bandwidth, but with no great benefit or functionality to the user.

Don't apologise; the lathe can produce good work. The three jaw should have an external jaw set, which can be seen in the MM catalogue. These will hold 100mm with all of the jaws within the chuck circumference, so plenty of capacity for you ( and much more if the jaws protrude)

A thought about metal doors. I fitted an insulated roller door, and immediately missed the radiated heat caused by the morning sun (door is SE facing). Very noticeable that in the winter, the garage is always cold until I apply heat. Overall I suppose I am better off, but an effect I didn't anticipate. I do my work mostly early in the day, and now often open the door for direct sun.

You probably expect 101 answers. Mine, for shortish periods in a garage workshop, is a simple electric fan heater. Instant warmth without water vapour, and I find the moving air also helps.

Yes, I have a Newton Tesla drive - in green because it was bought from Warco complete with motor when they sold the same lathe. I have had it about 7/8 years, and it is a worthwhile improvement, makes the running very smooth and quiet.

The Clarke four jaw has three mounting studs in the back face of a mounting disc, the front of which has a 75mm male register to engage the chuck body. The front screws hold the body to the mounting disc. As I suggested, this may be the best way of adapting to a different four jaw. For completeness, the Clarke four jaw currently advertised has the four mounting screws on a much larger pcd than mine

Edited By john halfpenny on 04/11/2020 10:01:06

The Clarke four jaw has three mounting studs in the back face..

I'm not sure what Bazyle means by a screw thread, but I imagine you need a simple round with opposing male and female registers, and three peripheral through holes for the mounting studs. I've never seen such a thing, but it would be straightforward to make for someone with precision skills. I managed to find a four jaw on ebay, so you may get lucky.

I agree, and that is what I described Nigel. Same direction of rotation gives opposite relative direction at the contact point on a diameter, and hence max relative speed.

Today''s project was a tool post holder for my Dremel, in case I have need. My inclination would be maximum peripheral speed if grinding a diameter held in the lathe chuck. So Dremel and lathe at max speed in the same direction of rotation. Or is there a better approach? BTW, thread is 3/4 BSF.

Arc sell this adapter, and say the flats are used to twist it out with a spanner. The drawbar passes straight through to engage whatever is held in the open end.

My scrap material Bedair variation. Like Jason, made to suit centre height. The screw head sits in a cross slide tee slot.

Duncan Webster posted earlier about torque and work, but got it the wrong way round. Imperial torque is conventionally expressed in the UK as lb.ft, or more completely lbf.ft. Work is conventionally expressed as ft.lb.

I acknowledge that the Americans sometimes do it the other way round, but they are of course wrong!

I have a Ryobi One with drill, hedge cutter and rdciprocating saw heads. Lots of other heads available I like it. Recharge is very quick, so I manage with two small batteries, which keeps it light.