Member postings for john halfpenny

Not noticed any change in rigidity - mostly drilling, so no problem. It's a worthwhile mod if you lose some clearance due to a DRO, which you can see in my pics on the tailstock side of the saddle. Also, you may want to adjust the length of the screw to get full barrel travel - I pushed mine up from 35 to 50mm. I recall needing to fiddle with length of the screw to get the barrel zero mark aligned with the mouth of the bore when the barrel is fully reversed - not absolutely necessary, but satisfies my ocd.

Pictures show the block for the barrel clamp, and a spare screw which I made for a colleague with the same lathe, but havn't delivered due to lockdown.

john halfpenny on 29/01/2021 09:05:33

Edited By john halfpenny on 29/01/2021 09:07:34

Edited By john halfpenny on 29/01/2021 09:11:13

There was an article in MEW maybe 10 years ago which described one persons take. I did it slightly differently. The main casting is reversible on the bed, and the barrel bore is plain, so the barrel can also be reversed. You will need to substitute some M10 or M12 left hand thread (easy to get on ebay) to keep rotation of the tailstock handle in the same sense. The barrel clamp is moved to the top by adding a square block to the back of the tailstock housing and drilling a through bore down at the interface. You will need to lightly skim or file the casting flat where the block attaches. If you dismantle your tailstock, it should all be clear. Photos follow.

FWIW, I had a Hermes delivery from Leeds this morning, posted yesterday to Coventry.

The SM27 is a clone of the Clarke CL430/500. I fitted a common chinese QCTP, marked '250-100'.

I'm glad I read this post. My mill vice came with two blocks screwed to the back of the moving jaw. Now I know what they are and, to my surprise, they fit both the vice and the tee slot.

Reliant Scimitar SE6 and Mk 2 Mini 850 ( circa 1968)

It's a Fiat 125, not a 128, as shown by the twin headlights (or a Polski Fiat). The Lada was based on a Fiat 124.

Edited By john halfpenny on 08/01/2021 12:35:38

I don't think the fourth car has enough detail - it might be a Lanicia Flaminia. The interesting thing on the mystery car is that it has alloy wheels, so although the styling is 1964/6, it must be a little later. It looks like Pininfarina to me, and possibly a variation on a Ferrari Superfast, if not a Lamboghinin 400GT. The porthole feature is unusual.

BTW, the Herald is a standard 12/50 - 13/60 came later with a different grille

Edited By john halfpenny on 08/01/2021 11:26:04

The middle car is a Fiat 850, much smaller than a Maxi. The mystery car is much too big for a Fulvia, but is something along the lines of a Lamborghini 400GT - italian coachbuilt around 1964

Google images has plenty of shots of the standard bent tin guard - which can easily be extended or given a telescopic section. The standard length guard works quite well.

Stuart, these lathes were typically bought by the unknowing - never adjusted before purchase, and never set up after purchase, so they have a reputation of being sloppy and poorly made. You will find however that with proper adjustment, and there are many adjustment features, your lathe will likely work well and accurately.

There should be a screw to open out the slot and take up most of the backlash. It's in the other end of the photo - unless it's missing

Your first job will be to adjust the gibs, and take up backlash on screws at the split nuts. Then align the tailstock. Be sure to lock off the unused axes when turning. Plenty of advice on here if you get stuck. If you decide the steadies are superfluous, please pm me.

You could fix up a powered cross feed with a fork drive and a hand held battery drill; there's a solution for every demand. Please let us know how you get on.

It's basic but capable Stuart. Sell it on when you have learned. I suspect it will end up at £700-800. I certainly wouldn't buy one new - there are much better new options now, and a much wider range.

I think around £500 would be very fair. The toolpost and steadies have value. The bad points are lack of half nut, and high lowest speed. The latter is fixable, and there is an easy workaround for the former. Good points are a big swing, and a 1" through bore in the chuck spindle. Bear in mind that the Clarke showroom samples are not adjusted, so everything is loose - but mine works smoothly with little play or backlash; it simply takes time to dial out. The castings are rough, but it's bottom of the market - my experience is that the machining is fine. The Clarke four jaw is a massive thing, much bigger than the three jaw and twice as heavy. I have one, but I also have a 100mm four jaw for which I made a simple backplate - total cost less than £50. Too many folk make vague criticism and/or make unfair comparison with lathes of much better quality. I suspect you might pay £2000+ for a british benchtop lathe with the same kit and it's own disadvantages. Yourmoney, your choice.

You are getting a lot for your money. I doubt you would lose. I can't see the set of gears, and you will need these to power the leadscrew, and to cut threads. The stand is not the official one, but looks at least as strong. I would say it is a more recent one - say 10-15 years old - which are allegedly of poorer quality. The mill/drill is not very good unless taking very light cuts, and you will need a raising block to use it - but it works. It's a versatile machine, and there are workarounds for the few bits of compromised design. It's a bit of a faff to change speed, by changing belt pulleys, but on the other hand belt drive is fairly safe for a novice. Mine is 30 years old, and hasn't required any repairs or spares.

Bernie, I thought your question quite sensible. The very intemperate response deserves a forum ban.