Member postings for Robert Bowen-Cattry

Thanks for the replies gents, I didn't get a chance to call Tracy so have emailed them instead. Will report back when I get a response.

Possibly. I'm not sure if my lathe (WM180) can cut that thread, and I've never cut a thread that small before. However, I may potentially be making a few apertures so it seems to make sense to go the die route. Work smart and not hard.

Good suggestion, I will call Tracy tomorrow.

Agreed, I think (from what I read online) that's why the 7/32-40 was recommended. Also because other sight makers (Willaims, Lymans, etc) seem to favour this over the 12-40, so I could always make apertures for other club members if required.

However I still have the issue of where to get a 7/32-40 UNS die from without importing from the States. To answer my own question, I don't think I will be able to, unless I risk it with the ME equivalent.

Yes, Skinner states 12-40, however online reading suggested the 7/32-40 was more prevalent and would work.

Interesting, thanks Andrew.

I'm wanting to make some apertures to fit into a Skinner rifle sight. I was originally going to get the ME die, but some online reading suggested the pitch difference in the threads wouldn't work at all.

In terms of the application, it's going in a 7/32-40/12-40 hole on a sight fitted to a .44 magnum rifle. Although there will be significant recoil, if I can get the aperture tightened into the sight it should all be good.

Thanks gents.

I looked at Tracy Tools but as said they don't list the 7/32-40.

A bit wary of the ebay offering as it appears to originate from China.

Will look into the 12-40, might have to end up getting one from the States.

Good afternoon all.

My current project requires a 7/32-40 UNS die. All I can seem to find with a Google Search is ME dies, but as I understand the thread angle of these is 55, and the UNS is 60.

So the question is, does anyone know a UK based online resoure for UNS dies?

Cheers,

Bob

Thanks for all the advice guys, the project is now complete and I have my QCTP fitted.

The box that the QCTP came in is also perfect for storing the original tool post and slide when not in use (with a little modification to the foam) so that is now safely stored until needed.

Many thanks for all the advice gents.

I received the 110202 inserts and can confirm they fit so that solves that mystery. Warco came back to me but could not advise themselves what inserts would fit!

I have also ordered some HSS square bar and a white oxide wheel so that I can practice grinding HSS tools.

Cheers

B

Thanks guys.

I was thinking that a 5mm cut sounded ambitious on my little machine, but i will try a 2mm cut when the tips arrive and see how it gets on.

Jason, thanks for that, it was actually the TCGT inserts I was looking at. Out of interest, what sort of depth of cut are the TCMT designed for?

John, PM sent.

Thanks guys.

I will order a couple of the 110202 inserts and see if they fit, it's only around a fiver so not too much lost if they don't.

To be fair, I'm not completely sure if the tips are fully worn, being a newbie it's hard to tell. I noticed I was getting poor surface finish (well, worse than I was getting with a fresh tip) so switched them round. As said, no doubt as I get more experience I will damage them less. Generally I have been taking .25mm cuts, other than finishing passes of .5 or .10mm.

I did also pick up some HSS cutters from Warco but haven't really dabbled with then yet, might well be time to do so. I kinda like the idea of insert cutters though, seems easier to change a tip rather than sharpen HSS.

Thanks Emgee.

So I should be looking for the 11020* size/designation?

Bob

Good morning gents.

When I purchased my lathe from Warco I also picked up a set of their 10mm indexable lathe tools. **LINK**.

I am now looking to get some spare inserts for these as I have already worn a couple of them, however I'm struggling with the correct designation as this doesn't appear on the Warco site (you can buy spare tips from them but they are out of stock).

I have measured the inserts, they are10.5mm long at the cutting edge and 10mm long at the bottom of the relief angle. They are 2.5mm thick.

Without wanting to get into the letter codes, can anyone give me an idea on the number designation that seems to refer to size? I see online tips that are 09020* (I understand the * refer to nose radius) and 11030*, but these seem to span the actual size of my tips, hence my confusion.

As an alternative would I be better of forgetting about these lathe tools and getting something in the 12mm shank range with diamond shape tips, as these seem to be more numerous?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Bob

Thanks for the replies gents.

To clarify, I'm not getting rid of the top slide, it will be kept and stored when not in use. The main reason for my plan is to allow easier fitment of the QCTP. The Warco WM180 has a raised boss on the top of the cross slide which would either have to be removed, or the QCTP bored out to accommodate it.

Not iishing to modify either part this seemed like the best option, with the added bonus of improving rigidity.

The top slide can always be reinstated with the 4 way tool post as and when needed, its only two bolts. .

Edited By Robert Bowen-Cattry on 11/06/2021 09:11:36

Thanks for the replies gents.

Martin, going by the DRO the carriage handwheel moes in 0.02mm increments.

John, thanks for the link, that's extremely helpful.

Good afternoon all,

I am toying with the idea of removing the taper slide on my lathe and replacing it with a solid block to mount the tool post too.

There are a couple of reason for this, partly to improve rigidity (particularly as I don't think I will often use the taper attachment), but mainly to aid in the replacement of the 4 way toolpost for a QCTP.

I was thinking of using mild steel for this, but it occurred to me that maybe I could get away with using aluminium, or maybe I should be using something tougher like stainless.

What are peoples opinons on this?

Thanks,

B

Thanks gents.

Al, a very kind offer, I'm in NW London so probably a little too far to travel. Thank you for the offer though.

I just finished making my first part (from EN1A), it's to replace the cap head bolt to lock the slide. The finish isn't great and I managed to drill the hole for the handle part a little wonky, but it works and I'm really pleased with it.

Thanks for the advice gents.