Member postings for Jim Mason

"By law, a warning must be given for listed chemicals unless the exposure is low enough to pose no significant risk of cancer or is significantly below levels observed to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm."

How on earth can that clamp pose a 'significant' risk of exposure to anything. Totally nuts.

If that thinner black wire in the right of the photo on the switch is on a fifth switch connection then I'll bet pounds to pennies that is the supply to the NVR, and the NVR had gone to meet it's maker. A new switch should sort it.

Jim

I suspect this is something called a no volt relay that is not working. They are usually built into the start/stop switch and drop out if the mains supply is interrupted (so the machine doesn't auto start after a power interruption). It's a pointer if the unit only runs while you hold the start button down.

Can you post a picture of the on/off switches?

I've never heard of a Rotabroach but that looks the thing for me, I'll give that a go. Thank you all for your helpful advice.

Hello all,

I'm hoping you experts can point me in the right direction. I have some 3mm 304 stainless steel laser cut plates that I fix 24mm OD bearings into. These are lasercut with the hole undersize, and currently I open the hole out using a 24mm blacksmiths drill with a 12.5mm shank so it fits in the mill chuck. This isn't brilliant as it deforms the steel and results in a loose fit. If I could go through with an end mill instead the finish and fit are much better.

I only have up to 16mm collets, and it looks like a 24mm cutter with 16mm shank is as rare as hens teeth. Does anyone have any alternative solutions that might work?

This is all to be done on an SX3 mill with MT3 taper.

I have taken the motor apart this morning and cleaned the commutator. The live crimp connector to the brush holder was corroded and not particularly tight so that has had a seeing to as well. At some point in the past the brushes have worn or burnt away completely which has resulted in some damage to the commutator. Some of the fingers have almost fused over the gaps from heat damage so I've made sure none are touching their neighbours. On putting it back together it is running significantly better, no hunting, starts first time and no sparking!

Thank you both for your advice.

Thanks Andrew, I've sort of tried that by using a fibreglass scratch brush as I can't access the commutator very easily. It might have made it better for a few days but that also might have been wishful thinking. I'll have a look this morning and see if I can take it apart and have a better go.

I have a SX3 mill that is getting on a bit now, it is on its second dc brushed motor that gets through brushes quite quickly. It sparks a lot intermittently (around the brushes I think) and quite often will not start until it is run backwards a rev or two, After which it will start forwards. It will occasionally just stop. It will restart again at low speed but doesn't like higher speeds any more.

I can get a motor from China (I think I bought the last one in the Uk 4-5 years ago) but it isn't cheap, is this likely to be the motor or could the controller be causing the issues? I can't get a controller and I'd rather not spend many beer tokens on a motor if the controller could be the issue.

Any advice gratefully received.