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Member postings for Martyn Nutland 1

Here is a list of all the postings Martyn Nutland 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Vintage Austin Brake Adjuster
10/07/2023 15:18:37

Duncan

That's basically what I needed to know and as you have observed the offset doesn't to be very much. I probably made a mistake in that I didn't use the large ( all things are relative ) four jaw independent I have. But I still have enough to move the axis. Point taken about silver solder. That's why you should use it for petrol pipes so it doesn't melt in a fire! As you say fine in this context.

Thanks again. Martyn

10/07/2023 14:23:20

Hello Again All

Thank you so much for the responses. Such a diversity I'll respond by name if I may.

Nick - exactly. BK20.

Michael - that's the adjuster outside the chassis side rail that you use to adjust (as best you can!) the back brakes. Remember, we're discussing the uncoupled version where there's no connexion between front and back!

Duncan - Not quite sure how you would use the 'long thin tool' as I think you'd be entering the work on the centre line (axis). So would you be using the four jaw to offset and create a different axis? That said - the cheat is brilliant. I'd thought about it. I guess many people would throw their hands up in horror at the suggestion of silver solder on a brake part. But I think brazing would be absolutely fine.

Speedy - That's for coupled brakes and I have a box full. Interestingly, I modified one to use on the pivoting plate of the uncoupled system. It works, but it's too thick to allow the plate (clearance between it and the chassis member) sufficient movement to pull the brakes on. Date and model not relevant here, of course, as pre 1930 A7s had uncoupled brakes (remarkably!) PS Radiator cap worked out fine. It's certainly not perfect, but the very uninitiated probably wouldn't know it's not 'factory (or some factory) and it's better than the 'ole.

Old Mart - If it's not too much trouble and you forgive me being daft; could you talk me through?

Thanks again everyone.

Martyn Sunny/hot in Paris. No riots!

Thread: Crown Tools
26/02/2023 14:54:52

Noel. Thanks for your cautionary note. I have come up against this before. My Chester Super B probably does not have the torque to drive a form tool. I'm sure you're right, hence the graver..

As to the MH 701 baler comment. I really don't wish to be boring or set a thread bare hare running again, but, to come clean, it is for an Austin Seven (crankshaft) pulley, and with 2mm deep flanges on either side do I really need the crown to keep the fan belt on?

26/02/2023 11:20:41

Howard

Indeed they did. Early Rosengarts are Austin Sevens built under licence by Lucien Rosengart after he left Citroën. Likewise Dixis (aka BMWs) built in Germany!

And so the the 'crown'. Thank you everyone. I think we are looking at a kind of form tool here that I had considered a possibility. Also I think the grooves at the side would be helpful; I had thought that may be the way to start.

Many, many thanks for the advice.

Martyn

26/02/2023 09:31:03

Hello

I wonder if I might ask some advice on pulley crowns? I've been watching David Richards's on the steam powered macine shop create these on line shaft pulleys. He turns left and right tapers then blends the two with a file. This seems an excellent and effective approach. But the crown I need is on a small (60mm diameter by about 15mm wide) aluminium part. I'm not sure the best way to do this - whether the opposing tapers method would work?

Many thanks for guidance.

Best as always from sunny springtime in Paris.

Martyn

Thread: Internal Chamfer
18/09/2022 13:27:46

Jason

I did. And penetrate 10mm - or so.

Martin

Thanks for the point on directions. Will take on board if I go that way.

Martyn

18/09/2022 13:01:00

Hello All

I'm progressing the cardan block I was telling you about a week or so ago. At the moment in aluminium so I can make sure I can perform all the procedures in a logical sequence. But I was wondering if you would be good enough to advise on one operarion.

I need an internal chamfer (bell-mouth if you like) at the shaft end of the 38mm diameter through hole. Rather obviously, this is because the block is secure on the front of the torque tube and needs clearance to move up and down on the cardan shaft (running more or less level and solid from the gearbox) as the axle itself rides up and down.

The chamfer needs to be about 45° and extend into the through hole about 10mm. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg(!) and wonder if I hold the workpiece on the mill on my rotary table and rotate it against a 45° chamfer mill running in the spindle, will that work? And is it a realistic approach?

One liners (hopefully polite) perfectly acceptable!

Best as ever from a suuny sprintime morning in Paris and very many thanks and good wishes in advance.

Martyn

Thread: Cardan Block
28/08/2022 12:59:01

Jason/Howard

My thinking. That's the way I need to go.

Many thanks

28/08/2022 08:52:07

cardan 2.jpg

I'm needing to make a cardan block to replace this scrap one (photos below - I hope). I think the machining is fairly straight forward but I would like to ask the experts two questions, if I may.

The slots/grooves need to be cut pretty accurately and I'm wondering what is the best way? I can see one approach might be to broach them, but I don't have any broaches, and even if I did, I don't think my one ton bench press would push a sufficiently sized broach through.

Can I do it with a slot drill(s) or end mill(s) working vertically and outwards from the through hole?

Secondly when it comes to making the bronze cardan blocks - they sit on a pin in the end of the cardan shaft and must slide freely in the slots - what is the best way? I'm thinking the simplest (though not the most economical) might be to start with a disc the same diameter as the depths of the two grooves plus the diameter of the through hole and about the required length as the blocks. Then, cut away the top and bottom of the disc to leave a flat piece of bronze the height of the blocks and remove the centre portion to achieve the bocks thickness. This seems likely to have a better chance of success than trying to accurately trim and shape a piece of square bar to slide along the curved wall of the groove?

Any suggestions/advice/encouragement, as always, most gratefully received with many thanks in advance.

Martyn

PS One word answer to 'buy the blocks'. Brexit. I won't expand for fear of being 'modded off'.

cardan 1.jpg

Thread: Arbor Press
27/06/2022 18:06:17

Yes. And we didn't break the glass!

M

27/06/2022 16:39:21

Thanks Noel thanks Jim

Yes, I've just demonstrated this to my wife in the kitchen with an onion, whisky glass and my fist. The arbor (fist) delivers the ton to the bearing (onion) to push it into; for example a hub (the glass). Thus the force is on the onion not the bench.

Thanks again.

Martyn

27/06/2022 15:29:22

I apologise for what I think is a daft question, and even my flakey maths suggests I know the answer....but to be sure.

I've bought a one ton arbor press. I don't need a bench that will take a one ton down-force on which to mount it, do I?

Thanks in advance

Martyn

Thread: Clutch pedal
01/04/2022 13:40:19

Thanks so much for the very prompt replies.

Yes...I'm coming to settle on the interupted cut approach. Reduce the area first with saw cuts; then shape it on the lathe.

Exactly as in the picture.

Imperial dimensions, of course. BSF on the early models BSW towards the end of production.

Thanks again everybody

Martyn

01/04/2022 11:54:44

Hello Everyone,

I wonder if someone could advise me as the best way to do the following?

I'm making a clutch pedal for an Austin Seven. Before we start, let me say, I do realise the easy way is to buy one from an autojumble or the 'usual suspects', but Seven addicts will appreciate that while the Ruby type pedal that secures with a pinch-bolt are two-a-penny, the earlier cotter-pin secured variety are much rarer hence my approach.

For machining simplicity, I elected to make the pedal in four pieces. A boss to fit the spindle where it emeges from the gearbox; the lever, the pedal stalk and the foot-pad. I've cut a boss 35 x 35 x 40mm from mild steel, radiused the corners for appearance and drilled a hole (about 15mm diameter) to slip over the spindle, plus a cross hole for the cotter pin.

The difficulty is there's a round section (collar if you like, about 20mm O/D) on the gearbox side of the boss. This takes the return spring - the coil fits over the round part and one end passes around the lever and the tail locates in a small hole in the gearbox casing.

How can I best make the round section on the boss? I've thought of holding the rectangular piece in a four jaw chuck on the lathe and doing an interupted cut; I thought, perhaps setting it up on a rotary table and rotating the block against an end mill, but I don't have a four jaw chuck for my rotary table; or perhaps shaping it on a belt sander?

As always, expert guidance would be very much appreciated.

Best, as always from snowy Paris! Martyn

Thread: A Tale of Two Indicators
15/01/2022 07:42:03

Glad you were interested! I too thought the probes would be interchangeable.

Martyn

14/01/2022 09:48:14

A few of you may remember that last July members were good enough to comment on the cheapo coaxial dial indicator I had bought. It had a dangly probe and as such was quite useless. You might further recall that I compounded its uselessness by snapping the probe holder.

Having recovered it from the bin I managed to get it working by machining a new holder that was sufficiently thick to be gripped by the instrument's beam (See 'Limp Probe' if you're interested.) But to be honest, my replacement was not as elegant or accurately shaped as the original.

It was then that Jason, on this forum (16/7/21) suggested that if I had shortened the clamping screw on the beam (to modify the point where it 'topped out', or fitted shims on either side of the holder, all might have been well. But, of course, I had already broken the holder!

As it happens, MSC Industrial in the US stock the holder that fits all these Chinese(?) indicators at $9 (I wonder whay!), but rather unhelpfully they won't send them to Europe. However, through great generosity, Tom Lipton of Ox Tool video fame, bought me one and sent it to France.

Lesson number one: The spare is no better than the original. PLEASE NOTE IF YOU CONTEMPLATE BUYING THESE INSTRUMENTS.

I now implemented Jason's shimming idea - I baulked at the screw-shortening as a bit fiddly. Fiddly! F-i-d-d-l-y! Try shimming the holder in the beam to discover what fiddly really is. It took me about two hours but with a 0.016" shim you can get sufficient tension - a bit too much, actually - to pre-load the probe i.e. it ceases to dangle uselessly. I subsequently got a flicker through about 0.01" on the needle when sweeping round an Austin Seven cylinder bore with the mill running at 100 rpm. (Thanks again to the forum on the advice on coaxial speed). This was about the same accuracy I achieved with the holder I made used around the inside of an A7 piston skirt.

ALL THIS SAID, I bit the bullet, as I suggested I might, and bought off ebay a used Blake Economy (god knows how old). It cost $200 plus taxes etcetera. What a difference! Straight-out-the-(patinated)-box, conspicuouslly smoother action and very slight flicker of the needle between two 0.005" graduations. Only two probes mind you, as opposed to about eight with its chinese cousin! And no special (crappy) spanners....or gibberish instructions or pedigree from someone who'd probably never seen it.

Lesson number two: You do get what you pay for; so pay the money.

Tip: Might be worth setting up on a cheapo and fine tuning on a decent instrument.

Best from Martyn for a peaceful and healthy 2022.

Thread: Tolerance
01/01/2022 15:13:12

May I wish everyone on the forum who has helped me a peaceful 2022, but above all, good health.

A simple question, I hope! I need to fit two bronze bushes to a road spring eyes. I'm not sure whether we will be talking 'press' or 'force' fitting, but I don't think ther terminology is vital (forgive me). I'll be drawing the bushes in with a nut, washers and through bolt.

What I really need to know is the over-size for the bushes and, if possible, the formula. The eyes are 14mm ID plus or minus about 0.4 mm. I do have Machinery's Handbook but find interpreting it a bit difficult.

Many thanks in advance and, once again seasonal good wishes to all.

Martyn

Thread: Turn Of The Screw
21/11/2021 07:22:27

Thank you everybody.

I really like Noel's special tool, but it would be a bit of an extravagance for two bushes!

I think, in this instance, Graham's idea of the radial groove at the grease entry point has to be the way to go.

Again, very many thanks.

Best, Martyn from a grey and chilly Paris.

20/11/2021 12:09:59

Hello Everyone

I wonder if someone could advise me on the simplest way to cut an oil/grease scroll.

I'm making some bronze king pin bushes. I want to carve a helical scroll through them to facilitate the distribution of lubricant. The bush itself will be about 20mm long with an I/D of around 13mm and a wall thickness of approximately 3mm.

I'm thinking of putting the bush in the lathe chuck, putting a sharp boring tool in the tool post, turning the chuck by hand and advancing the tool with about 1mm depth of cut. I'd like to do it in one pass.

Do we think that will work?

Thanks, as always in advance.

Best Martyn

Thread: To Cap It All
29/08/2021 07:56:20

This is all wonderfully illuminating...and all to do with something very simple (ostensibly). I'm gratified that we all broadly agree an approach.

I find on the internet there's a company (in the US) called Sealcon that have thread adaptors that have a female PG29 thread at one end. That ought to get us half-way there. I haven't contacted them yet and there may be other suppliers closer to home.

If Bob so generously wants to provide a bit of marine bronze here in France I'm at

4 Place de l'Eglise, 80150 GUESCHART (it's on the Somme) I can pay in France no problem - UK, not so straightforward I'm afraid.

Thanks again for all the info.

Martyn

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