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Member postings for Ronald Morrison

Here is a list of all the postings Ronald Morrison has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: ML7 Genuine Gears vs Replacement
10/05/2020 11:55:24
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 10/05/2020 10:22:59:
Posted by Jeremy Upton on 09/05/2020 19:44:02:

...

I have have a Myford ML7R which ... did not come with a full set of standard gears. ... I purchased a used genuine vintage Myford set off an auction site only to find nearly half of them appear to have a lot of wear/loose mesh.

...

Any chance of photos please? The 'genuine vintage Myford' gears may be nothing of the kind, or badly worn.

Although there's much to be said in favour of Myford lathes, they're not immune to wear and tear or any of the other bad things that happen to old tools over several decades.

Worse, because Myford's reputation attracts buyers like starving wasps to jam, grotty machines are tarted up, or badly assembled from cannibalised wrecks, and good machines are separated from their tools and accessories to bump up profits. How good a refurbished machine is depends on who did it, and there are some right bozos out there!

The problem extends to spares. Myford parts are imitated and counterfeited, and - allegedly - modern parts from the current owner aren't as good as the originals. There's even stuff sold mentioning Myford in the description that has nothing to do with Myford! Plus an enthusiastic market for Myford spares sourced from breakers, car-boot sales, and deceased workshops; the state of these varies from junk to as-new, plus fakes.

When faced with an engineering problem, best to eliminate possibilities. At the moment, it could be the gears aren't Myford at all! But that's pessimistic: another simple possibility is the gears aren't being assembled on the banjo correctly, which is easy to fix when you know how.

Though Jeremy's four questions may become valid later, I suggest concentrating on:

'What's wrong with these gears in this set-up?' (Picture needed.)

Provided they can be made to mesh, change gears don't have to be high-tech. Their purpose is just to generate a ratio, and even crudely made and worn gears perform. Ugly noisy gears spoil pride of ownership though, and many people work best with tools they like, and are irritated by minor imperfections. No point in owning tools you hate! If that's the problem with these gears, the only thing to be done is try again. I don't know of a guaranteed way of buying a set of perfect original ML7 change gears other than by inspecting them first.

Dave

Some of us on the west side of the Atlantic are using 3D printed plastic gears for our change gears. They are cheap as dirt to print and with minimal CAD skills we can create gears with any number of teeth to fit any diameter of shaft. The plastic gears have different wear characteristics than metal gears which may be an advantage but in any case, once the gear is designed and the CAD file saved, one can remake any of the plastic gears for pennies.

Thread: Plillow block bearing assemblies for layshaft
07/05/2020 12:21:51
Posted by Adrian R2 on 07/05/2020 11:44:38:

I've got some similar to these. I think the nipple only lubricates the swivel that copes with shaft misalignment, the actual bearings I suspect are pre-greased and sealed.

Edit, on the other hand if you google the serial number for the insert there does appear to be a feature that could be a hole into the race for lubrication....another new thing learned.

Edited By Adrian R2 on 07/05/2020 11:50:48

There are bearings with the grease hole through the outer race but you don't buy that kind of bearing for the price listed. at least on the western side of the Atlantic. I would expect to have to pay 5 to 10 times that amount for that feature in the bearing as it would be made for a much more demanding application.

Thread: Lathe tool types
05/05/2020 11:51:02

I rarely use a left hand tool in my lathe. About the only time I find it necessary is if I need to turn a piece with a smaller diameter in the middle and then I use it to cut toward the tailstock end to clean up the cut. Most other operations work well with the right hand cutters.

Many of the carbide tool are not as sharp as can be had with HSS as the carbide, while harder, is usually more brittle and easily chipped. For light cuts on a small lathe you can use a diamond hand stone to put a sharper edge on them but be careful not to chip them then.

Thread: Boring tooling
04/05/2020 23:49:54

Unless you have a specific need for the fly cutter, skip it and don't lose any sleep over it. It's faster for flattening a big surface but a good endmill will get the job done too.

Thread: Gear Cutting
01/05/2020 17:40:45

What will the tooth load be on the gear? If it is low enough like in the geartrain of a lathe where you want the ratio to be correct but the load low a 3D printed gear works pretty well. For power transmission with a higher tooth load then metal would be needed.

Thread: Cutting small gears.
01/05/2020 17:38:12
Posted by Steve Crow on 01/05/2020 17:17:07

That is interesting, There is quite a wide variety of small size solid carbide end mills available, although a bit more expensive.

How many flutes would you recommend for HSS? It looks like 3 in the photo. And cutting speeds? Doesn't carbide like a high speed. But with HSS?

Any hints or tips welcome.

it isn't so much that carbide likes high speed it is more that it can work at the higher speeds because it doesn't lose its temper at the higher temperature. The number of flutes matters more with softer material as you can take deeper cuts and that can fill the space between the flutes. You need a way to evacuate the chips faster with the softer material so a single flute or 2 flute mills work better on aluminum than a 4 or 6 flute mill would.

Please, someone with more experience correct me if I am giving grossly wrong info.

Thread: Increasing Print Area
29/04/2020 10:44:58

In the newest version of Cura you would choose the printer you have in the setup section and it will set the build table size automatically. With a little digging you will be able to find this setting and make changes to the build table size. Do so with care, prints will not come out like you intended if the print head or table hit the end of their movement as the stepper motors will chatter a bit and then assume they are at the right location while they are not.

Thread: DRO Flashing
25/04/2020 11:20:03

Corrosion that you can't see may also be the cause. Try cleaning the contacts well before throwing out either battery.

Thread: Drummond M type drive and parts query
24/04/2020 12:49:55

Many years ago I brazed up a new tooth for a motorcycle gearbox where one was broken off. I filed it to rough shape and it worked for the time I had the cycle but the tooth shape wasn't perfect and it made a ticking noise. It was still working when the motorcycle was stolen.

Thread: Boxford change gears for screwcutting.
24/04/2020 12:45:42

I've used this website to calculate different gear combinations to make specific threads.

Threading calculator

Thread: Boxford C Lathe
23/04/2020 12:02:16
Posted by Steve Jones 20 on 23/04/2020 10:52:28:

Now that I know where the correct position is with all the various levers all seems to be great so I can forget about a reversible motor to change the direction of the spindle as I don’t need that anyway now that I’m beginning to understand what I want to do with the lathe and how a lathe works.

You may not need the spindle to reverse now but being able to do so becomes a valuable tool if you need to make threads right up to a shoulder or threading into a blind hole. Being able to start at the shoulder and thread away from it is much easier and safer than trying to retract the threading bit while stopping the carriage advance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1DHKjMtdQw&t=2s

 

Edited By Ronald Morrison on 23/04/2020 12:04:53

Thread: Anyone Got a Warco WM240B?
15/04/2020 21:17:21

I just checked something on my lathe as I was getting a step when I tried to cut from both ends. I cut one end, turned the stock around and leaving just enough sticking out to run the dial indicator on found the runout and the location of that. I loosened the chuck and started slipping different feeler gauges in where the indicator showed the lowest, then tightening to check the runout. Eventually I got the runout to nearly zero. When I then turned the second end there was no step noticeable. I don't have a 4 jaw for that lathe so this is a poor man's way to compensate.

Thread: Looking for a machine, what to buy?
15/04/2020 20:58:27

There are so many things to consider when looking for a mill. Physical size, will it fit into the space available and still have room to work. Table size, will you be able to fit the projects you have in mind onto it with room to secure the project in place. Power, how fast and deep and wide of cuts will you be making. The motor needs to be able to handle that with some to spare. The weight of the machine, how will you get it into the space you plan to have it. Will it be rigid enough to do the job you intend. How will you control it being a CNC mill? Do you have power outlet for that part too? How about the space that control will need? How fat is your wallet? Can you afford new or will used have to do?

Thread: Printing clock wheels...?
09/04/2020 23:55:37

Another item to consider is the extruder temperature. Not all PLA works well at the same temperature.

Thread: 3D printer recommendations
04/04/2020 10:27:44
Posted by Tony Jeffree on 03/04/2020 23:21:14:

I've printed 9 today, no raft, direct onto the Ender's heated glass bed. I'm finding that mostly they stay stuck, but release by themselves as the bed cools at the end of the job. Only one failure - one of the arms came unstuck and there was no option but to abort the print. The first one I printed onto a raft but it took twice the material and twice the time, and parting it from the raft wasn't clean or easy.

I've occasionally had trouble with a print coming loose from the bed too. I increased the extruder temperature by 5 degrees and the problem seems to be solved. With a glass bed the surface needs to be cleaned with an alcohol solution sometimes too. It's easy to touch it with your hand when you remove a print and transfer just a little skin oil.

Thread: Recent conversions of Warco WM18 to CNC?
02/04/2020 23:05:57
Posted by Bandersnatch on 28/03/2020 15:34:09:

OK, I'll ask the question ... how do people "machine the table". Second mill? Take it to a friend?

i've seen people mention using a mounted stone with their Dremel tool to enlarge the pocket on the table to hold the ball nut.

Thread: Suitable stepper motor for CNC
27/03/2020 11:39:46

Stepper motors are listed by size and by the torque they produce. Size matters for the space you have for mounting them. Torque matters as that is what determines whether the motor can turn the load. I've chosen motors that have a little less torque than I wanted for the project but I had sufficient room to offset the motor and use a timing belt. That allowed me to put a 20 tooth pulley on the motor and a 40 tooth pulley on the shaft giving me nearly double the torque (minus a little belt loss) but cuts the maximum speed in half. Estimate the required torque and speed and then choose the motor that fits the space and fits the other requirements.

Thread: How to fit a new gasket to oil bath table feed?
25/03/2020 09:29:46

You may have a leak because the oil you refilled with is too thin or the wrong oil. Worm gears require a specific oil because of the rubbing action.

The suggestions of using an instant gasket type material is a good one but use it very sparingly. Someone used a lot of it in reassembling one of my engines and that gasket material squeezed out everywhere. Externally that wasn't a problem but it wasn't good inside the crankcase.

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