Member postings for Me.

Thanks Andrew - I should have said at the very beginning my aim is to make lots of ...... swarf ...... ! and just have fun trying different things - no real objectives just trying to get the things I need to progress.

I think I have decided on the SOBA 6" table with extra plates - I think this will suit my basic needs for now.

Let the Swarf making begin.....

Its the answer "42"

Edited By Me. on 16/02/2021 14:34:02

So - if I'm reading this correctly - a plank of wood and a sharp nail will do If I draw a straight line between 3 points and divided the 1st number i thought of by the square route of Pi..... or would a rotary dividing plate table be the answer to my original question....

Thanks for all the input - I'm sure my question got answered.

KTF

Thanks - This Newbie always likes the gentle replies.

As it was "I" that started this thread with the now "banned" snappy title of "Confused DOT com, whats the difference between."...... I must apologies profusely for my shameful woful excuse of a title.

I will have to think of less intriguing titles for my threads.

Science is a wonderful thing - some claims have more fact that fiction - scientific theories claimed by the uninformed are sometimes false..... IYKWIM.

For those interested - I am looking for a rotary table - it seems to be the best beginner option.

It has been scientifically proven that the more obscure a thread title the more views it will get -- curiosity is a wonderful thing.

It made you look ......

Thanks everyone for the complete and comprehensive replies - I will look out for a rotary table that will work with my Mill.

Sorry about the original title - I didn't realise it would make things confusing for others.

Is a rotary table the same as a dividing head - can a rotary table be converted to be used as a dividing head, and if so is just a case of getting the plates.

I don't think its that, as the next supplier I try does stock that item - for example I need a arbor for a boring head - it has the 1 1/2 x 18TPI thread - a common boring head i suspect - mine came with a MT2 (tang) arbor I want to use a ISO/BT 30 arbor. One supplier sells the arbor the other doesn't. They have all the other types including the boring head but don't supply all the different arbors to suit. They do sell a whole new item - boring head and INT 30 arbor but not separately.

I just thought someone might know of a tool supplier that held a larger stock base.

Edited By Me. on 12/02/2021 09:12:09

Thanks for all the replies - unfortunately no ME clubs where i am to join or rummage unused tools.

Ive tried Arc and RDG and unfortunately they don't hold (ALL) the items in stock - either they will have 3 or 4 things and then the other 5 items I need are not stocked by them, so I will try the other and they might have 6 out of the 10, but not the same cross over of parts.

I must have spent £70 on postage in the past 2 months getting what I need from 4 or 5 different suppliers.

I'm not sure if it is a supply stock issue as it seems when I enquire if they stock the part ive had replies of - "no, sorry don't stock those" or "very little demand for those so we don't stock".

Ebay is not that easy to get the tools either - most searches turn up with re-sellers sites, who don't actually stock the part they just buy it from the supplier when you place the order, or China based sellers or worst of all UK, based tool agents with in my opinion way over priced second hand items.

Ive not been into this for long but i quickly realised that old tooling is just that - old and worn, with all the will in the world a 50 year old lathe chuck will have been used - A LOT - so why sell them for the same price as you can get and new one.

I'm sure there are some low use items which would be worth taking a punt on but they are few and far between.

Rant over - Thanks

or as it seems many places for the things I need......

What am I on about - well basically trying to get all the bits and pieces I need together to get myself set up.

My machines came with some tooling, some of it quite nice and usable but a lot "tired and used".

I put a small shopping list together to get the bits I needed but unfortunalty all the tool suppliers I have been using never have all the things I need.

Ive tried 3 of what you might call "the big boys" (mostly initials and a Greek sounding time keeper).

Unfortunately they don't have all the bits i need in one place and hunting around each site to pick up the things is costing me a fortune in postage.

I have a budget to spend each month on picking up the items but every time I think i'm getting somewhere with the items I get knocked back by "not listed" or "not stocked here".

Is there a one stop shop or is that too much to ask.

For what its worth and i'm just a beginner also

1 - internal thread

2 + 3 internal facing/boring

4 - internal up to a shank

5 - external facing up to a shank

6 - same (not sure why the different angle to the tip)

7 - Facing - chamfering

8 - parting

9 - external threading

in all my "3 months of learning" all the boring bars ive seen have been round shanks -

I'm sure a more experienced user would shed more light.

Its alive - and works perfectly.

Took my first cuts last night and its very stable. I machined a few bits of mild steel with a nice and sharp brand new end mill. Only took 10thou cuts to start, slowly built my confidence and went for a 25thou cut at 15mm deep. Looks good.

The fun begins.

Thanks for all those that helped with the new switch wiring it works perfectly and now no chance to put the motors into reveres by mistake.

HI John

Sorry for the confusion with the messages but I hadn't read your original post as was not sure who or what was going on with the random message.

I think you had the same problem as I did - the odd in-between taper size - the HERBERT taper.

I have an old Herbert taper tool you could try in your spindle, then at least you will know if it is that you need.

As mentioned in another post - I brought a BT40-BT30 taper adapter and turned the outside down to match my Herbert taper spindle - I guess it was more luck that judgement that helped me out as I don't think the way I did it was the best way but it worked and it is a spot on modification - If that is the technical word for it.

If you don't feel you want to attempt the turning then I am more than willing to help make another - the adapter was only £25 or so from ARC Eurotrade - I still have the measurements and jig Made to hold the adapter.

If you want me to send you the original taper tool then let me know - then at least you will know if it is the Herbert Taper you need.

FYI and as far as I have worked out with research the Herbert Taper is in between the 30 and 40 BT taper but not a BT35 - it has the same taper angle as the 30 but obviously fatter at the gauge line. by a few MM's

Buy a BT40 to BT30 adapter from ARC. Take time on a Lathe to machine it down to the right taper and job done - I did mine that way.

Adcock back in use - Give it a go, you'll be surprised.

Info - for those interested in my dilemma -

I have 3 jaws - 2 of them have 32617 both stamped 3. these don't fit very well and are a little tight. I have tried these in the 3 position on the chuck and also in the 1 and 2 position.

I have another stamped 42542 stamped 2 and is a nice fit and runs nice and smooth.

The chuck has "Pratt Type No 358L" label on it.

All 3 jaws are the same dimensions.

I am considering

1- a new chcuk

2 - a set of jaws to fit my chuck

3 - a different hobby

4 - the will to live longer than my next project.

Come to think of it that is the number stamped on mine - I think - do you have magic wand that could reverse the jaws....

Hi All - thanks for the replies

1. I have finished my Spur gear modification

2. I have tried the jaws (external) I have in my chuck and they are nice a smooth apart from the last inch towards the centre.

3. Yes they have part numbers on - I will post what they are later

4. I will post dimensions

5. No - the chuck or the jaws have not been tampered with.

I will post more info tomorrow.

Thanks

That is a good idea I will try to insert the jaw at a different place on the spiral maybe it will get almost there and then I could - regrind the jaws !!!! - or is that owned upon.

I did note that when the jaws were going in it did tighten up as they got closer to the middle like something was binding.

Thanks - I'd like to stick with my 8 inch job. I'm sure something will turn up.