Member postings for Me.

FYI - the ring is threaded with a 47 mm x 1 mm thread - Inner hub is left handed thread the outer is right handed = to hold it into the bearing housing - the outer edge holes are there for weight saving and also a special tool is used in the holes to tighten the ring into the housing - hence the need for he holes - if i use every other hole there is still a hole to use the special tool in to tighten the ring.

I could post a pic but were getting away from my original post- I just need a good supplier of odd sized hardware in the UK - the concept has been planned and all variables considered - its just the bolts with the desired pitch which is proving the sticking point.

The spacer ring is approx 100mm in dia with 26 equally spaced 8mm holes already drill approx 12mm from the very outer edge increasing the size of the hole to the next best thread pitch isn't an option the ring is made of a titanium alloy as well - formula 1 stuff apparently.....

I will be tapping every other hole to take the bolt and then macheing the leading edge of each bolt to line up with the pick up.

As the hole is already drilled to 8mm the 9x1 thread would be my easiest option. 9 x 1.25 would reduce the amount of threads per hole as the ring is only 6mm thick.

Looks like i will be buying the die from Tracy tools........

I appreciate that and do realise that the fine 9mm thread is very odd, but a quick internet search did find them, but not in the UK.

the actual application size is M9x1 x 7mm long so even a 30mm bolt would do so easily cut down.

For those interested im making a traction control sensor for a friends National Hill Climb car - on the front hubs there are retaining rings which hold the front wheel bearings in place - the rings have equally space 8mm holes around the outer edge - the bolts are needed for the Hall effect pick up - as the hole is already at 8mm next best approiach is to tap them 9mm and as the ring is only 7mm thick a nice fine 1mm pitch thread seems the best way.

They will be fitted and then the head machined down so it forms a square rather than hex as the pick up is much happier with the flat edge of the square than the potentially sharp edge of a hex.... a lot of work and the added work of having to make 30 bolts and thread each one is adding more work......

Thanks - Im in need of 30 for a special project - ive already seen the tap and die set at Tracy tools and have the tap on order I just didn't want to make the bolts -

There available through a chinese ebay account but as mentioned not paying those prices -

there must be a UK supplier of odd size pitches -

Im after a supplier of M9x1mm threaded bolts - I can't seem to find a supplier in the UK.

Plenty on ebay but all come from China and want silly money for postage. There must be a decent nut and bolt supplier out there.

All advice noted - thanks.

I'm using a gas burner - but as yet no way to tell the correct temp - i'm just going till it melts and then pour.

The sodium carbonate seems logical but no indication as to volume needed.

Scrap is good quality old engine parts and wheels so I don't think that would be the problem. I erring towards the overheating.

Ive started to melt things..... built myself a furnace and crucible and things are going well. Mainly melting Ally at the moment to repurpose for other projects.

Some of the billets have been machined and I noticed lots of small air bubbles in the casting.

Ive heard of de-gassing which I assume will help this problem but not sure what this entails.

Advice greatly accepted.

I'd like to cast some ally parts but want to re-use the mould. What would be the best way to do this. What material would be most suitable to make it from.

I'd like to make 10 items the same.

My thoughts would be to 3D print the part and then make the mould from that.

As always an instant reply with exactly the information needed. Many thanks.

As the level is pretty old I would assume it is held together with plaster as Clive suggested - I'll give that a go first, shame to ruin the original vial for the sake of a dirty piece of paper.

I would like to replace the vial in my precision machinist level - or to put it another way - I would like to replace the paper backer behind the vial on my precision machinist level, it has become mottled and reading the graduations on the vial is hard.

Ive seen how they come apart on Youtube videos and don't belive I could take mine apart without breaking the vial.

Can someone suggest a supplier of the vials in the UK - i did a quick search but it comes up with US or China.

Thanks for the replies. I should have said I do have plenty of motors I can use, even the correct 2 speed motor for the Harrison 140 - I was only after the inverter.

I will have a look at the Inverter drive supermarket and the Transwave site.

Hi All

I can only apologies for this thread as I am assuming that this topic has been covered before - but my ability to do a search on this forum never works out for me.

I have a Harrison 140 with a 3 motor and a proper 3 phase supply. I thinking of changing the original motor to a 2 speed type for the advantage of the higher turning speeds.

I want to then control the motor with a Inverter (VFD) what should I be looking for ?

Anyone recommend a supplier or a type/make to look out for.

Thanks Brian - very useful information there - I will count the teeth and post the results on here. I think I have a full set of gears about 10 in total.

So put it simply - the gears used in between the spindle gear and the lead screw gear have no influence of the pitch of the thread, there only influence will be the speed in which they turn the lead screw

All I need to know is the spindle gear and the lead screw gear ?

The other lathe in the background is my Harrison 140, I also have an Alfred Herbert vertical mill.

For those that asked - here are some pictures of what I assume to be the reverse gear for the leadscrew.

After a week of stripping, degreasing, adjustment, a little bit of scrapping and painting i'm almost there.

I need to adjust the tailstock and secure the motor, just waiting on new vee belts -

There is some wear on the bed, it drops by 0.1mm right in front of the spindle, but further back it is still very true.

I'm working on a surface grinder at the moment so I think the future project once thats working will be to re-grind the bedways.

The first picture contains what I assume to be the tumbler reverse gear - it has a strange brass cog on it with only 5 teeth - I assume this was a past project for the previous owner.

Is there a gear chart for thread cutting and carriage speeds available ? I also liked to know what the spindle speeds would be - the motor is 1/4HP 1420rpm.

Edited By Me. on 14/12/2021 13:50:31

Thanks for the info - luckily the lathe came with 1 3 jaw and 4 jaw chuck a small face plate and a catch plate - I can count at least 10 change wheels altogether of various teeth.

Thanks for the advice in regard to the reverse gears - If i ever want to cut a left hand thread i'll use my Harrison...

I will post some more pictures of the half way restoration - so far all paint is stripped off and degreased and almost ready for painting - the slide ways on the cross slide and compound are showing some wear but not much.

Thanks

Some of the lathe before I totally stripped it down.

Found some very interesting bits - the chuck that is fitted in the pictures is very unusual as it has a large ring that moves the jaws - it with 3 other chucks that came with the lathe are all American made.

I'm not too sure what the two gears do which are fitted to the rear of the chuck - 9 oclock in the 3rd picture - other ML1's Ive seen don't have those - is it a reverse.

After these pictures were taken I finished strippijg it down for cleaning and repainting - I have decided I am going to paint it to match my Harrison 140 and my Alfred Herbert Mill.

Edited By Me. on 07/12/2021 15:50:50

As always the answers are very informative and useful - I spent most of today stripping it down to clean it and inspect most parts.

It has the one piece headstock/body so that I assume makes it the ML 1.

Th original colour can be seen in areas that have never been seen since it was put together it is a very dark greeny grey. the gap between the bedways is painted a very bright red.

The cast in serial number plate just below the spindle is defiantly 352.

The change wheels are held together with the small pins. (on this is there a gear chart to aid screw cutting)

There doesn't appear to be a thread dial indicator, was there one for this model or if not can someone point me in the direction on how to make one.

The small dial indicator on the cross slide is worn - the dial locks into the nut by way of two punched slots, with time the slots in the brass dial have worn and no longer lock into the nut, any suggestions for a repair or is this part still available.

The slop in the drive train gears is going to get on my nerves and I think I will want to make them "less sloppy", any suggestions greatfully accepted.

Pictures taken and posted up soon.

Hi All

A little bit of history... I live on an Island in the English Channel and I purchased a Myford lathe almost 2 years ago from an adjacent Island just before the 1st lock down. This was to be my first lathe and was looking forward to it arrival. Unfortunatly as things progressed through Covid times the stretch of water between the two islands proved a issue and the lathe was stuck.

Along came the opportunity to purchase a Harrison 140 from the UK - the deal was done and the lathe arrived - across the same stretch of water but bypassing the smaller island.... anyway i'm getting to the point.

A good friend of mine was visiting the smaller island last week and he managed to pick up the Myford and bring it back to me.

I must say it is a beauty - hardly any wear apart from a few of the gears seem a little loose, the bed looks great. A good strip clean adjust and rebuild is the order of the day.

Ive done lots of research on the ML1 but this seems different - all the pictures ive seen have flat drum drive pulley this one has V pulleys.

The serial number is either *35* or *352* can't quite work it out as there is a little bit of denting on the plate.

Are there any users of the ML1 out there that can help with directions and tips as to the overhaul - one thing i'd like to do is take out the slop in the gear train. Is it best to remake the shafts or bush the gears ??

Finally (for now) what colour would the original ML1's have been. This one is black.

I will post some pictures as soon as I make a start on the overhaul.

Thanks