Member postings for Bo'sun

I can understand why chainsaw bar oil might be considered, as it contains "anti-fling" additives, presumably similar to the "tackifier" additives in way oil. Without making a direct viscosity comparison, I'm guessing, that chainsaw bar oil is more viscous, because it needs some of it to cling to a chain travelling up to 30m/s. It also needs to be able to operate at high temperature. Anyone tried mixing bar oil and a straight low viscosity mineral oil?

The Alum treatment sounds like a useful technique. However, I'm not familiar with it. Can somebody explain the technique, or point me towards a good source of reference.

Thank you.

Thank you Mick,

The WM240 & WM250V use the same base plate. Just got to source the slide now. I was hoping to get it along with the lathe, but Warco are out of stock.

Good afternoon,

Has anyone fitted a Myford type tilt & swivel milling slide to a Warco WM240 lathe? It looks do-able, by modifying Warco's cross slide base plate.

As others have said, practice grinding by hand on some old bits. It can be quite satisfying. Get familiar with the tip geometry and you never know. Equal cutting lip lengths are important, otherwise you can drill oversized holes. A useful tip however, if you want a slightly larger hole than you have a bit for. It needs some experimentation though.

I'm not a big fan of cheap drill bit sharpeners, they rarely produce a good profile, and I really don't like those that use the side of the wheel.

Less than perfect eyesight does make the sharpening of small bits difficult, if not impossible, so with the smaller sizes, I just buy new ones a few at a time.

Hello All,

I'm not clear quite how you define a "mini lathe", but next week I shall be visiting the Warco showroom in Chiddingfold, with the intention of buying a WM240 lathe (nothing like inspecting the hardware before you buy).

I have a list of questions to ask, but Is there anything I should pay particular attention to?

Thank you

Thank you Rod,

I've just measured the taper in the chuck (as best I could) and it pretty much measures up to the JT0 specification.

Can I assume then, that the JT taper number is the same number as the chuck size?

Good afternoon All,

I have a No.0 Jacobs Chuck, which I want to put on a 2MT arbor. The designation on the Chuck reads "No.0 0-5/32 H78". I assumed that H78 was the mounting interface, but can't find any reference to a suitable arbor.

Any ideas you clever lot?

I keep getting an ad via You Tube for a product called "Bondic". Developed by a UK dentist apparently. Sounds like the same sort of stuff. As always, the claims for these things are very impressive, but it could be worth a punt in lieu of anything else.

The closest thing to it that I've seen, is a hinge from an oven door.

Please see reply from Toolco. Mind you, it's taken over 2 months to get this out of them.

"Thank you for your 2 messages

We are currently taking a break from the business for a couple of months

Sarah"

Yes, that's what I thought.

Bo'sun

Good afternoon,

Does anyone know if "Toolco" are still trading?

Thanks

Hello All,

Just a few words about me. I've been engineering since I left school, but never considered, or had sufficient time, to do it as a hobby. Now retired, I've decided to do some model engineering alongside woodwork.

When I was at school, I got the opportunity to build a T.E.Haynes "Hot Air Engine" (halcyon days back then). However, over the years the model has been lost. That's going to be my first project. I'm sure there are better first projects, but it's the nostalgia, and the fact that my Dad was so proud when his 16 year old son walked through the door with it.

Only one concession. The base will be fabricated from aluminium blocks rather than a casting. Yes, we had a mould making facility and an aluminium smelter at school.