Member postings for Steviegtr

The problem is the motor shafts get an oxide on them from the bushes. The only way to rectify is by taking the caps off the motor ends.

Clean the internal faces of the bushes, Clean the shafts which will be a blackish colour.

Re-oil the bushes & refit end caps. Some motors are rivetted together & some have screws & nuts . If rivet type then shear them off to gain access. The motor windings rarely fail on this type of motor & will happily buzz away if the shaft is seized. It is a very common fault with fan heaters.

Steve.

Hi Nick. That is not the experience I have had with the little Fiesta ST line 125 ps. It actually goes like stink & very smooth too. Fuel economy is as you say around the 40. What other petrol car is better than that. It is just a shame about the failure otherwise I cannot knock the car itself.

Steve.

A bit of a discalaimer here. I was not in the car when this happened & rarely drive the car. It is Bevs not mine.

So she said I heard a rattling noise & looked down at the dash. There was a red light, which was a I guess stop now job. This was a very short distance from the roundabout. As she got to the roundabout , she dipped the clutch. When she came to set off again the car did not move. She said it did stop abruptly. Now she is a lovely lady but does like her music loud when driving.

The car may have been making a noise prior to this , which I suspect it was. The engine I have purchased is from Syntiq, which used to be Motorhog. They give 30 day warantee with the engine or 3 months if you give them the old engine back.

The engine comes bare & needs all the ancillaries from our engine. Once all done & happy it is running ok, we put the old engine back on the pallet received & they come & take it away. I did try Trent salvage, another huge recycle centre that you may have heard of. But they wanted £2200 delivered.

I remember when Ford introduced this engine to there range & the boast was the block was a A4 footprint size. They said the engine internal cambelt was good for 400,000 Km. No mention of a timeframe.

The early ones used to crack the cylinder heads due to the fact , to save money they did away with an exhaust manifold & bolted the turbo straight to the head. They started to crack internaly. Bevs is the later engine. There are plenty of other issues as there are with most cars. Google any p[articular car & up pops all the problems.

The cambelt issue is not that they break, but small fibres which come off the edge of the belt causing the clogging to the oil way.

Had I not been in my 70's the engine would have come out at home & I would have repaired it. Spent most of my adult life building & rebuilding engines from mini to big block Chevrolet's. But it's not really an old codgers thing any more, hence the Son in Law's garage doing the work.

The other thing is that if you changed the oil every month there is still achance of this happening due to the gauze getting blocked. This would still be blocked with fresh oil.

If any of you guys have one of these you will know they are a delight to drive. 3 Cylinders which sounds like a V8. Not a bit like the old 3 pot Corsa that used to tickover like a cement mixer. As some of you have said . What a shame Ford did not just go the extra mile & make it more reliable. For anyone interested here is a someone doing the belt change & showing the blockage.

Edited By Steviegtr on 10/06/2023 23:03:56

Not sure you read my post but no oil loss or water. Seems a common problem with the ecoboost 3 pot engine. Spoke with a company that does these engines all the time. They are Whitkirk motors..what happens on some is fibres come off the belt & just above crank is a oil port to the pump. With a fine strainer in it. They get clogged with the fibres & restrict oil flow. Onthis ocation it seems like it has destroyed a big end shell. Cannot verify as the engine is waiting the replacement ordered yesterday. There is a guy on YouTube doing one of these & clearly shows the fibres being pulled out of the strainer while they fit a new belt.

The car has 45.000 miles. Since we bought with 8.000 miles & just main dealer serviced. I have changed oil & filter twice. No additives just the correct oil .

Bev drives pretty steady & never screams it. The Internet is full of similar low mileage stories. Ford recommend 10 years or 150.000 miles to change.

Steve.

Yes the oil light came on & then a couple of secs later the car stopped on the spot.

Steve

Sorry not sure what you mean. ???.

Steve.

Well Bev went out in her 2016 Fiesta 1.0 ecoboost today. Got a few miles & the dreaded rattle & oil light followed by total seizure of the engine. This was aproaching a roundabout. All within around 100 feet in distance. The car has done 45,000 & i regularly service inc oil & filter. the oil level was correct as was the water.

Having looked around online it is stated by Ford 10 years or 150,000 miles for the internal wet belt to be changed. The car is neither of these. What it seems happens on some of these is the fine fibres that the belt is made from come off. These get sucked into a fine gauze which leeds to the oil pump. The pump gets starved of oil & the rest is history. Aparently no come back at Ford.

So a low mileage 39,000 unwaranted used engine from Synteq was £1600 delivered. Plus whatever my Son in laws garage charges for fitting. We have owned the car since it was 11 months old & has been great until now. At my age it was out of the question for me to strip & repair the engine. So the savings got a good delving into. Hope tomorrow is better. It seems these engines suffer from a few gremlins, this being one of them.

Steve.  Sorry about the title mis spell.

Edited By Steviegtr on 09/06/2023 18:50:31

Edited By Steviegtr on 09/06/2023 18:51:16

I had a few problems in the past with these recorders. I kept thinking the hard drive had failed. But it was usualy because the drive was nearing its full capacity & would simply fail. I used to remove the drive & fit to a P.C. Then delete the recordings & then refit to the recorder. They would then run fine. I soon came to the conclusion that they regularly needed the watched content deleting. Even now with our SKY Q box I delete regularly or they start to play up.

Steve.

On the bucket list.

Steve.

I would not know the answer to that. The thing just amazed me at all the work that had gone into making it.

Steve.

I think he mentioned it was a small version Bridgeport

Steve.

I was just watching Jason B showing a engine on youtube. When it had finished a guy who built a corliss engine popped up. It is from 7 years ago. So maybe some of you may have seen it. I am putting a link to the video. It is absolutely stunning, just to see it running is a work of art.

Steve.

So to clear a few things up. My Ducati motorcycle is keyless as such As long as I have the key close to the bike I can activate the handlebar ignition to turn on. It will then start at the touch of the starter button. If My key is on the shelf in the garage, around 6 feet away it does not work. The car works completely different & I assume all modern Jaguar Landrover vehicles work the same. I have to press unlock on the remote, I guess this is only active with the press of the said button. Although If i approach my car & touch the door handle the car unlocks. You then of course have the imobiliser within the key which has been law for many years on all vehicles, which stopped most joyriders from knicking your prized posession. Again for this to work I need to be near the car. If more than say 3 feet away it will not work. Also if I unlock my car & leave the key outside the car. It will not start & says key not found

The van has a remote unlock on the key & only works at a press of the unlock button. Then the standard imobiliser, as in the key has to be within a few inches of the ignition barrel for it to work. Which the car & bike do not. Just in the vicinity.

Might I add the few stolen vehicles that this thread mentions are from people who leave their keys in a coat pocket or near the door. Which is asking for trouble.

Using your phone for banking etc. This is my go to. Pretty much no other option with most Banks closed etc. After my bad experience some years ago with paypal I now have double activation. If on the pc I have to put a code in which is sent to my phone to prove it is me. All my important apps on the phone, banking etc are protected with fingerprint activation. Plus Bitdefender is always active & scanning for scams etc.

If you do not have a modern phone with the latest updates then i'm not sure of the protection. I have seen some folk post threads on using windows 7 etc. Again probably not a wise choice if you want the best in security. I am running Window 11 with full complete security software , which does regular updates. Believe me guys it is not that expensive to use the latest software.

Stay safe guys. Just on a note. Due to this thread. Me & my ex, now landlady Bev taking me for a delicious KFC tonight. When she held her credit card to the machine i looked behind me just to make sure there was noone with a wire coathanger or magic box scanning her card.

Steve.

Edited By Steviegtr on 04/06/2023 01:08:16

I have scanned & sent a few documents like my Passport & driving licence. The people who required them do not use any sort of encription.

As said I use Bitdefender total security & it looks after the P.C. Plus i have it on my Phone too. Before that I had a large amount of money paid out of my Paypal account. Luckily I did not loose any money & Paypal stopped the payments going out. So that is when I decided to get better security.

All my e-mails are scanned when received etc. I know it is a nasty place to be in but life must go on. It is more difficult too now because all the Banks have closed down. The nearest one to me now is nearly 20 miles away & impossible to park due to location.

I own a Ducati Multistrada 1200 S touring. 2017. I also own a 2016 Vauxhall Vivaro Bi turbo 170 bhp. I also own a 2017 Jaguar 5.0 AWD F-type Jaguar.|Plus I do all my banking on my Phone. I have never had any problems with someone trying to steal my identity or anything else. Old farts society is unfortunately a falicy. Have an old computer & a duff old phone if you will. But In this modern world you need to get real. I also have the latest software to keep me safe . I use Bitdefender. Stay safe guys & sorry if you think the world is after you, but matbe there not.

Regards from Steviegtr.

Thanks Jason. I did consider extending the right shaft. The one with the taper. But I think I can get the flywheel on if I create a step in the bosses I have to make in the flywheel centres. That side is left hand thread. Also the crank is rock hard. The left cam side I am still pondering on making a spinning ball governor. Anyway as always ,thanks for the help.

Steve.

Well i have made some headway with finishing the piston & cast iron rings. Not sure whether to make a start on the crankshaft rebuild so I can decide on the lenghth of the framework next.

Thoughouly enjoying the thinking to make it to my own design. Plus a few idea's from forum members & my subscribers. I am sure at some point I will finish the build.

If not into the scrap bin it goes.

Steve.

Many thanks Jason for taking the time to do this for me. On later video's i have discussed the cam idea & the arc slot for adjustment.Your idea is a slight variation to what I was going to do. Which was to narrow the gear boss down & sit the cam over it. I guess either way works out the same. I have already turned the 2 gears down in width.

The Cad drawings certainly look better than my dirty paper drawings.

The stupid thing is i spent years with Autocad for both electrical & mechanical drawing. I had a few clients who comissioned me to do there factory drawings.

That was way back then. Now I have Freecad on the P.C & just cannot get my head around it. Funny what a few years being idle does to the gray matter.

Again many thanks.

Steve.

Thanks for that Jason. I never thought to mention before starting the build. Never mind, it is certainly giving me things to think about. But thoroughly enjoying it too.

Steve.

I decided to have a go at making a Hit & Miss engine from the spare parts bin as such. I soon discovered there is no such thing & you will always need to buy something. The nearest engine I could find was from the USA & was over $650 to buy in kit form & $3500 finished. So far I have spent around £125 in stock needed. Not sure if anyone is interested in the build but it involves making everything from my thoughts & mostly my own design of how i reckon it would work out. This engine will be around twice the size of the kits available here in the Uk at £250 from kit specialists like Hemingways. It is going well & as usual for me it is many episodes on my YouTube video's. So far it is up to Episode 7. 7B coming soon of breaking the cast iron piston rings & expanding to create a good seal in the cylinder. I thank my subscribers from this forum, but anyone else who fancies making a slightly larger than miniature Hit & miss engine to have a look. The dimensions I have used are all shown within the video's, so feel free to copy them at your leisure.

I do not want to share this with comments from some members that are trolls. This is a genuine series with model engineers in mind. Thank you for reading.

Kind regards to all forum members

Steve.