Member postings for Richard Kirkman 1

It's just 'Phillips Professional Cold Blue' but it's quite expensive, I'd like to be able to make my own. The web says its made from some sort of selenium dioxide

Phil, I had to look up what cheese head bolts were. But now I know what to search when I need bolts like that. Does your lathe have hex bolts in it? Because that really doesn't sound right?

I'll have a look at playing with the alignment then, we'll see what happens

Phil, I don't know if they used hex bolts or not originally. I just wanted slot head screws since I could make the head whatever size I wanted. If I had a rotary broach, I would have made hex bolts

Two blades at once sounds like a good idea, although it wouldn't work for a junior hacksaw like I used. I'll definitely try that in the future!

Definitely a toggle switch originally.Can't see if they're hex or slotted

Now you've said it, looks like there are plenty of compartments for various instruments!

I'm sure my background of a nice brick wall works perfectly too

I've had a very productive day. I finished some jewelry boxes, similar to the one I made for Phil, but with trays and sections. Then some castors arrived in the post so my bandsaw is now free to glide around the garage. Then onto lathe work...

I picked up some m8 bolts from Toolstation so I could work on getting the panel fixed in place properly

Before I could turn the bolts down I had to put the starting lever back onto the lathe, so I took a picture of the back. Tracy finally got back to me today, so I will try to see if she can send me the starting level of her lathe so I have a spare if I mess this one up!

Chalk test, with a gold highlighter as I didn't have any chalk. The belts are not even. Can this be caused by a misaligned motor too?

Anyway, I'm running on 1 belt now and the lathe is much more peaceful. The link belts seemed a bit expensive when I can just use one belt, especially since I just bought these belts, although I do see the attraction.

The bolts were screwed into a piece of aluminium I tapped, then faced, and turned to the dimensions I wanted.

Then I cut the slots just with a hacksaw

Then I prepared to drill and tap the lathe body.

This went surprisingly well

Then I polished the bolts, gave them a brushed finish, then cold blued and oiled them.

Fully installed, I'd say they look rather fitting.

They pull the panel in tight

Then I tried the light and gave the panel a bit of a bang around to see if the light went off.

The light went off again

I've still fixed the stripped threads and improved the panel's fit, which I'd say is productive enough, but It annoyed me that it didn't fix it, so I started testing things

I cleaned the contacts of where the 2 legs for the lighting power leave the brass plug bit, that didn't help

I cleaned the surface of the slide lock fuses, that didn't help

Then I bypassed the switch to see if that made a difference, low and behold it stopped flickering when I banged it, I think. I could be completely wrong once again, I'll replace the switch and see.

I've ordered a toggle switch to replace it with since I found a picture and there should have been a toggle switch there anyway. I ordered it a couple of days ago actually, so this is currently working in my favour until it turns out to not be the issue.

Thank you, I have read that page before but I don't remember reading that. The belts were supposedly matched but I'll do the chalk test tomorrow. Link belts are a possibility depending on the cost.

Yes, I checked the other side thoroughly, but I did not take a picture. There's definitely not a through-hole for the pin to be knocked out.

I cleaned up the face of the switch box too. There must be a more elegant way to write reverse and forward onto it

Interestingly, there is the original lathe colour paint underneath the grey. This means that the switch is original, or at least was put on when the lathe was painted before.

This is the handle, it will be brightened up. The rod is held in by a blind pin. Any suggestions as to how I can get it out without drilling out the pin? Drilling is last resort, but I think it might be inevitable.

I'll get the bolts tomorrow for the cabinet things

I meant what is the electrical issue caused by, but I've figured that out now.

The belts are almost definitely different lengths or not running right as they make a lot of noise and sound like they're hitting off each other. What is this chalk test?

I managed to sort out the excessive wobbling by using a much longer bolt, it works much better now

Wobble before

Wobble after

So it's now much more satisfying to turn, and doesn't feel like I'm about to break something.

These are only finishing touches but they're the feel of the machine, everything I touch when I use it. So I think it's important for it to feel nice so I enjoy using it more.

I also did the same for the reverse forward switch

direction switch before

And then it had no movement after. all the play was from the actual knob spinning, not the shaft spinning.

The last handle that Is loose is the main on/off lever. There is a lot of slop in this and it makes it feel loose and less tactile to use. The only trouble is, it's actually worn.

Herman, after seeing your future shiny handle I think I need to polish a few of mine. Perhaps just a brushed finish

Back to some actual fixing

I think it was just caused by the entire box not being secured properly. A few of the threads are stripped so it's hard for me to get the box all the way in, however when I managed it worked nicely. I also cleaned the 3 prongs that the power goes through, and the holes they go in. The box bit was bent out of shape too, so I have beaten it back into shape so it now fits nicely.

I managed to get two of the screws in and they held well enough to make it work nicely!

VIDEO

I'll drill and tap them M8 and buy some bolts, which I will turn down to the correct dimensions and put a slot-head on. This way I can get the exact fixings I want. I believe they're currently quarter inch, but I dont have any imperial taps, so m8 will do.

Also, while I'm working on the box area, I'll give everything a good clean and take a look at the starter switch. It's always had quite a bit of slop to it, so I'm going to sort that out by making a sleeve to go inside it. If I leave it wobbly then It's only going to keep wearing until it breaks fully. The only issue is, I'll need a longer bolt to fit inside for the way I want to do it, so I need to figure out what thread it is.

I'll also have a look at the forward and reverse switch as this seems to be loose too.

No apology needed Herman, It's all interesting to hear. Although no talk of Guinness please, you're making me thirsty and the pubs are still closed!

I've just had a little play. I think the capacitors aren't causing the lighting issue, I think its the vibration of the lathe shaking a connection loose. Have a look

VIDEO.

Yes, The lathe doesn't quite knock itself that hard. But it does vibrate. What is this caused by?

A bad connection perhaps? Contacts in need of cleaning somewhere?

I'll still be replacing the caps when the new ones arrive and the spade connector

Well, that is interesting.

I found the picture that I took of my apron in the manual, might help a little if you haven't looked it up

Also, I have been speaking to the man who I bought the converter from. He seems very knowledgeable about these converters and what he's saying is very interesting. I'll let you know if anything comes of it

I have just ordered some caps and female spade connectors, they should be here in the next fortnight or so.

But I still don't see why the motor age makes a difference. What is the difference between 2 three phase motors? Surely they would just work the same? Or do they make motors differently now?

I have changed the motor. I am now using a TECO 2003 3hp three phase motor. So much more modern.

I understand and appreciate your concerns. However i don't see the issue, the literature shows that the converter can run any single motor 5hp or less due to the power compensation circuit which eliminates the need for selecting and deselecting different amounts of capacitors for different motors. So my understanding is that it doesn't need to be suited to the motor, since it adjusts itself and works for a range.

The rotary converter is fine for what I'm doing. I do not need to change anything. I just need to replace the capacitors at the same value as was already in there.

I was simply inquiring if there was a difference in buying unbranded capacitors to buying the named and branded ones.

There are no issues with the converter. If you read the manual I put in the thread, which I have reattached, the literature explains it clearly.

Thank you for going into such detail, but I don't think it is necessary as there isn't really a problem that needs solving to that extent.

However I would like to understand what this converter does since I have watched numerous videos on making your own converters, but this seems simpler than those.

More pics here. I don't think the thickness of it matters too much as long as it fits in the slots that are on the lead screw bit. As yours is in pieces i'm sure you can measure the slot and other parts. I can get even more pictures, but I think I've covered most angles that I can get to it

Just to be clear, my apron is shown in the manual that I sent in somewhere. So that's the place to look

i can't get a full measurement but the measurements from the picture seem right to me.

Look carefully at the shaft it's resting on, there's a flat.

I've emailed the company I bought the converter from to ask if they'll pay for the capacitors, but their website is no longer available and their Facebook has shut down. Perhaps they have closed down. Either way I'll get new capacitors.

Herman, is there any requirement to use the same brand, or am I okay to buy these cheaper ones that are unbranded. Surely they're the same? They have all the same codes on, yet they're much cheaper

Cheaper Caps

Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 01/06/2020 13:07:43

I've made a little bit of progress with the traveling steady. Still getting better at painting, but I'm getting there. Sprayed it for the first time today, it gives a much better finish, I'm amazed, even with a wagner fence and decking sprayer. I just wish I had sprayed the primer on with it too! The finish could still do with improvement, but I'll sort it somehow.

I think painting more things at once would be much better, so I might move onto doing a few lathe parts soon. I can feel the tailstock calling to me

Pictures and video of apron

Video Link

Big compressor it is then! (one day)

My belt grinder has a 2hp motor with vfd so I don't think it needs changing to run off air

I'm not too sure what you mean by backsplash plate. My lathe doesn't have one like Phils does.

I received an email back from the man at Danebury electronics.

He said

"Unfortunately we don't keep records dating back that far.

I would replace capacitor values like for like.

My best guess for capacitors if they are unidentifiable are

Run capacitor 60uf 450V

2X start capacitors 80uf 450V.

Broyce relay set to around 275V"

So it looks like the capacitors in there are correct, but they still all need replacing.

But, from what I found on the 80uf capacitors on eBay, they were motor running caps not start ones. So I'm a little confused once again.

My pleasure Phil. It's nice to give back for once, just to show my appreciation. I wouldn't have got to where I am without you. I figured you'd probably be more likely to use the contactors than me. The sides of the box are some form of mahogany and the top and bottom panel are some really hard stuff that seems like Bubinga, not too sure, but it polishes up nicely. There should be plenty of gasket material there to redo all the gaskets in the lathe or whatever you want to use it for.. I didn't know what drill sizes you had already, but I'm sure they can be used for something. I had some duplicates after buying 2 job lots. I have any size I could possibly need up to 7/8ths pretty much. And still, the mt4 drill that I need to turn the taper down on. I still aspire to make better quality boxes, but that box was a good step in the right direction. I'm sure you'll put everything to good use!

Herman, so are power correcting caps the same as running caps, and how are starting caps different from running caps.

I think I'd have to start off with a small compressor and see how that went. Meanwhile, I think its time to design and make a new and improved 50x1500mm belt grinder. The first iteration just isn't as good as I would have liked it to be.

I'm not going to order them just yet or message.

I will wait till I have the wiring diagram or some more contact from the producer of the converter. Because they all might be wrong, it could have had anything done to it.

Those capacitors are just normal motor start capacitors, what were you on about power factor corrector capacitors for?

Honestly Herman, now I'm thinking about looking for an air compressor. Don't put any more tool ideas in my head!

Okay single phase caps then.

This appears to be the identical model that is in my cabinet.

LINK

I do not want to return it because it was a good deal, and I still need one. I would not find one like this again. If I can get the replacement parts and have them pay for it, that would be preferable. Since if they take it back they'll have to fix it anyway and resell it. Also, it weighs a lot and I don't want to post it back to them, especially since I just broke up the pallet they sent it on.

I have used a VFD in the past for my belt grinder. I want to keep all the wiring inside the lathe and keep it original. A VFD needs to be connected directly to the motor and would bypass all the work that I've put in wiring the lathe back to original (ish) workings. I don't want to use a VFD, it's not for me.

There might actually be one place I could possibly store a compressor. Maybe one day...

Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 28/05/2020 18:54:21

I received an email back from the converter company! He wanted the serial number, so I have given it to him. It's looking like I might get a circuit diagram.

Another update, I went to smith and Allen in Darlington and I picked up a litre of their dove grey b694 tractol paint. I also got some Ransomes green for the mower. So I will finally be able to paint the traveling steady the correct colour.