Here is a list of all the postings Richard Kirkman 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start |
13/07/2020 10:44:57 |
Interesting video Herman. The chuck I'm taking to pieces has a different mechanism since it has 2 magnets in. So I meant that I couldn't find any videos specifically on that model. They're all very similar anyway Yeah, the lines do go up in 5s from 0-60 minutes. Giving every 5 being one 12th. I haven't particularly heard of arcseconds and minutes before, but I'm sure I've skimmed past it a couple of times. I thought there was just degrees and radians. Thanks guys |
12/07/2020 23:51:11 |
I managed to have a play with the Mag Chuck. Pictures below through the link. It's not worth putting a full rebuild up in this thread. It's sitting in rust remover overnight, then I'll give it an oil and put it back together tomorrow. It wasn't working before, the knob at the front wouldn't turn as far as it should, so it needed disassembling. It may be worth doing a write up of the actual disassembly since I couldn't find anything about these chucks online. (excessively photographed so I can figure out how to put it back together exactly as it came apart) I also had a look through some books that Brian gave me and I found how to read a protractor vernier. Very handy, I had been wondering since I got my protractor how the vernier scale worked. It's just a normal scale, but instead of it being 0.1mm or 0.1 of a degree it's 1/12th of a degree. Handy? Or even more confusing! Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 12/07/2020 23:53:15 |
12/07/2020 11:08:59 |
It would be good to see inside the control panel of the lathe Donovan. Interesting to see and would possibly help. if your pump is only making a very small amount of noise, are you sure it's definitely spinning? I managed to do some research and find that the micrometers are pipe/tube micrometers for measuring wall thickness. From what I've seen on eBay sold listings, they seem to be pretty rare, so I've been very very lucky I've got to spend the day gardening, but I'm dying to take the mag chuck to pieces |
11/07/2020 16:47:16 |
Posted by Donovan Kaardal on 11/07/2020 16:30:53:
Thanks Richard. The key switch I've got a handle on - the drawers open easily, so I'm assuming that it's unlocked. Just to be sure I pulled the key mechanism apart and checked it over. Open or closed, the motor won't start. I will say my pump motor sounds a lot quieter then the one you had in your video though! Not sure about the cover switch though. I can't seem to see anything that looks like a switch/button/contact anywhere on the lathe other then the obvious main power on the side and the off/on/on+pump dial on the front. I'll have to take some pictures of my lathe. Yes, it's a Colchester Student lathe and there are many others like it - but this one is mine. the cover switch is pretty well hidden, but once you've found it you'll never forget it. It just stops the lathe being operated while the cover is off. What are you running your lathe with? Like the source of the electricity I've always found that pictures explain the technical things I don't understand better than my words. This is the cover, there is a switch in the lathe body that gets pushed in by the bolt that pokes out of the cover at the bottom middle part at that lump |
11/07/2020 16:32:36 |
Just back from a nice trip to Scarborough to meet John/Ted and Brian, and to have a look through the tools available. It was like Christmas, but much much better! Tools I hadn't even thought of, and tools that the previous owner had made himself, like centre drills on their own taper so you don't have to fiddle around with chucks. Simple idea, but will save time. Ted and Brian were both very friendly and we chatted a while. I've come away with quite a few goodies. A few things that I was looking out for anyway, so well worth the trip. Popped in to see a friend in Pickering on the way back too. Brian gave me a tour of his workshop and it was fantastic. He has a nice smart and brown lathe and plenty of stories to go with it. He also showed me what he's been making over the past couple decades. Incredible stuff. I haven't particularly looked into the model engineering side of having a lathe yet, but now I may be interested. Brian was even kind enough to supply me with various bits of steel and aluminium for me to play with. Back home now and tools all laid out, some fantastic bits of kit So, a few questions from all these tools. The micrometers have one pin that's round. What are these used for? They looked too good for me to pass up. Are they for wall thickness measuring or something? The mag chuck doesn't work properly, are they tricky to fix or would it be a waste of my time? Does anyone know if there are any companies that make cards similar to that starret tap/drill chart but in a full-blown poster form? That's all for now. A bit off-topic so I apologize. Hijacking my own thread more than Herman at this point! Meanwhile, I have a lot of tidying and moving around to do in the garage. New homes for tools are required... |
10/07/2020 22:30:03 |
Fantastic to hear you've found it of use Donovan. Happy to help with anything. Phils diagram is very straight forward, possibly look at the key switch at the end of the lathe and the cover switch first. It could be simple. It's always nice to see some pictures of other peoples lathes! |
06/07/2020 20:04:52 |
Posted by john fletcher 1 on 06/07/2020 16:22:21:
Hello Richard, a friend of mine died recently and another friend and me have been clearing his workshop. There is a LOT of measuring equipment and other materials / tooling available in Scarborough. If interested at all, send me a PM with a phone number or email address. John I've sent you a PM Thanks |
06/07/2020 13:49:15 |
I don't have a spindle bush like yours Phil, are they hard to get/find? You don't need to worry about finesse till you have thousands of subscribers, but that won't be long if you keep the content as good as it is! New toy arrived this morning, only 4 days late thanks to my favorite royal mail. It's had a hard life. The listing said it was from the 1950s. It's been snapped in half(or cracked) then welded back together. So I thought I would blend the welds with a bit of filling so it feels a bit nicer to use. I'll probably polish it a bit more and cold blue it later. It hasn't come with a full set of letters, but I have probably 5 or 6 of ever number. I'll accumulate the letters I'm missing as I need them. However, after some cleaning, I found that I have enough letters to spell FORWARD, so we're halfway there. The imprint isn't currently even since there's still rust and crud on all of the letters so they're at slightly different heights. I'll sort that later too. It's going to look much better than F and R scrappily written in marker pen. Especially when on a nice brass plaque. The table is very nearly finished, so almost time for some more stripping! (Or possibly back to lawnmower |
05/07/2020 19:24:00 |
2nd thin coat today really brought the colour out! I'll probably leave it there and spray the rest. Perhaps the lathe needs some racing stripes so it'll go faster... It's looking so good it's almost a shame its going to be hidden. I'm sure some people out there will disagree, but I like it. Phil, great video this week. I'll have to test my lathe in a similar fashion once its back together. I'll be interested to see if my spindle bore has any dings like yours. How do you plan to test the tailstock? And, could you have got a mt5 reamer to clean out the spindle bore instead?(Obviously not as cheap as scraping it, very expensive actually, but would it be better?) |
04/07/2020 17:04:01 |
First coat of red/orange on the inside. Not original, but it's how I want to do it! It'll be hidden most of the time. I will be painting the lip grey so the orange should be hidden when the cover is installed Just a very thin coat, but I'll build it up I've not been very productive since I've been working on finishing the g plan table as the owners need their table back as soon as possible. |
29/06/2020 19:51:08 |
Last week's video was great Phil. Very interesting with the test bar and how the accuracies stacked with the rotation of the taper sleeve. I'm interested to see the bearings come out too! Also, the original LED turned up today, it says it was posted on the 17th of April, so it only took 2 months and 12 days to come. Pretty quick delivery from Royal Fail Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 29/06/2020 19:57:52 |
28/06/2020 19:15:09 |
Actually Howard, this time it turned out to be quite simple. I just had to take it to pieces, sharpen the mower, and adjust it to make it work better. Although I did have to make new rollers for the front as well. But, it was still more work than described as usual! I've had a fun day. I decided it was time to finish removing all of the red oxide primer from the aluminium, then I thought I'd do a test patch to see how thinly I could paint on the self-etching primer. I found the self-etching primer to be quite easy to brush on thinly. The picture makes it look thicker than it is. I was very careful. It was meant to be grey, but almost had a sort of blue tinge to it Then I let it dry for a couple of hours as instructed by the datasheet Then painted with the red oxide primer! I also gave the green wheels their final coat of paint today, so they can now be reassembled and put somewhere else. More space for lathe disassembly! The G plan table is arriving tomorrow for refinishing, so that will be a priority, It might take me a day or two, I'll have spare time while the varnish is drying. However, once the primer is dry I will sand it down and repaint. I'm still going to paint the inside of the cover red/orange, I honestly cannot wait to get it painted to see how it looks. Apart from that, other parts on the lathe are looking very tempting to take off and strip I've managed to get myself a well used interchangeable Pryor steel type, so I'll be able to fancy up the forward-reverse sign! If anyone wants to see some proper painting, Hermans thread is getting even more interesting Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 28/06/2020 19:16:10 |
25/06/2020 11:44:02 |
Good advice Phil, it blends a little better now Also, I purchased a litre of the tractol 729 etch primer, so i will be able to prime the cover. However, since I'll be spraying it, I want to get 4 parts from the lawnmower sprayed in it at the same time, so they still need stripping. One piece is a fan and is taking ages. I'll get it done eventually, but i've been tasked with refinishing a family friends G-plan table and chairs, and I agreed to look another friends lawnmower to get it working better. Who said lockdown needed to be boring... |
22/06/2020 18:03:05 |
It's just the corner has been broken off, but it doesn't bother me so i'll leave it Plus I don't have the facilities to braze. I've asked to send back all the capacitors. The old ones still work within tolerance so I think I'll just leave it, especially since I found that the light issue was the switch. (then again I still haven't tested the new switch) |
22/06/2020 15:12:38 |
Thank you Herman that does help a bit. I have a good idea of what I need to do now. I'll run it through before I start to paint properly. I stripped the threading gearbox lid today. My one is broken, but I don't plan on replacing it. Unless I find someone breaking the exact same model at some point in the future, since these lids vary in shape. Removing the oilers was quite easy. I have some that are broken, not on this part. Is there a place to buy the oilers with the red aluminium discs too? Or should I just remove all the discs, they're looking quite tatty and worn. Also, capacitors finally arrived. I had to get them to send me some more since the originals were lost! However, one is cracked. Will this be an issue? Also, the numbers are slightly, instead of the 25/85/21 on the front, it says 25/70/21. From my understanding this means they are only rated to max of 70 degrees. Will this be an issue? Or should I send them back for being mislabeled? |
22/06/2020 11:35:40 |
Herman, I know 2k might be better, but I already have tractol. I'll need to redo the brass lathe tags/plates like yours too. The work you did on the holes in yours was amazing. So where can I use the p38 body filler? Or do I need to get a different filler When you say your using primer to fill, is primer meant to fill? Or should I be trying to fill all cavities with body filler then smooth then prime? I'm beginning to wrap my head around this. Seems less daunting than it did initially The plan was to brush on a few coats of the red oxide primer to fill it a bit, then sand it down. Then I was going to spray a final coat of primer so the surface was even. Then I was going to spray the topcoats of the enamel. This would allow me to work on lots of the lawnmower parts at the same time as I've been brushing the primer onto those as I've been stripping them too. I'm not a fan of cleaning out my sprayer so i want to do lots at once. |
21/06/2020 20:43:23 |
Thanks Phil, that's very informative. I've been working on the lawnmower today. I've finally got some of the chains off, so it's coming to pieces so I can make some progress. Looking at the Tractol data sheet for their etch primer, it says I need 1 x TRACTOL 729 (Etch primer) 1 x TRACTOL 816 (Red oxide primer) 1 – 2 x TRACTOL 329(Machinery enamel) So this means the etch primer still needs coating with normal primer too? Are there any more aluminium parts on the lathe that I need to worry about? I have aluminium parts on the lawnmower too, so I'll be able to spray a few things at once. |
20/06/2020 20:29:40 |
The red oxide primer that I put on this morning came off quite easily with just white spirits and a good old rub. I hadn't thought about the bed cavities. Another excuse to buy a compressor perhaps The paint stripper I have been using has softened the paint and putty well enough so far As a hobbyist, I think tractol will be tough enough for me, especially if it hardens properly. I don't plan on getting rid of the lathe any time soon. Correct me If I'm wrong, but my takeaway is, for aluminium I need to use an etch primer then normal paint. And on all parts that I put the paint stripper on, I must remove all of the paint back to bare metal as to not leave any soft. Also, I must prime, whether etch or normal before I use the filler. |
20/06/2020 18:51:45 |
Where would I be without your help! Any idea what the easiest way to strip what I've done is? Same as normal paint even though its just primer? Or will I be able to dissolve it with some thinners or something? I'll go try putting some different things on it I'll get some tractol etch primer at some point. Maybe Monday. I won't strip the whole cabinet since most of the paint is fine on that, but it's badly damaged on the bed, headstock, and gearbox, so I may as well strip completely. Plus, my brother has just finished his degree and will be moving home this Friday with nothing to do, so I may have a personal stripper I bought a Moore and wright protractor since I've never had anything to measure angles in the garage before. Anyway, the box it's in is pretty crappy, so it looks like I'll have to put my woodworking to good use and make myself a box! |
20/06/2020 12:23:48 |
Quick update Seal arrived for the forward reverse shaft, So I've fitted that with the silicon RTV sealer too. Hopefully it won't leak
Then I finished cleaning the aluminium completely, then i finished smoothing the filler and lumps in the casting, then did a coat of primer on the inside. There are a few loose parts on the lathe that are tempting me to strip them, but i must concentrate on the lawnmower! |
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