Member postings for Richard Kirkman 1

Finally got some wiring diagrams with this contactor, 3rd time lucky. I'll go and wire it as directed in Phils messages

After a full day of oil sitting in the gearbox, we have a leak. The gasket is absolutely fine, nice and tight, but I must have not tightened the drain plug in the bottom tight enough as oil was leaking out of there.

I started to take the main spindle out again today so I can replace the gaskets.

So, first step, remove the gears from the end of the lathe. It's essential that you keep a bucket of the old headstock oil right below what you're doing, so when you drop your parts they land in there.

Then you need to remove 3 of the 6 end screws in the top plate. Only the 3 that are protruding more. As the others are through holes

Then undo the grub screw in the collar and twist it off using the two holes in the front. I just used a pinch to twist it off as I already did that last time, but the proper tool would be much better

Then once that collar is off, that's that end free. So you go to the chuck end and start to take the bolts out there

The locking ring for the L0 taper has different slots in it so you can get a hex key in there. Much easier if you have ball ended hex keys

Once they're out, the spindle can be tapped out with a block of wood. Once the head comes out of the bore, make sure to hold onto it as you tap it the last bit.

Then the gears slide off the spindle as you pull the spindle out.

Then there are some locking nuts on the front part which I presume holds the bearings in somewhere but mine are fine so I'll leave them be.

Inside is really grimy, I didn't realise how bad it was last time I took it out. I've started cleaning, but it's taking a long time.

I cut the new gaskets using the old ones as templates. I used my dividers to actually cut out the circles as they were just sharp enough to cut the rubber

Old vs new

I noticed that it was leaking from the high low speed selector at the front of the lathe, so i made a new leather gasket for it a while ago. Finally took it to pieces and the old one was pretty much gone. The new one is a very tight fit on the shaft so should hopefully seal nicely.

Still, lots of cleaning inside to do, then reassembly, and that should be all as far as oil and gaskets go.

Contactor should arrive tomorrow so I'll wire as directed

As for the tumbler arm, I had a good look at the end for the dutch key, since I remember you mentioning it when I was looking at your lathe. But the only grub screw I could find was in the middle of the shaft. I'll look again tomorrow

Thanks

Richard

Unfortunately, the drill bit is snapped so not much use!

I don't seem to have any leaks this morning, But, I'll leave it sitting for another day or two before I flush it and put the correct oil in.

The nitrile seems to be doing a good job. I think the old gasket was paper.

My cover was also quite tight, but did go back on eventually. I expected it to be a lot harder.

I contacted the ebay shop about the auxhillary connectors that should have come with the contactor and they said they must have forgotten them. I also mentioned that there was a corner snapped off it, so they've refunded the whole thing, even postage! So I now have a spare 415v contactor. Who knows when I might need one!

I still can't seem to get the gear selector off the shaft, I've undone the bolt in the handle and the one in the end of the shaft, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.

I just finished putting the gearbox back together. Cutting the gasket was very easy since the old gasket was still in decent shape.

I've filled it back up with some old oil I had from the last time I filled it up, hopefully this will stay in this time. However, I will empty it out again and put in the proper tellus 41/Iso100 oil that's needed, I'm just using this oil to check for leaks.

I've cleaned everything up and put a paper towel under it, so leaks should be very easy to spot. I'm hoping for the best, only time will tell. 1 gasket down, 3 to go.

Definitely the right contactor ordered this time (should be here 28-30th). I hope I've kept you from getting too bored by making you explain it all!

I'll follow all your instructions when the new new contactor arrives. Meanwhile, it's gasket replacement and cleaning poop out of the lathe gearbox. It's an absolute state. I wouldn't be surprised if its never been cleaned. Plus its definitely been run without the gearbox top on too, since the drill bit was in there. previous owners must have not cared one bit!

Yep, I will not have three phase for a very long time it seems. Should have stuck with the converter.

I'm sure your woodworking is fine, it's all about being creative anyway. Just hide your mistakes well and no one will look twice!

Thanks

Richard

I suspect I've just bought the wrong contactor again At least I'm learning, hopefully it doesn't frustrate you too much.

Do I need to get one with NO?

If so, I'll order this one right away and return the other

**LINK**

The 21 and 22 have continuity when the contactor is NOT pushed down. So they are normally closed? Hence the NC? Is this a problem?

The listing for the contactor stated this "Chana CC1-2501 3 Pole Contactor with 1 normally closed auxiliary contact on body of contactor, 2NO auxillary contacts supplied loose to fit on top of contactor. "

I'm not sure what it means by auxillary contacts supplied loose to fit on the top, but I didn't receive anything else in the box?

Overload pics coming right up

Contactor arrived

So, where do I need to stick the wires in?

The overloads will go into the same part as before. but will the motor wires go back into the same L1 L2 L3 as before too?

Little break from electronics, I have started on the gaskets finally. Or disassembly at least...

Definitely not the same colour as when I put it in, I kept reusing the oil to try to flush the headstock a bit, but i still need to get in properly and give it a good scrub

The gearbox was absolutely full of crap, I even found a drill bit in there. There was so much gunk that it was probably reducing the actual amount of oil I could put in significantly.

Not perfect, still needs a good scrub, I've left it covered in degreaser

This was after I'd cleaned it a little, the bottom was full with nutella sludge up to about the top of the black bit with lots of holes in it. So progress has been made. The gasket didn't seem to be in too bad shape, but I'll still replace it.

Contactor should arrive tomorrow so I'll post pictures of that when I get it.

Also, I think the sight glasses could do with being replaced, can't seem to clean them

Thanks Phil, great to hear

I've just finished the light switch mounting things, so that's looking quite nice, especially considering you'll never see any of it.

I need to order some new belts from Rs anyway so may as well make an order.

What do I really need to ask them, as I still don't really know what I need. This would be preferable as it's cheaper.

Contactor should arrive tomorrow, so I'll start on the gaskets now!

Thanks again

Hopefully this doesn't make you go AAAAAAARGH!!!

Thanks, this is exactly why I'm showing it

I still don't want to put an extra plug on, I want it all to run from one cable. But I don't want to put in a neutral in either. Surely this worked once before, so the component must exist. So, where would I be able to get a 415v to 12v transformer?

**LINK** This maybe? A bit expensive

I've made a nice block for the switch to mount to, which is starting to look the part, a few more holes and it'll fit

Didn't get to start on the gaskets, but tomorrow is a new day!

Obviously the transformer won't be used anymore, but I took the pictures before I saw the message

Thanks, Phil and John

Just ordered a 400V one, the one I linked earlier, should be here on Thursday. I'll take the old one out then. Will the wiring be the same as it currently is?

Meanwhile, I've been looking at wiring for the lighting transformer, which seems to be pretty straightforward, but I'll post some pictures in case there's something I can't see is wrong.

This is the contactor that I bought

**LINK**

Yes, it does seem to be 240v, but it says somewhere about 440v being used? Can it be made to work or am I better off ordering a 440v one like this

**LINK**

As if so, I need to order it quickly since who knows how long the royal mail is going to keep going

Sorry about the faff, It shouldn't be too much of a problem. I might still be able to take it back

Just as I'd got the wires in too. Just my luck

Picture on the side of the contactor

Then my electrician friend put two brown wires into the contactor, I don't really know why, but I'm sure there was a reason for it

Now, As far as i understand, then from the diagram you drew for me, the yellow needs to go into L3, the blue into the holding in thing at the bottom, then the red into the top one?

I still need to connect all the blue yellow and red wires into the contactor? I'm not sure where they need to go, but looking at your diagram made a bit more sense

Or are you saying I need to connect the blue for the holding in switch elsewhere?

I'll get the pictures soon, just finishing some coursework

The blue yellow and red are all connected to the limit switch in the same locations as your lathe from the pictures you sent at the bottom of page 2 on this thread

Thanks, Phil, It really would have been a nightmare if I hadn't taken the motor plate out of the lathe! The jigsaw made it so much quicker, I would have been there a lot longer chain drilling and filing otherwise

I'll fit the blue and black wires then I'll get some more pictures for you. It didn't come with a diagram but there was a diagram on the side of the contactor so I'll get a picture of that for you

Then I'll start draining the lathe so I can work on the gaskets. I'll take lots of pictures so you'll know exactly what to do when you replace your bearings! (Not that it's particularly difficult)

Thanks

Good progress was made today

I blued up the motor plate, marked between the old holes, then plotted my new hole locations from that line.

I marked an inch wide slot, drilled the ends out, then used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to make slots, then filed the slots to size. Motor fits nicely with room for movement.

Once that was done, I took advantage of the motor plate being out as I cleaned loads of gunk out from the frame. Then I looked at the limit switches wiring. I had Issues as the wire wasn't long enough to reach, but I found some slack, twisted the wires and got it all sorted.

So, the next task is to redo the gaskets and sort out the contactor. I need a little help figuring out the contactor since I'm not sure where the wires need to go

So, from Phils lathes wiring, I understand I need the three blue cables coming from the switch to go into the L1 L2 and L3 at the top of the contactor.

The yellow needs to go into the top of the contactor, then the red and blue somewhere else? Which ones do they need to go in?

Also, which ones do the cables to the motor go in. Do they go into the lowest 3 at the bottom, or the other 4 on the relay?

Looks like we're on lockdown now, So I may as well get it all done!

Thanks

Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 23/03/2020 21:18:53

Thanks, Howard

Problem with that is, I've taken the mounting plate out of the lathe already, and I'm quite tight on space when it's in there. I also don't have much space for marking the holes out while the motor is in place since the body lies over the holes as I cannot get a pen or marker in, nor a scribe as the casting is deeper than my scribes tip. I suppose I could make a tool

I'll have a look at trying that tomorrow!

Thanks!