Member postings for Dell

If it was me then I would call it a burr because everyone knows what a burr is so I can’t see the examiner marking down for that .

Dell

I am a beginner as far as the slightly larger lathes go as I have just got a Myford 10 having previously used a small Pultra 17/70 with a hand graver and apart from parting brass I found it difficult to part steel usually resorting to the hacksaw, now I have a rear tool post I don’t have any difficulty ( so far ) parting , I have parted brass, mild steel and silver steel, the reason that the rear inverted parting tool is better I think has to do with where the pressure is bought to bear on the various parts of the lathe and the tool not being forced into the stock but away, I am sure someone with more experience than me could explain it better, but I have found it is better to keep consistent feed and lubricant although I haven’t used lubricant on brass ( not sure about that ), as NDIY said above if your chuck is screwed on don’t run it backwards as it could unscrew the chuck hence having parting tool or other tool bit upside down in rear holder.

everything I have said above is just my own personal findings.

Dell

Block cookies not on but I have to login again on chrome, safari, and tried two others duck duck and another.

Dell

How do I check cookies are enabled ? I am on an iPad.

Dell

sods law didn’t have to login this time and I hadn’t been on here since this morning ????

Edited By Dell on 16/03/2023 15:29:12

Hopefully I won’t have to login every time because that gets annoying even if I don’t close page and go to check something I still have to login again, other forms I am on I never have to.

Dell

Hi Samual

no I didn’t make the rest and I don’t know if they are available, the ones for wood turning are to big but I do happen to have another one spare but slightly different, pm me if interested.

Dell

PS I decided to just add straight handles because I had a couple more clocks turn up yesterday so I need to get to the backlog.

That was my thinking hence getting the tool rest sorted, I do have the tangential tool so I will give it a go but I think it will take longer to do it using the lathe than it would with the graver.

Dell

I make a lot of small screws and have always turned the silver steel to size using a graver, not sure if I can turn steel down to small enough size using the compound but I will give it a go just in case I have been busy making a mounting so I can use the graver on my Myford, still got a couple of handles to make and do something about the horrible screw but I needed to be able to mount the tool rest to be able to make the handles but nearly there now , I will make the handles tomorrow using the graver, I know there's a device to be able to make handles but I haven't got one and anyway I enjoy using the graver.
Dell

Thanks for replies

Mike as I said I will use my BA tap & die set as I do now but it’s nice to know how to if the need arises.

George

yes I did know that the wheels are the same , and 21 tooth change wheels don’t seem to be available even second hand, thanksfor the link to Duncan’s program.

Dell

I did two different searches John and they never showed up although there was some other post but not what I was looking for.

Bazyle

i have sent you a pm.

thanks

Dell

I feel sure that this must have been asked before but I am dammed if I can find anything in the search I have been looking at the change gears on my new to me Myford ML10 today and I googled what’s in a standard set but that wasn’t much help either because I have found three different versions of a standard set.

I have 2X20 all others are singles 25 30 32 35 38 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 and I think the one on the spindle is 25 but threaded I think, I don’t know how much I am going to use the but I will use them to get to know how to use them just in case, most of the clocks I repair/ restore are BA or very old so I have to use thread plates, I would also like to be able to cut metric and possibly BA although I have BA taps & dies, have read that 2X 21’s an 80 a 127 although I think that would be way to big but Myford say 11 extras are needed .

I know there are some very learned people on here so if anyone can make things less confusing it would be much appreciated, I can’t see the point of having the lathe and not being able to use it to its full potential if need be.

I have just had to order a retaining funny looking hollow bolt because when I took the cover off where the change wheels go it fell out luckily I hadn’t used it with the change wheels.

Dell

The reason for knurling was so I can remove the base to turn the inner part round as it’s going to have a point on one end and a divot in the other so I can use it for bothe my BA and metric taps.

Dell

Thanks once again for the replies, I will do a bit more experimenting, I am not able to drill the knurled knob on the tool because the threaded stud comes all the way through, so I will try what JasonB suggests first and if that doesn’t work then maybe mill two flats on the knurled part of the tool to be able to use a spanner.

Dell

I have just looked at Joe Pie’s video and he suggests pinching tightly to start so I will add a T bar and try that on a bit of scrap see what happens.

Dell

Thanks for all replies

Clive

i recently purchased a Myford ML10

Other members

here is a close up picture as requested, also the steel is EN1A so not hard , I had tool on centre of bar, here is a picture of my tool and I did use cutting oil, I have gout in my hands so I probably was not able to turn the knob enough due to lack of grip, I have noticed that even though the tool is new there is some play of the knurling wheels on there shafts, it looks to be the same tool as JasobB is using and his has turned out fine.

Dell

I have getting used to my new lathe by making a saw arbor for a 0.3mm blade and as far as I am concerned it turned out okay, but now I am making a spring loaded tap follower but the knurling has turned out rubbish, I have a knurling tool clamp type with a screwed knurled nut any suggestions please.

Thanks Dell

I don’t agree that it’s our end because it is the same whatever device I am using , iPhone, iPad Mac, or pc, I have pc on my Mac, it’s just frustrating that even if I don’t close the tab but just check an email that has just come in and then go back to forum I still have to login again, I have had instances where it looks like I am still logged in I have written a post click to post and then it comes up saying you need to be logged in to do this , so I login and loose the post and have to start again.

Dell

Does anyone else have to login every time they go onto forum ? , I have tried various other browsers all the same.

Dell

Many years ago when I made all the steel & aluminium panels and skins for vintage R/R and Bentley I used imperial for measurements plus my eyes, and BA and imperial fixings but for the last 20+ years I have been using metric, now I have an imperial lathe I am glad I have digital micrometer & callipers, so until I get imperial back in my head I can cross reference, luckily my mill has dro..

Dell

Okay so I changed my mind yet again, ( wife said it’s her place to change her mind not mine ) anyway I decided to use the original tool post stud and bore out a bush and the sleeve on top of Multifix, although I hadn’t done any boring before I found it was just as easy to bore as it is to turn down the OD apart from not being able to see what’s happening, I decided to make the bush first just in case I cocked the boring part up as I didn’t want to cock up the sleeve on the Multifix, I knew I had to shorten the stud but didn’t count on having to alter the nut as well because the adjuster on the tool holder fouled on it , I ended up cutting it in half and milling a couple of flats on it , ( it only needed one but looked odd ), I have about 1.5mm of adjustment so am happy with the outcome

Dell