Member postings for Dell

That sounds like 3AT to me do a search for that.

Dell

I am with you Peter being hard of hearing even the wife get fed up with repeating herself, let alone people on the other end of the telephone.

Dell

I understand it’s not everyone and I always just write my message and leave everything else it’s just annoying.

Why do people advertise stuff in the classified section then not bother to reply to emails?

I understand sometimes they may be on holiday or working away but this has happened to me three times if they are away it’s not difficult to add to advert , if sold say so or answer emails even if it’s bugger off I don’t want to sell to you but totally ignoring is annoying.

okay had my rant now dell

I have just had a message saying did you receive a payment from HHS ( googled and health & human services America) because he said I saw your name on the list and as I have had my payment I am just checking because if you haven’t then you need to get in touch, deleted and blocked, they used a name of someone I know, they must think we have just arrived on the latest banana boat

 forgot to say he couldn’t have seen my name on a list because I don’t use my name on facebook so he couldn’t know it.

Edited By Dell on 15/06/2023 18:45:06

I restore antique clocks and I use my mill and proper size reamers but as you haven’t got that then either bush by hand or if you have a mill or even a pillar drill then work out what side of hole has worn then gently file the opposite side so it matches the wear , then use a known small centre, I have one I turned up on the lathe in Chuck or collet to centre it on hole and clamp plate while centred , drill using a short spot drill , the replacement bush must be a press fit and the bush must be big enough to allow up to a 5% tilt otherwise clock won’t run and when arbor between plates it must have end shake.

as for the escape wheel you can draw the teeth back out using a smooth pair of pliers just gently pinch the tooth with the flat part of the tooth against the one jaw then gently draw the pliers back , I have done it many times but it takes time.

I am on holiday until 17th but I may have an escape wheel and if you want me to bush it for you then you are welcome to PM me.

Dell

Edited By Dell on 14/06/2023 07:18:09

I have keyless go on my Mercedes and if I press the fob twice quickly the first locks the car and the second turns the fob off until I press unlock.

Dell

Thanks for all the replies, I think I have opened a can of worms , I have received my copy of Trubal cains book and this is helpful.

but it still doesn’t answer the question of unknown thread forms pre 1900 , could be Thury or could be something developed by individual clock manufacturers, all the clocks I restore I like and try to keep them as original as I possibly can and as much as possible use the original fixings but sometimes I have to make copies of screws but they need to be to original specification ( if possible) , yes BA, metric, and Thury, are all very similar because they are all based on metric measurements and it’s possible to re tap but then the next person to dismantle the clock has one original screw and one non original but both look the same , what one goes in what hole but if both or more are identical then no problem, so it’s not just for my benefit.

Dell

I think that just for one thread form for one clock then the optical projector is wasted money , I need to have am easy way just to cut the one off thread and carry on using taps and dies for the common threads even if it means grinding HSS to suit , I have used peg wood in the past to cut a thread on to measure using pitch gauges..

MG I will have a look at the link you posted.

Dell

Once again thanks for replies

my test was only on a M8X1.25 as I have the required nut to test, I watched a Joe Pie video and he suggested that the flat on the tool should be approximately 1/8th of the pitch , as the HSS tool I was using had a sharp point that was probably the reason, so has Clive said that if said tool had a flat of the correct size ground on the end then the tool would need to go in further to give the correct depth, so it makes sense that if the flat ground onto the end of the tool removed say 1mm then the tool would need to go in that 1mm on -X, single point is all new to me but hopefully I am learning.

But the next problem comes with how much to grind the bit down and how to measure it.

Dell

Thanks for the replies

MG yes please what are the work arounds.

SOD I have ordered that book, yes I think I am capable of making taps and dies but it’s measuring said threads

JB I have only used taps& dies because most of what I do is either small BA or metric although both very similar but it’s more for the odd ball , I have both HSS and indexing and my understanding was that indexing would do a range of threads.

Dell

I am trying to get to grips with my Rocketronics ELS ( threading) there are a few parameters I need to put into the controller before auto threading, pitch (metric ), ( if imperial tpi convert to metric) length of thread, depth of cut, angle of cut, it’s the depth of thread I am having trouble with, a google search turns up 6 or more formulas for working out, same on YouTube so I am totally confused ( not difficult at my age ) , if it wasn’t auto threading it would be a trial & error method cut try a nut cut and so on, I am sure someone on here will have a definitive answer.
Some of the clocks pre 1900 I do the manufacture had there own thread forms and they were made using thread plates and although I have some they don’t cover all manufacturers, it would be nice to also be able to work out a way to find the pitch and form of them as well , I know I can use a pitch gauge to find something near but is there a formula for doing it, for example did they all use tpi per inch or something else.
thanks Dell

First cuts with the Rocketronics ELS, Not the best of videos but at least it shows the ELS working , I didn’t have the backlash setting correctly with the first cut but after checking several times in various places it averaged out at 0.003” so the second cut was pretty much spot on

**LINK**

Dell

ITS ALIVE

I have spent the last god knows how many days wiring everything up and although I I have only made sure the steppers are working I am chuffed to bits, I have only tried the fast and slow jog on both the leadscrew and the crosslide they are working albeit the wrong way round but that can be easily changed in the settings along with some other settings IE pitch of lead screws , how much backlash each screw has ( very hand that it takes that into account)

plus a few other settings, I have already put the leadscrew 8 tpi converted to 3.175mm in the settings but I am unable to find the pitch of the crosslide screw , I would have thought it would be in the manual but I can’t find it, so if anyone knows what the pitch of a Myford 10 imperial crosslide screw is it would be much appreciated.

Dell

never mind I have found it 10 tpi converts to 2.540mm.

Edited By Dell on 06/05/2023 16:07:34

Had to clean the swarf before I started, then I had three clocks come in so I had to make a mess again to make some screws as a few were to damaged to repair, it’s fun making 10 & 12 BA screws on the Myford, it was easier when I had the Pultra but don’t have room for both much to my annoyance.

Thanks for your help Dell

Thanks for the replies but as the benefit of the Rj45 is the shielded cable according to Rocketronics and as I am using shielded cable anyway I can’t see it would be any different, so have decided to wire direct.
Finally finished fitting the X stepper today, the end of the leadscrew had no thread on the last 12mm but was tapered so I turned it true using a graver then used a length of 10mm silver steel bored a hole to suit the leadscrew and then drilled both for a pin but I also used locktite, so that is all the mechanical work finished now also been doing some of the wiring while I am waiting for the new encoder to arrive

Dell

Thanks Matt

would that be how I buggered up the encoder and as I haven’t got that thing then would I be better connecting direct ?

Dell

PS hope you don’t mind but I have sent you a pm asking a question as I am not very up on electronics.

Hi Matt

that question went straight over my head, this is the encoder

**LINK**

Dell

A bit of an update on my Rocketronics journey, stepper fitted, encoder fitted, electronics installed In cabinet, some how I made a balls up, the instructions said to connect encoder using Rj45 connector but some how when fitting the Rj45 plug the live ( red) and ground ( black ) got crossed so have had to order another encoder from Germany, so waiting for that to arrive, a bit annoying but there it is.

while I await the encoder I am having a think as to fitting the X stepper onto the back of the crosslide, not sure how I am going to do that yet as I don’t want it on the front.

I have since the picture was taken cut the banjo arm to just leave the bit around the leadscrew, and fitted the belts to make sure everything runs true although I have removed the spindle to encoder one.

Dell

I have been reading this post with interest, due to the problem I have with my hand and getting worse and eyes not as good as they used to be , I have bitten the bullet and ordered the full kit from Rocketronics, I ordered some pulley’s from makers hut and what a load of rubbish they are serves me right for cutting costs so they are going back, I have now ordered some from gear & sprockets, although the kit hasn’t arrived yet ( but cleared customs ) I can’t do to much but I have worked out where to fit the Z stepper and pre made the bracket and yes I did make a mistake and drilled the holes in wrong place but it’s only a mounting plate and the plate is fixed using the 2 bolts that bolt the motor mount so no hole drilling , I am also fairly sure I can mount the encoder where the change wheels were ( fingers crossed) I will start a new post when I get going properly.

Dell