Member postings for paul mcquaid

Hi.

I don't know if anyone is interested in this item. But if you want a slim spanner to fit perfectly between the Myford ML7 jacking nut, without ruining a spanner by having to grind it thinner, I found this on Amazon. Sourcing Map Thin Open End wrench, 14mm x 15mm metric £6.99 free P&P Which for less than £7 saves a lot of time trying to decide "Do I really want to grind down one my spanners? What if I find I need it someday for some heavy duty work and it needs its full thickness?"

I don't know about anyone else on here but I go into panic mode if I can't use a tool for what it is designed for? So when I saw this I thought not only is is it ideal for my Myford setting up, But I'm sure I'll use it for other hard to access jobs too..

Thanks mate I will.

It makes it a lot easier to understand seeing the work being done as opposed to reading about it. which with some authors can make it sound quite daunting...

Since reading all the above comments some very informative (some judgemental for lack of my knowledge!) I have also bought the much talked about 100mm three jaw, Which seems to be very accessible, with a backplate available (pre-machined too!) Strange that. But of course it's my own fault for not knowing these things... Learning all the time though.

It's just a shame that not everybody knows the things that make engineers roll their eyes up at eh?

Thank you for all the helpful answers by people that understand where I'm coming from. It's good to know there are some that like to share their knowledge not just scorn...

The reason I bough a 4 jaw SC chuck, Is I had read they hold the round bars better than 3 Jaw and my work is not going to be light brass etc, but heavy stainless and maybe some Aluminium Round bar mainly and eventually maybe screw cutting for special bolts and bits.

Sorry everyone for not realising I needed to put down my personal information and have realised it come under settings instead of being labelled Personal Information. it is all completed now though. I hope I haven't offended anybody for my rant. I was Polite when I spoke to Myford, Not very happy with the lack of explanation.. But realised I wasn't going to get it sorted any other way so bit the bullet and paid the £150. So at least I can get on with learning how to check the trueness of the lathe now... Fingers crossed.

Do to you think It would be ok to tap it it out with a long tube like a drift?

Hi Mate.

The trouble is I haven't got that far yet, I needed a chuck to hold the bar to true the lathe first. I have only just been given it. and came with no chuck (or was lost) Can I ask a silly question? I noticed inside the spindle tube (At least I think that's what the bit the chuck screws onto is called?) there is a copper or brass ring. Is it supposed to be there or has it been jammed in by coming off something in the past? If it is supposed to be there what is it for If not how do I get it out as I am assuming its a taper?

Thanks for all the useful advise. The main thing I was trying to say is that the chuck I was mentioning is made by the same manufacturer and Myford produce batches of backplates designed to fit them they sell them complete and could easily sell them as a separate item, Much like I can get mounting kit's for my Harley to mount other makes of parts to it. If anything they would probably find they can make quite a good turnover of profit on it too! Myford is one example I am sure there are lot's more...

Should say Buy. Not But.

I am becoming increasingly frustrated about the lack of help for wanna be engineer's to start out. Without any basic knowledge.

The first problem I encountered was trying to get info from companies on how to set up my Warco MD30B Mill. So I turned to this sight and managed to gain enough info to sort this out, Which was actually a lot easier than first suggested.

Now to complement the Mill I have obtained a Myford ML7 lathe which came with lots of extra's but no Chuck, and I was advised to get a self centering so opted for a 5" 4 jaw type and saw one on Ebay put a cheeky bid in for and won a brand new K12 type 5" chuck. Result I thought and sure enough it came a couple of days later. Job done? Nope! Apparently It comes with no way of actually being able to fit it because it comes with no back to it! So I messaged them, that it has no back and it doesn't actually show any pictures from the back otherwise I would have known this. Ok I said "How much is one?" They replied "Oh we don't sell them, You would have to buy one from Myford!" So I phoned Myford and they said "Yes we do one in that size, £29. Oh so that's not too bad I thought and ordered one which came about four days later, I opened the box, To be greeted with 1 5" backplate without any holes or anything apart from the Myford mount fixing. Now I know all of you will be saying that's how they come and you have to drill the holes yourself, But you also have to make a recess in the plate for it to locate. This I found out after I phoned to ask what the hell is this I have been sent. Then the bloke said we sell the same chuck complete with the machine backplate for £150.00. So I said I have got the chuck already how much would the machined backplate cost? He replied, "We don't sell them". I said "So you sell the plain plate separately, But you don't sell the machined plate separately at a higher price? But you do sell it if you buy the chuck as well? Which will cost over double the price? Do you see where I'm coming from now? If you don't already know things to start with nobody will tell you all the things to look out for. Myford could quite easily get a batch of these plates machined up to sell as a separate item. But won't so the learning engineer has to either pay someone to sort the blank out or pay extortionate amount's because of the lack of knowledge. At the end of the day all I was trying to do like most of you is buy a part at a lower price in order to be able to use my lathe and learn as go. It's hardly going to encourage anyone to keep the trade going in years to come is it? My Dilemma would be Because I don't actually have a chuck on the Lathe how would I actually be able to machine anything down let alone precision tolerances like this sort of thing?? I had to pay the price because I am a novice and feel this is a bigoted discrimination because of a lack of information and knowledge we might have.

I am not saying everyone is, Just that the information out there needs to be more accessible. Especially from the aftersales side for accessories and spares. Because I doubt in any of the engineering books does it state. "Beware when buying a new chuck for a Myford, Because If you want to but a chuck, you will have to buy either one that has the backplate already fitted for about three times the price! Or you will only be able to get a cheaper version of exactly the same make and model by paying a qualified engineer which will still cost about the same again! Unless you already are a capable engineer that can machine such tolerances. In which case instead of £150, You can buy it for £40!!

Actually scrap that its 19 yrs newer as that sold one is a 1980 model!

That one didn't even have the base either, Mine is a 1999 model too so 9 years newer. so I'm pretty happy with that.

No mate,

It's definitely a Major MD30B apart from the single pinch bolt all the specs are for the major.

I only used it for the tramming.

I have got er32 collets that I use for the milling etc, but just though that the chuck would be easier to get the size of the shaft, and as there is no weight bearing to do this procedure can't see why it would make a lot of difference.

Thanks Nick.

I am pretty new to all this and precision for me used to be "well if it looks straight then that will be good enough" The same if it looks the right shape and doesn't have to much play then job done! I never went to college or evening classes so I am just self teaching and getting a lot of advise especially from you guy's, So it is much appreciated. pretty much everything I have done in my life has been self taught from learning mechanics, Welding, Becoming an Mot tester i went through the hardest Way possible to gain the qualifications all done well into my 30's so late developer. Now I want to learn machining on both lathe and milling machines which i have decided to obtain... It's taken me this long to Justify to myself spending out on something I haven't got the slightest inkling of setting up let alone using, mainly so I can make parts for my bike from scratch not have to buy something costing hundreds of pounds only to find I have to modify the damn thing because it doesn't fit my bike or work how I wanted it to. So you might find I maybe asking a lot of stupid questions and you will think does he know anything?... so I apologise in advance to everyone.

Regards to all of you who have replied and have been reading .

Paul.

Oh wow.

So £450 is pretty good then? Lol

Hi,DiogenesII,

Now i've got that sorted everything seem good in the world.

Just out of curiosity what would you expect to pay for this unit complete with base drill chuck, mill chuck and tilting vice? I'm not selling, Just curious.

I am not sure if this is going to work but I am trying to post a couple of snaps of my first Tram adjust.

Hi Nigel.

I have finally got to the bottom of this.

My Warco was built with just the one pinch bolt which is mainly found on the Ajax 30 model, some Rf30 and some Warco MD30's.

The actual machine is made By a company in Taiwan Called Complex machine. and most companies including Axminster and Chester amongst many others.

The tramming I have now sorted hopefully, was adjusted by loosening the four bolts holding the head to the the base X&Y axis table and sliding in shim sheet, It is now around 0.0005mm or what ever the metric reading of a dial test indicator outer digit should read.. Which according to one person is about as perfect as you can get without trying to find a shim sheet thin enough to actually make a perfect zero. It took a shim of 0.05mm and 0.01mm to get it to that, and to be quite honest if that isn't good enough then sod it! it'll do for me when I want to make my bits for my bike,I think that kind of discrepancy isn't really going to be noticed.