Here is a list of all the postings AJAX has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Removing lathe cross slide handle |
05/01/2021 11:12:00 |
Posted by Clive Foster on 05/01/2021 10:07:00:
That needle roller thrust bearing has the air of being a later addition rather than factory fit. Once you have the hole sorted its probably easiest to simply add shims behind the inner thrust washer to take up clearance. What it did with a similar sort of modification, albeit using dry bearing thrust washers rather than a needle roller to save space. Recess made a little too deep so the gap could be measured with a feeler gauge. Frankly if you have the makings and just decide to go for it its quicker to shim or make a second, longer, collar after measuring the gap with your first effort than it is to futz about arranging adjustment and setting up just so. I suspect the hole error occured when re-making the collar. Ultimate bodge on the mal-aligned hole is metal loaded filler. If worked in well a good brand is well up to that sort of job. Clive Maybe you are right - it could be a later addition - who knows? Making a collar would be simple enough but it would be nice to add some form of adjustment or loading (spring?) or at least consider doing so instead of to shim. Some of the decision making may depend on how well I can clean that dial. If I can't make it readable then I'll have to buy or make a new one. |
05/01/2021 09:05:21 |
Posted by not done it yet on 05/01/2021 08:00:53:
Are you sure the pin and collar, adjacent to the thrust bearing are correct? I might envisage a parallel pin located in the collar such that the collar would turn and alter the thrust adjustment as the thing wad assembled. Meaning that perhaps the collar should have slots at a slight angle, not a couple of apparently mis-drilled holes? That would make sense as it would allow for some adjustment. However, the collar is definitely mis-drilled on one side and exits as a single hole on the other. I would like to come up with a better solution to take up any slack when it is re-assembled. |
04/01/2021 23:59:27 |
I was actually surprised to find the needle roller bearings in place as I had planned to shim and/or add such bearings myself. The next job will probably be a complete strip down of the apron. I know the worm is very badly worn (I had it apart once before) and would like to get this replaced somehow. |
04/01/2021 23:56:30 |
Progress made. Two pins found and both tapped out with some encouragement. Neither were willing to press out with the (mostly unsuitable) tools I had available. The one closest to the end was drilled slightly off centre and the other one, well I can only speculate was drilled by a YTS trainee on his first day at work. Even though it's hidden, I will most likely be remaking that part! |
04/01/2021 18:00:51 |
Thanks Old Mart and Pete. I will take a look later this evening. I'm working now and then the kids have to go to bed first... |
04/01/2021 17:42:15 |
I have found a working drawing for the top slide leadscrew. I have yet to check, but it looks like it may be the correct drawing. If it is, the leadscrew is drilled and reamed for 5/32" dia taper pins. I may be back later... |
04/01/2021 06:53:01 |
Posted by Clive Foster on 04/01/2021 00:05:44:
Ajax The hole in the pin doesn't look very round. Suggests a roll pin has been fitted in place of a taper pin originally used to retain the handle. As I recall it the couple of instances I've seen were very similar in appearance. If that has been done you need to figure out the small end and drive the roll pin back out the correct way. It will leave a mess and will need re-reaming. I've found a soft wire brush is a good place to start on dials like yours. The small brass ones for Dremel and similar machines have worked well for me. Patience and a light touch. Clive Thanks for that, Clive. I agree with your suggestion that it could be a roll pin. I had a light tap previously believing the same but it did not budge. Perhaps it was in a tapered hole as you suggested and I was going the wrong way. Tricky to tell. I will take another look later today. Regards, Brian
|
04/01/2021 00:01:55 |
I'm wondering if there is a taper pin there but as I can't actually see it I would have no idea which way the taper ran.
|
03/01/2021 23:54:08 |
I would like to remove the cross slide handle from the leadscrew which I assumed would be a simple task. I assumed it might be held with a pin or grub screw but on closer inspection I can see neither. However, the light and my eyes aren't great. I'm hoping there may be another Denford owner who can explain the process. There is a "through hole" of some sort as demonstrated when I squirted WD40 straight through. The end looks like it may have been tapped with a hammer at some point, so maybe that is what is keeping it in place. Does anyone have useful ideas for how I might go about improving the appearance and usability of the graduated dial when I can get it off? In a closely related question, I would be interested in experiences of machining a new plain / slotted cross slide for the purposes of attaching a vertical milling slide. I have access to a Bridgeport-sized milling machine at work but no surface grinder. |
Thread: Improved performance over standard V belts? |
31/12/2020 20:53:24 |
Posted by pgrbff on 31/12/2020 16:52:02:
I have read on more than one occasion that the type of drive belt shown above can reduce transmitted vibration and offer improved performance. Could this be true? I have to replace two 1300mm belts and was considering trying to source some. I fitted one to my denford lathe for the same reason it has been mentioned it is easier to fit to a boxford. It is easy to fit. It has worked fine. Not stretched. About average noise. Due to price I would not fit one unless I had to. Vee belts work just fine for me. |
Thread: Difficulty Operating Solenoids with an Arduino Uno |
29/12/2020 13:17:38 |
Posted by James Alford on 29/12/2020 11:17:34:
My questions now are:
Thank you. James.
James, I have only just read your updated question. Short answer - don't use a transistor. Don't use a MOSFET. Use a Darlington array (ULN2803) "The ULN2803A device is a 50 V, 500 mA Darlington transistor array. The device consists of eight NPN Darlington pairs that feature high-voltage outputs with common-cathode clamp diodes for switching inductive loads. The collector-current rating of each Darlington pair is 500 mA. The Darlington pairs may be connected in parallel for higher current capability. Applications include relay drivers, hammer drivers, lamp drivers, display drivers (LED and gas discharge), line drivers, and logic buffers. The ULN2803A device has a 2.7-kΩ series base resistor for each Darlington pair for operation directly with TTL or 5-V CMOS devices. " Note that base resistors are in the package so you don't need to add resistors in-line with the microcontroller outputs. You should make use of the internal diodes to clamp any inductive spikes from the loads. Brian |
29/12/2020 13:02:42 |
IRL540N is a logic level MOSFET that may suit. https://docs.rs-online.com/8d29/0900766b80028e3a.pdf Edited By AJAX on 29/12/2020 13:06:19 |
29/12/2020 12:59:39 |
IRF3205 https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/download_datasheet.php?id=436025&part-number=IRF3205 Edited By AJAX on 29/12/2020 13:07:09 |
29/12/2020 12:55:16 |
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 29/12/2020 12:31:48:
Posted by AJAX on 28/12/2020 23:49:19: For a switching application I would suggest use of a logic-level N-channel MOSFET. Off the top of my head, an IRF3205 would be fine........................... The IRF3205 doesn't look like a logic level MOSFET according to the datasheet I downloaded? A simple NPN transistor, such as the FMMT491, will work fine. For bipolars it's good practice to have a resistor from base to emitter, say 10k. Same for a MOSFET, say 100k from gate to source. When processors power up most GPIO pins come up as inputs by default. The purpose of the resistors is to ensure that the transistor is off when the base/gate is essentially floating. I'd agree with John Haine that an Avo is not the best choice of meter; a 'scope would be ideal. It's not true to say that MOSFETs need no drive current. They can require substantial current, albeit for a short time. On the datasheet gate charge is the key parameter. For digital ICs the majority of the current consumption is due to charging and discharging the gates during switching. Andrew Thanks for making me check the datasheet. https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/232/IRF3205-pdf.php Fig 3. Typical Transfer Characteristics indicates a drain-source current of about 50A with a 5V logic signal from the microcontroller. It may not be a true logic level MOSFET but should be fine for this application. VGS(th) Gate Threshold Voltage 2.0 ––– 4.0 V VDS = VGS, ID = 250µA |
29/12/2020 12:45:46 |
The maximum output from an individual Uno pin is 40mA (but never exceed 30mA because they go pop!), and the total current taken by all output pins must be less than 100mA. With a 220ohm resistor between pin 13 and the transistor base, the max current from I=V/R will be 23mA, or 128mA in total if all six relays are operated at the same time. No problem doing 4 relays together, but all 6 is pushing it. Increasing the 220 ohm resistor to 330ohm would add a safety margin. AJAX mentioned the BC547B being a small signal transistor (max 100mA) isn't ideal for a solenoid, and it's certainly too small for a 0.25A device! I'd substitute a switching transistor like the 2N2222A, which is good for 0.8A. Same circuit, just a beefier transistor. (AJAX's FET is good for over 100A, and needs less drive current!)
Check the datasheet for the 2N2222A - https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/296640.pdf Ic (max) = 800 mA This is an absolute maximum rating. The suggested MOSFET is a voltage operated device and for most purposes can be assumed to draw no current on the gate input. As you say, it is capable of switching a large current but it can also be used to switch a very small current too. RDS(on) is very low, only 8 mOhm making it good for power applications. https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/232/IRF3205-pdf.php Edited By AJAX on 29/12/2020 12:46:12 |
29/12/2020 12:35:37 |
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 29/12/2020 09:52:57:
Port bits ("pins" ) used as outputs must be declared as outputs. Outputs don't have extra "oomph". Inputs configured with internal pullups may be a cause of confusion? Current is not "absorbed". I realise this is an attempt to explain the situation using layman's terms, but it may be useful for the unaware to read about charge conservation and Kirchoff's current law (KCL). An ideal MOSFET ("ideal" doesn't really exist) has an infinite gate impedance and will not draw any current. A real world MOSFET such as the IRF3205 has a very high gate impedance and small gate capacitance and so any transitory current (to charge the gate) can be ignored. In some applications it may be necessary to add a resistor between the microcontroller pin and the MOSFET gate, but in this application it is not required. Edited By AJAX on 29/12/2020 12:36:05 |
29/12/2020 00:13:27 |
28/12/2020 23:57:02 |
Another point, most standard 5mm red LEDs have a maximum forward current of about 15 - 20 mA. Check the data sheet if you have one. If not, choose a current limiting resistor that limits current to about 10 mA. You can assume Vf is about 2V. |
28/12/2020 23:49:19 |
Posted by Stuart Smith 5 on 28/12/2020 23:29:04:
You have some of the connections wrong. This should work: With Arduino pin 13 output high, the solenoid coil should be energised. I think! Stuart Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 28/12/2020 23:31:32 Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 28/12/2020 23:31:55 I believe that James wants the LED to act as an indicator for the solenoid (LED on when the coil is energised). The LED therefore needs to be placed in parallel (forward biased) with the solenoid load. The solenoid is an inductive load and the circuit should be protected with a freewheeling or flyback diode. 1N4001 in reverse bias with the solenoid would be fine. The use of low-side switching where the load is placed on the collector side of the the transistor "switch" is correct for this application. Assuming pin 13 outputs a logic high of about 5V and Vbe 0.7V this will draw about 20 mA base current. BC547 is a small signal transistor and not ideally suited to switching solenoids and you'd have to be careful of the expected collector current. For a switching application I would suggest use of a logic-level N-channel MOSFET. Off the top of my head, an IRF3205 would be fine and would be able to handle substantially more current than you will switch. The MOSFET requires no resistor on the gate. Any charge on the gate due to gate capacitance would discharge (sink) back to pin 13 during logic low. Do you need a circuit drawn? Brian |
Thread: Hacksaw blade orientation - your opinion please |
12/12/2020 17:46:32 |
Posted by peak4 on 12/12/2020 14:17:14:
Finally the mid sized Manchester Rapidor Minor (9" blade) isn't immediately obvious. On closer inspection, the angle of the blade isn't parallel to the motion of the frame in which it sits. It is lower at the rear, so when it cuts on the forward stroke, the dashpot provides pressure relief on the return stroke. Edited By peak4 on 12/12/2020 14:41:22 I sold a Rapidor Manchester today that had a modified vice with the fixed jaw at the front and movable at the rear (closest to the driving linkage). That actually made sense especially as the blade was set to cut on the forward stroke. On the other hand, my Q&S 6H cuts on the pull stroke and has the fixed jaw at the rear. The hydraulic relief gives a very slight lift (or reduction of weight) on the forward stroke. |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.