Member postings for AJAX

Here is a list of all the postings AJAX has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Progress with the Progress drill
22/10/2021 00:30:09
Posted by Pete. on 21/10/2021 23:11:38:

looks like a nice little project, hope we get to see it finished

Thanks Pete.

Here are some more photos in case anyone is interested.

The spindle has 2 pairs of bearings and you'll also see the electric motor which came with the drill. I've cleaned the motor up and resprayed, checked the internal wiring, earth leakage testing, etc. I haven't yet decided whether to keep this motor (I have a few others to choose from) or install a 3 phase + VFD instead. I will make that decision later.

20211021-234031 20211021-234039 20211021-234047 20211021-234100 20211021-234107 20211021-234120 20211021-234223 20211021-234236 20211021-235250 20211021-235301 20211022-000652 20211022-000713 20211022-000858
21/10/2021 11:51:25
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 21/10/2021 11:32:30:

Posted by AJAX on 21/10/2021 11:18:46:

[…]

As for "firmly tightened"... It's more like welded on!

.

It might be worth devising some sort of adapter, and then asking the local tyre fitter to apply their impact wrench.

MichaelG.

An excellent suggestion but I have finally got it off! Holding on to the pulley without damaging it was proving to be a pain until I realized the obvious and got out some rope.

20211021-114459 20211021-114535
Thread: Stripping down Elliott Progress No. 1 Mk. 1 bench drill press
21/10/2021 11:26:42

That "hole for a bar" was a red herring which should be ignored. From my experience with other drills, I thought I could remove the "cover" and expose the return spring without removing the handle and rack gear. I was wrong. When I figured things were gummed up with 75 years of dried up grease, I managed to tap the whole assembly out.

246434070-599093041523632-6900266691442594882-n
Thread: Progress with the Progress drill
21/10/2021 11:21:53
Posted by not done it yet on 21/10/2021 10:43:42:

Well, at a guess, I would say the pulley is on a taper.

OP refrains from telling us who gave the right info to get the quill out, so I’ll leave to him to find a way of releasing the pulley without damaging/destroying it. I would also suggest that the likely pair of roller bearings should be replaced with new once the machine is dismantled.

The bottom set of bearings run very smoothly. I'm hoping any more that I encounter when I finally shift the pulley will be the same.

If confirmed it is on a taper I may try a new approach, but I'm reluctant to use gear pullers on a fragile cast aluminium pulley.

21/10/2021 11:18:46
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 21/10/2021 10:53:02:

You may find some comfort in this thread from 2014 : **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=102236

My guess is that the aforementioned left-hand thread is simply very firmly tightened.

MichaelG.

Thanks, I have now resurrected the old thread. smiley

As for "firmly tightened"... It's more like welded on!

Thread: Progress No.1 Drill
21/10/2021 11:17:00
Posted by Keith Calleja on 04/12/2014 12:42:42:

Hi, I recently bought this Progress No.1 Bench Drill which I am currently rebuilding and restoring. At the moment I am going to fit new bearings for the replaced motor (Gryphon single phase 1HP) and new bearings for the spindle/pulleys. Then I will continue stripping the old paint and painting it with new paint. Will be fitting the MT1 with a ER26 Collet holder and fitting an old Mercer Dial Gauge to the feed gauge. I also need to fabricate some of the missing parts like: Tool Tray, Black Knobs (ebay), Feed Handles x3, top fixing nut/spring/stud, Feed gauge knurled nuts, grease nipples (local stores), new braided power cable (local stores).

It was in good working condition but I will be re-wiring the whole thing with a new configuration to hopefully have a reverse function as well.

Photos to follow.

Keith,

I hope you don't mind me resurrecting such an old thread but I am currently restoring an old Progress No. 1 Mark 1 (very slightly older than yours, I think). I am struggling to remove the pulley from the spindle and I wonder if you could offer any advise.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=175183&p=1#2748745

 

Edited By AJAX on 21/10/2021 11:17:22

Thread: Progress with the Progress drill
21/10/2021 11:10:51
Posted by not done it yet on 21/10/2021 10:43:42:

Well, at a guess, I would say the pulley is on a taper.

OP refrains from telling us who gave the right info to get the quill out, so I’ll leave to him to find a way of releasing the pulley without damaging/destroying it. I would also suggest that the likely pair of roller bearings should be replaced with new once the machine is dismantled.

Let me see if I can track down the previous post. But in case the suspense is too great, I discovered the quill return spring "cover" was not removable (despite my best efforts!) but simply knocked through with a tap from the handle side.

246434070-599093041523632-6900266691442594882-n
21/10/2021 10:50:45
Posted by Vic on 21/10/2021 10:10:57:

When I took my old Progress number one apart I struggled with one part only to discover there was a really thin snap ring holding it together. Once removed it came apart easily. It was just a very thin split ring of spring steel.

Vic, I haven't found any split rings so far but thanks for the heads-up. It didn't retain the pulley did it?

Edited By AJAX on 21/10/2021 10:51:08

21/10/2021 09:32:12

As mentioned in a previous thread, I am working on refurbishing an Elliott Progress No. 1 Mark 1 bench drill (dated about 1946).

I have successfully removed the quill and all that remains is the main spindle pulley which is proving very determined to stay put. I should add the pulley spins freely and the bearing feels good, but I wish to remove the pulley so I can strip and paint the whole machine.

If you look down through the bore you will see a key that engages with the sliding spindle. I can "lock" the pulley by reinstalling the corresponding keyed shaft, but I am reluctant to apply excessive force through this key / shaft.

At the top of the shaft, there is a part with a left hand thread which I assume locks the step-pulley into place. Incidentally, there is no other obvious way the pulley is locked, such as a grub screw.

I have attempted to remove the aforementioned locking part using various grips (I don't like doing so, but needs must) before / after applying heat (about 280 degrees) and penetrating oil. If I do get this off successfully, I may make a replacement part that is easier to remove or modify this one so am bar can be inserted for removal.

If all else fails I could consider cutting the pulley off to get a closer look, but I am very reluctant to do so.

Any suggestions?

Brian

20211020-075800 20211020-075843 20211021-090320 20211021-090331 20211021-090336 20211021-090400
Thread: Stripping down Elliott Progress No. 1 Mk. 1 bench drill press
20/10/2021 14:04:49

Thanks, Ady. I did try that before posting (it would make sense as I have some familiarity with part dismantling other drills) but it didn't want to budge. I may have to put a bar through and give it a sharp tap. I can't apply heat.

20/10/2021 08:19:32

Is anyone here familiar with how to remove the quill / spindle from this vintage drill? I have removed all obvious set screws and sprayed lots of release oil but there is no obvious (to me) method to remove the assembly. The spindle and bearings are in good condition (less than 0.15 mm of runout) but I would like to dissemble completely for a complete refurbishment. Curiously, I cannot find a set screw on the spindle pulley nor see a keyway or splines. I must be missing something obvious.

There are some good manufacturer photos on Tony's lathes website.

Thanks, Brian.

20211020-075714 20211020-075701 20211020-075722 20211020-075730 20211020-075735 20211020-075742 20211020-075800 20211020-075827 20211020-075843

Edited By AJAX on 20/10/2021 08:20:15

Thread: Paint stripper
17/10/2021 10:50:02

A quick update to say that I ended up trying "No Nonsense Paint and Varnish Stripper" (£5.99 for 0.5L) and it has worked better than expected. The paint doesn't fall off, but with a couple of applications the paint is greatly softened and can be scraped / wire brushed off with relative ease. I've tried it on iron, steel, brass and aluminium alloys and there has been no adverse reaction. I used it to strip the crown guard on my table saw (which I have since repainted) and I'm in the process of stripping parts on a small milling machine.

20211015-223900 20211016-224300 20211016-235959
09/10/2021 22:52:06
Posted by Thor 🇳🇴 on 08/10/2021 06:12:39:
Posted by AJAX on 07/10/2021 22:32:37:
Posted by Thor 🇳🇴 on 07/10/2021 17:44:51:

Hi Brian,

If you can buy sodium hydroxide (NaOH - caustic soda) where you live that may be one option. Cast iron or steel objects should be able to survive a dip in strong sodium hydroxide solution. Wear rubber gloves, safety glasses/face shield (preferably both) and protective clothing. Sodium hydroxide must be handled with care, after use you should neutralize it with acid, strong vinegar is one option.

Thor

Thor, giving this some more thought, can you suggest a mix ratio for stripping paint from iron / steel? You also mention neutralizing it with an acid, but how much would I need? Vinegar is easy to buy but I also happen to have some brick acid if that is useful. (**LINK**) Assume that I know nothing about chemistry and you won't be far wrong.

If you can find pH paper at your local chemist that would tell you when the solution is neutral. "Brick acid" or hydrochloric acid (HCl) would work well to neutralize the lye solution, just note that this too is an exothermic reaction so it may get hot. If using HCl to neutralize you end up with salt water so easily disposed of.

I have found a few notes on using caustic soda as paint stripper on the Internet that may be of help:

'''Link'''

'''Link'''

'''Link'''

If you "Google" using caustic soda as paint stripper you should find many more.

Thor

Edited By Thor 🇳🇴 on 08/10/2021 06:13:58

Reading that first link was sufficient to put me off using caustic soda. I'll just buy a commercial paint stripper and see if it works.

09/10/2021 22:41:49
Posted by colin brannigan on 09/10/2021 08:44:43:

I can recommend Final Systems paint stripper, it's available at your local auto paint shop but it's not cheap at £40 for 5L but it does work. I use for stripping paint off motorcycles and one tin will do about three to four machines, it is nasty stuff so take care.

Kind regards Colin

p1060778.jpg

I guess it's no worse than the "good ol' stuff" I used as a kid with absolutely no PPE at all. Thanks for the suggestion.

09/10/2021 22:39:38
Posted by Pete. on 07/10/2021 22:39:43:

Not paint stripper, but Bahco Tungsten Carbide scrapers are now my go to for paint removal on cast iron, the 625 is probably the most useful, you'll wonder how you got by without one when you use one.

I removed a few layers of paint from these castings with ease, it comes off in one scrape, as it comes off in dry chips it's probably one of the least messy methods of paint removal.

Pete,

That press looks very nice!

My next job will be the Portmac vertical mill but I need to get this Multico A3 table saw completed first. All I've got left to do is a quick clean up of the cast iron top and then it can all be reassembled. It was a bit neglected and rusty when I picked it up (didn't pay much for it) but it's looking much better now. Hopefully it will be the last machine I do with a knotted wire brush on an angle grinder as I don't like getting blasted with wires as they break free.

multico-A3-table-saw

Thread: Home CnC
09/10/2021 20:03:59
Posted by Alan Kinsey on 09/10/2021 19:57:20:

Hi

I'm also looking for a bench top CNC mill, I'm looking at a second hand Denford Triac but becouse of the age you don't know if you are buying a heap of problems. Also moving and transporting is difficult.

I am fairly confident on the mechanical side of the conversion, but not the electronics as there is so much choice of components' and settings.

I have priced a complete kit from CNC4YOU that is almost plug and play, but its nearly 5K, but you do get 19"X7"X13" working envelope.

Cheers Alan

2

Lack of software and incompatibility with modern operating systems is another problem too. Maybe I'm wrong but haven't I heard that denford software is difficult to obtain? For example, if the machine was originally for the school market.

Yet another Brian

Thread: HELP needed
09/10/2021 19:59:32
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 09/10/2021 15:22:29:

Fumes from hydrocloric acid will rust everthing in sight.

HCl has no place in a machine shop.
Also note you now need a locence for any significant strength of Sulphuric acid including battery strength. Technically emptying the acid from a battery to use as a pickle is a crminal offence.

Never heard of that requirement so I had to look it up out of interest.

https://www.gov.uk/government/news/government-introduces-tough-new-measure-to-prevent-acid-attacks

Thread: Paint stripper
07/10/2021 22:32:37
Posted by Thor 🇳🇴 on 07/10/2021 17:44:51:

Hi Brian,

If you can buy sodium hydroxide (NaOH - caustic soda) where you live that may be one option. Cast iron or steel objects should be able to survive a dip in strong sodium hydroxide solution. Wear rubber gloves, safety glasses/face shield (preferably both) and protective clothing. Sodium hydroxide must be handled with care, after use you should neutralize it with acid, strong vinegar is one option.

Thor

Thor, giving this some more thought, can you suggest a mix ratio for stripping paint from iron / steel? You also mention neutralizing it with an acid, but how much would I need? Vinegar is easy to buy but I also happen to have some brick acid if that is useful. (**LINK**) Assume that I know nothing about chemistry and you won't be far wrong.

07/10/2021 22:23:24
Posted by IanT on 07/10/2021 19:44:29:

I've used 'Paint Panther' with some success on my machines - which have previously been painted in either enamel or Hammertite. I've also used (the much cheaper) 'No Nonsense' paint stripper from Screwfix. This does work but is slower in action and required more coats than Paint Panther. Both need some mechanical assistance (in parts) with wire wool or scraper. I think it also helps to clean any muck and grease off before using the stripper.

Gloves and googles of course and I normally wash the parts down with white spirit after stripping to get rid of any residues. You can probably use other washes ( hot soapy water?) but that's what I used.

Hope this helps.

IanT

Thanks for the suggestions.

07/10/2021 22:09:36
Posted by Dave Halford on 07/10/2021 20:02:23:
Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 07/10/2021 19:43:28:

Old fashioned car brake hydraulic oil did a good job at stripping paint - don't know about modern oils though.

Come to that so does Cellulose thinner.

Well, I have none of that to hand but I do have some acetone and it appears to have absolutely no effect on the paint.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate