Member postings for DiogenesII

..maybe the most careful assembly and close tolerances are to be found in the structure of Hemingway's opening paragraph

"I've moved the cutter forward with the top slide until it just touches the bar. I set the zero on the top slide and advanced it 0.92mm (3 and a bit divisions off a full turn).

Next zero the cross slide and the top slide. Move the topslide back until it just touches the bar again (a bit over one turn)..."

Your tool point looks fine - when you say "move the topslide back", you need to come much further back, and then go forward again to touch, in order to remove any backlash in the feedscrew..

..at present it sounds like you are touching off, turning less than a full turn (to achieve "full depth" zero), then coming back over 1 full turn to touch again.. try coming back, say, 3/4 of a turn, and then go forward again for your final touch..

sincere apologies if I have misinterpreted...

+1 for heating to dull red and allowing to cool naturally.

Could part of the problem be the "right angle" requirement - if you are attempting a sharp 90 degree angle, it's asking a lot of the ductility.. It would be much easier if you were able to form the bend over a radius, if there is scope within the design for this to be practical..

I once owned a 3j scroll chuck with reversible jaws - ancient (it came with a Brittania), maybe a "Crown", 4(-ish) inch size (memory gets rather treacherous here).

IIRC (and I think what Robin means), it isn't that the jaw positions change relative to the slots, it's just that their sequence of engagement with the scroll is reversed, in that "3" requires engagement first, and "1" engages last..

Martin, I'm truly sorry to hear of your friend's accident and the consequences, both for him and his family.

I just really wanted to say that you and his family should perhaps discuss whether you really should act immediately on his currently stated wishes to dispose of his collection so soon after such a life-changing event - decisions taken shortly in the aftermath of such a trauma could perhaps not have been (dare I say it - I sincerely mean no offence) effectively reasoned or fully thought through - one never knows what the final outcome for your friend may yet be, and he would certainly not be the first person of my acquaintance to have acted hastily in a ift of depression after such bad news who had cause to regret it later...

Best wishes, and with some uncertainty whether to press the "Add Posting" button at all..

D

Yes. I too got fed-up with drip feed oilers and decided, that as a very bottom line, all I really needed was something that would hold enough oil to last for a "cuts" worth of time - I'm not too concerned about the "inconvenience" of having to check the level and top-up if necessary during the course of a day in the workshop, and neither do I have a problem with memory, so I bought a couple of these;

https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Nickel-Plated-Oil-Cup-5-8-x-1-8-BSP.html

The reason I didn't buy a larger size was that these fit, and can be easily opened and filled, in the (constrained) space above the back bearing, which is limited by the belt guards. They are probably better than one would expect at that price.. If you have "old," better quality ones, by all means fit them ..the thread size is 1/8BSP .. you could always fit them on a "stand-pipe" to clear the guards if they are larger. Leave time for the oil to reach the bearings before starting if they are "dry".

I never fill them right up - one soon acquires a mental gauge of when to refill, and I found that regular checking and adding a squirt just becomes part of the rhythm of operating the machine, like oiling the ways, the handwheels, and the changewheel studs is, just at a higher frequency. I feel like I waste less oil than I did before, no more lying awake at night thinking of that expensive Nuto running down the front of the headstock and off across the chip-tray under cover of darkness..

It's worked fine for me, it sounds like it might for you, I daresay it isn't right for everyone.

Hi Mario

There are two socket screws in the rear of the tailstock base - the one at the front (nearest the headstock) is a CLAMP screw. The one to nearest the centre of the base is a FORCING screw which presses against the side of the base, to open the gap and allow the tailstock to slide.

To free the tailstock, loosen the front clamp screw, and gently tighten the forcing screw until the tailstock is free - no more than one quarter of a turn, as there is danger of cracking the casting. As you say, it may be stuck to the bed with old grease.

To adjust the tailstock for use, slacken the back forcing screw, and gently tighten the front clamping screw until the tailstock is only just, but still firmly held. Then gradually tighten the back forcing screw until the tailstock can move. It may take some attempts to balance the forces correctly to achieve smooth movement with a new lathe, as the parts will need to bed in.

The carriage is adjusted in the same way - here, the FORCING screw is in the centre, and the CLAMP screws are at either side.

The plastic parts should already be fitted in your lathe, they are retained there by pins fitted during manufacture. I think Hans had to replace his because someone had removed them, it is not a modification that needs to be done.

These are very accurate lathes if adjusted correctly, as you have a brand new lathe it will be worth trying find a manual so that you can get the best results from it, and look online for further information.

kind regards D

Ha, Niels, this must be an even more temping project now than it looked at the beginning of October - you will need one of these;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MT6-MORSE-TAPER-LATHE-DEAD-CENTRE-HARDENED-GROUND-Quality-Heavy-Duty-Tool-/132174226697

Have fun

D

There's a very relevant response (third reply, by Bob Brown 1) in this thread;

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=98914

Having chewed this over in my mind for several days, now, I wonder if it is worth trying to take advantage of one of the properties of fluid dynamics, and simply try a long length (coiled against the bulkhead?) of as small-a-bore pipe as you can find - cold oil will find this a singularly difficult passage to negotiate for it's entire length when thick, and with an open-gallery system, find some other route. All you need is a temporary damping of the extreme pressure of start-up.

It needn't cost any more than the price of some pipe to experiment, and I can't see how any damage can result.

I'm half-sure that in the past I have seen this rigged on a low-pressure oil gauge.. - does it ring any bells with anyone else?

Philip,

If you have a subscription, I think you should be able to access the digital archive of all MEW back issues - click the "Digital" heading in the black bar at the top of this page to find out how to do it.

regards

D

There's an idea for a very simple restrictor here;

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/autometer-oil-pressure-gauge-hose.853817/

..restricting flow is an accepted method of reducing "spikes" in gauges. You could fit it in a union at some accessible point so that If it does block, it is easy to service.

Personally, I would most emphatically NOT put any sort of pressure relief valve in the gauge line.. the consequences of a mishap are out of all proportion to the benefits..

Duncan, pleased to hear it got sorted.. ..now that you mention it, when I installed the same one, it needed several restarts before it straightened itself out.. and without prompting for them. As you say, He works in a mysterious way....

D

I wonder if PF stands for Pepperl & Fuchs.. ..Industrial Sensor Manufacturers.. I think Nick is on the right track..

Just realised that Device Manager is present in the Devices & Printers section of the Hardware and Sound page.. sorry!

Good luck, hope this helps..

On my PC, you click the little Window icon bottom left, and scroll down through the list to "Windows System", clicking this gives you a drop-down from which you select "Control Panel" which opens in it's own window and offers "Hardware And Sound" as an option. One of the folders there is called "Manage Sound Devices" - You should be able to select the default you need from there. I don't think Device Manager exists anymore..

I think the Boot Priority changes that you need, to resolve the Windows/Linux issue will have to be changed from the BIOS menu, and I'm not sure how to access that on your machine. I'm sure there'll be something on the 'net.

That is a clever repair - and I hope will be left "as is" as an example of "folk" engineering - one wonders what, and how many, similarly ingenious examples of lateral thinking and applied empirical knowledge have been lost through the "putting-right" of perceived "bodges" of the past, in everything from watermills to pocketwatches..

..it cheers to to think that that particular repair would probably be greeted with the same wry admiration by the maker of the Antikythera Mechanism that it seems to elicit here.