Member postings for DiogenesII

It is confusing - if you do an image search for 'Pollard 12AX pedestal drill' a number of images turn up, a 1930's style massive CI-bodied machine that used flat belts - that's the machine to which I am referring.. .. I see a dark blue one, a light green one, and a single picture of a red one..

In the example I had, the business-end of the spindle is 5/8", the driven tail is 1/2" with opposed key slots that reduce the core to 3/8" - all driven by a sleeve of suitably modest dimensions.

As Clive notes the speeds indicate it was most firmly intended for woodwork.

Just realised it's a Corona - the spindle nose has a male Jacobs taper machined directly onto to it, remove the chuck using taper wedges - My example used a JT2 taper (if there's room to get calipers in, about 0.57 or so imm. above the chuck) - tho' I imagine they're all the same.

The spindle in these machines is solid and of small diameter, so there's no room to fit an internal taper.

There's a thread here with some info and pictures of wedges for chuck removal;

Model-engineer - Jacobs chuck...

Good luck and happy engineering, Derek, sure it will go well!

..What's the lowest RPM that that will run at, Nicholas ?

Nothing to add, other than that in your final photo with the vice arranged to cut in Y, the clamps look as if they are too far back, there will be a tendency for the work to 'bounce', because the vice is free to lift at the 'operator-end'.

The clamps ideally need to be central to the part being machined, or better still, supplemented with another pair closer to the front of the table.

I've taken the liberty of posting the photo, for which I hope you will forgive me, I felt it would help others to provide a more useful response if they could easily see the set-up...

Please can we have a picture or a link - (shouldn't be a problem unless the seller is some offshore budget tool warehouse) then we can see what is different about them.. ..hard to have a discussion otherwise..

Don't know anything about this lot either, other that they are in Staffs and have ex-educational machines that might suit, there's a Warco 1440 & Ajax 165 amongst others:

Tracey Machinery - centre lathes

ROBIN -

Apropos your original post, yes you (probably) can (depends whether your Firefox has the same features as mine)..

I note your reply of this very morning, but will post this nonetheless, it might help someone..

Firefox > Settings > 'Privacy & Security' (from RH list),

Scroll down to 'Cookies & Site Data'

There's a 'tick box' to select 'Delete cookies & site data when Firefox is closed', and next to it, a label to access the menu of 'exceptions' which you will need to populate with the addresses of the sites whose cookies you wish to retain, these just need to be in the general form rather than of specific pages, i.e.
'https://www.model-engineer.co.uk' or 'https://www.trumptonsurgery.com'..

After some experimentation, I have my list down to this site, my bank, my local surgery, my favourite search engine (so that it remembers my disinterest in 'celebrity' news and that I live in the UK), XCWeather (most reliably accurate by a mile), Youtube, and Ebay.

Everything else gets deleted each time I close the browser.

Rarely, 'updates' to Firefox seem to lose addresses, which means that they have to be entered again, but of course that's no trouble - as long as one can remember the password..

For me, it all works very well - although I use the 'net a lot, it's mainly for browsing and buying - the suppliers I buy from either 'remember me' or I have an account, and I don't use social media or maintain a presence in other forums..

I do find that Youtube is a pain - Google wants to know everything about everyone, and as I don't want to retain it's multiplicity of cookies, it makes me sign in anew each time - on balance, something I can live with.

Hope this helps - D.

Just pointing out the existence of this.. ..no connections with this company, but am aware they've been around for years..

Project Machinery - Used Centre Lathes - Warco GH1322

Yes - it's called a 'stage'..

Apologies for being blunt, Andre, but It has the appearance of being clickbait nonsense - it'd be helpful if you indicated the links were to the International Society for Krishna Consciousness 'news' page, and a Youtube channel which superficially appears to be devoted to passing off sensationalist pseudo-scientific conspiracy theory as if it were fact.

Sorry to be rude, but I really do not want any interaction at all with either the ISKC, or 'Top Stories'..

Spherical carbonate concretions are a recognised geological phenomenon, and a number of articles relating to them are to be found - here's a sample;

Nature.com - Articles - Generalized conditions of spherical carbonate..

If you can get a bead to stick (the gears are cast iron) then it'll be fine to re-machine the teeth - an alternative would be to pin & braze / maybe even dovetail & Loctite in a small block and turn to size / form new teeth on that - so yes, in principle nothing wrong with repairing - I think there may be others on the forum who have done it..

Yes, as you say it's a 2BA socket-head countersunk screw (& washer) that retains the gears on their spigot - it has a (ridiculously) small socket, so you'll need a well-fitting Allen key.. ..Good luck!

That's a great video, thanks for the link

Just for the interest, there's a D/H on Ebay at the moment that is the right kind of thing - it's currently bolted to a sub-plate, but was originally supplied for a centre-slot machine...

Ebay - Indexing head...

..unless it's somewhere tucked away and only known to local MEs, I can't think of anywhere.. ..EKP Supplies are based at Barnstaple if it's possible that's who you had in mind?

Or were you looking for somewhere in the SW to visit & buy from - GR Fasteners have a branch at Avonmouth and sell BA setscrews (bolts with a fully-threaded shank).. ..quite a good range, used to use them for all kinds of 'stuff' see their website...

If you want something that will work in your front toolpost until you find (or more likely, end up building) something for the back, the 'chip-breaker' blades from Chronos work well;

Chronos - Chipbreaker Clamp type parting...

..I find I still use mine - it's not always convenient to leave a rear tool on a short ML7 slide - personally I prefer a 3/32" or 2mm blade for the ML, but each to their own..

I also use a 'George Thomas' style rear toolpost (same as 'the Hemingway one', the drawings and build instructions were published in his book 'The Model Engineers Workshop Manual' - it contains many useful projects, observations and advice, and the detailed drawings are sufficient to enable you to hack a body out of steel if you can't easily get an iron casting for the base - if you ever decide to buy a book of Myford-based projects, this is probably the one to get..

On the subject of the base casting, I got mine from AJReeves - and have to say it was a very nice piece to work..

..and oh, yes - in the rear toolpost I use a 2mm carbide insert, upside down, lathe running forward..

Edited By DiogenesII on 30/12/2021 09:36:09

Edited By DiogenesII on 30/12/2021 09:37:41

.the first two weeks of the very first 'Lockdown' were okay - a fleeting opportunity to remember when driving was enjoyable..

Oh for the days when 'work' was a walk or bike ride from 'home' - the passing of that happy condition is a constant source of bitter regret, to me at least..

..there're a few bits and pieces that might be of interest here, not that easy to hit results from a search, but if you pick your way through the various indices..

Vintagemachinery.org - Photo Index - Jefferson Machine..

..if nothing else, you might find some further 'names' to do further searches on, small dividing heads & indexers were also made for lathes & shapers..

Yes, nice to see all three lined up for comparison, thanks for taking the trouble..