Member postings for Ashley Slater 1

I removed the interlock bar this afternoon, it is easy if you have the apron on a bench but probably a bit more difficult if on the machine. It did pull out easily, I threaded a 3/16 whit screw into the end of the bar to enable it to be pulled out I think it’s really a unc thread but they are same pitch. Yet to adjust the knock off il waiting for a warmer day.
I forgot to mention on heavy cuts or parting off I hold the lever up to prevent frequent “knock offs”

Hi if possible I would like the info on feed stop adjustment. I’ve got an apron from a Bantam in pieces at the moment and would like to adjust the feed “knock off” pressure before I reassemble.

Ashley

I think Bede Tools in Jarrow had a Denham in stock when I last visited a few weeks ago, looked to be a good machine don’t think it was that expensive either.

The advert on the Home Workshop web site was from a guy in Chelmsford and he only ground the end lips. New cutter or re- grind I do regrind my own on a Clarkson but it’s awfully tempting to just buy a new one if you have to post or take them somewhere to be reground.

I’ve checked the photos of my Brierley there was one cam marked in two different places RH and LH and the chuck had I think 4 positions or slots that the lock fitted into two marked LH and RH others were marked FB and LB no idea what they were for.I did change the timing according to the ZB25 manual it didn’t help much. Changing the timing required at least 3 hands the large Tufnell gear was only held in position by two 2BA studs and brass nuts. As it was all under spring tension you will know what happened to one of the nuts! There was no facility to alter the crank arm. I had assumed the machine I had was a ZB 11or 12 max size drill that could be fitted through the spindle was less than 12mm Quite honestly it was the most frustrating (and heavy) bit of kit I’ve ever owned I only paid £40 for it and was glad to see it go, but I do have a. Clarkson drill grinding attachment, however , the friend I sold it to did get it to work correctly. My plan was to get it working and sell at a profit in the end I just about covered my costs.

I have to admit I moved my Brierly ZB11 on as I couldn’t get it to grind correctly however hard I tried. Plus it was so big I didn’t have the space, but the person who bought it did get it to work. As I understand Brierly had a fire some years ago and all records were destroyed but I’d be surprised if there isn’t a copy of the manual somewhere. I bought a ZB25 manual it was of some help. My main issue was drill projection from the chuck and was drill on Center line of grinding wheel. Plus getting the 4 jaw to hold anything above 6mm was impossible you can see why they moved to a 6 jaw. Of course you could try and change the chuck but 80mm 6 jaw chucks are a tad expensive new and impossible to find secondhand.

Ashley

Hi I seem to be in a similar position having acquired the basics of a Brierley. I have no grinding motor so planning to mount a bench grinder on the slide with the LH wheel removed and spindle covered, that seems easy enough. I don’t have any lever or details of how the motor is traversed along the grinding spindle axis, I have all of the cross slide that moves the wheel closer to the drill but nothing to slide the motor along the spindle axis any body could send me some info on how the lever mounts and how it works it would be great. Then I need to make the drill position gauge but that looks possible. It’s very old only has 4 jaw chuck fitted No makers plate only the supplier who were Monks and Crane and owner Girling Brakes all of whom are in Romford I think so not far from me.

I would imagine it’s the flux that causes the problems. I would love a heated workshop but heating one occasionally means too many condensation issues soI wear lots of clothes and keep moving.

Ashley

I was just looking up ems when I came across this, That’s good to know I have their systems on my mill and lathe they have been very reliable but it’s good to know the manufacturer still exists.

Ashley

Thanks for the Replies so far. I've had a measure. It seems that the amount of backlash is consistent over the whole movement of the table. I have measured it as about 18 thou (0.4mm) . I moved the hand wheel to the left then right watching the dro as soon as the display changed I noted the reading on the hand wheel it was 18 thou where ever I tried. The next question would be have I adjusted the lead screw thrust races and the answer is yes I have they are as tight as I would want to go. So it does look as if I'll have to investigate further, I cant see that wear on the lead screw would be consistent over the whole length so with out a bit more investigation I'm no further forward. I'm sure you all know how it goes you just put up with it until one rainy day when boredom has set in you decide to investigate further.

The mill has seen some use before I bought it, all I have done is add inverters to run the 3 phase motors after digging out the star points. It's a good machine but I have difficulty keeping the vertical head part vertical as it all pivots and slides on a circular ram, and speed changing by belts is not ideal.

Ashley

I have an Elliott Omnimill that I use often and have added a DRO which I thought would help with the backlash in the slides, it does but it still a bit of an issue. Some years ago on this site I think there was some info on modifying the nuts or perhaps making new ones. I don’t want to start dismantling the mill until I know a bit more and have decided what to do about the problem. I am very tempted to make acetal nuts by the “heat melting” method using my lead screws as a pattern but can’t see how I’d mount the newly made nut as it would be essentially a round tube shape.

Anybody got any thoughts on the best way forward or do you think the actual lead screws will be too worn.