Member postings for Chris V

Thanks David, good to know about the Verdict one, I shall take a closer look at getting that set up. I don't know as yet about the chuck, once I got the lathe running the one thing I noticed was the tailstock being out so was concentrating on that. With the method you just describe how much metal protruding from the chuck would you suggest given no tailstock is being employed?

I was just re acquainting myself with L H Sparey's The Amateurs Lathe and see the method I suggested using a fixed steady above is described in the text, so I must have remembered that! Also a method without using a test dial but a sharp tool in the toolpost and a sheet of white paper to aid seeing whats what,...this could be more my level right now! (-:

For checking the dia of a turned piece, is a micrometer (which I have not got) the correct tool or a digital Vernier caliper?

Chris.

Hi Nick,

Thank you yes I have found plenty of these but I'm after a longer one around 12". Have found one in Ali this morning but I shall not be buying that, must be a steel one somewhere?!

Regards Chris.

Good morning David & Howard,

So attached are my two second hand indicators, the larger one is a bit sticky but if the plunger is part depressed then actually it seems ok. The Verdict one has a different tip?

Howard, thank you something like this was in the back of my mind. Its the small bore size creating the issue in my head at least, you would think there is a market for between centres test bars especially for those with smaller lathes but I cannot locate one online?? I was wondering if to make one if I got a larger dia ground bar say 1" or so, one end in the 3 or 4 jaw chuck and then centred the far end say 12" long accurately within a fixed steady, drill the centre and then reverse the bar and centre drill the other end. Does this seem a reasonable way to do it?

Chris.

Thanks David,

Yes that's what I thought but thought i'd best check! I will post photos later or in the morning, I think I have two types with different tips...

Chris.

Hi David,

Ah thank you, I like it!

I got a second hand dial indicator, when I depress the tip the needle appears a bit sticky, is this normal or should I be looking for a better one would you say?

Chris.

Thanks Ady1, thats a fair point well made.

Thanks Bazyle, ok I will leave off buying a test bar for now. Yes I don't think dropping the tailstock on the bench helps either...oops!

Chris.

Good morning all,

I have finally mounted up my Myford M type and have found the tailstock is a tad out of alignment.
I have been looking at test bars, the 1MT to fit this lathe seem only to have 4" or 100mm of straight, plus the MT section. Could someone please explain how you go about aligning the tailstock? test bar in the tailstock? Some other method between centres?
Not having experience of this I'd have thought a longer bar between centres would be the way to go, but I just don't know?

Chris.

Well Ive just ordered a double split collar to fit hopefully the column, then plan to drill & tap it for a length of studding.

Unlikely to be super precise but it should be an improvement on having nothing.....

Well I'd not looked at the drill before, I wonder why they didnt provide one...cost grounds perhaps...

Hmm thanks Andy. I'm hoping to cut some flutes around a column that stop short from both ends.

So far a short length of oak strapped to the column with masking tape has worked, however its not the most elegant solution!

Hope someone has come up with a better dodge?!

Chris.

Hi all, particularly anyone who has or has had an Amolco Mill.

Am I missing something or is there no vertical depth of cut stop on these mills?

If not, are there any simple ways of rigging something up?

Chris.

Ok this is all great, thank you all.

24 holes was the only option available ready made & I'm glad to hear its a generally approved of number if divisions.

Yes Nigel, long cap screws through the front and yes I had also thought of the taps & drill breaking. In due course I will fit it to the 4 jaw and as has been suggested might use it to modify other backplates if necessary.

I'm also glad to learn I'm not the only one who uses marker pens to help me, that and masking tape!

One downside with this backplate is it has a register already turned, and guess what its too small a diameter to suit my chucks. But when I bought it i did not know it was there, so my intention is to turn the existing away, turn a larger diameter recess & bolt a new register in place, then trim to size to get it running true. Its more work but still a lot less than starting from scratch with an iron casting.

ega, when the time comes I will look at detents, and thats an interesting thought about removable dividing rings!,

Plenty of food for thought.

Ok off to play with my nuts now, brass dome heads, I think I have to start again )-:

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you all, I was leaning towards the 4" 4-jaw but have trouble making decisions especially as I'm inexperienced.

Typically the 4 jaw chuck fixing screw centres will mean the screw holes in the back plate will come through the back plate half in the main large flat area and half in the outer portion of the threaded section, which would look really messy. The 4" backplate is new and thick, is it acceptable to have the bolts come through the chuck and thread 1/2" deep into the backplate, ie in stopped holes?

ega, There are 24 holes in the backplate, no idea as yet what to pick up with, I figured I'd cross that bridge when I come to it. I was just pleasantly surprised to find a ready made index backplate to fit the Myford M type thread, so went ahead and bought it.

Chris.

I have an ER32, 4 jaw independent & 3 jaw s/c chucks all needing 100mm backplates.

(I also have Square & Hex ER32 collet blocks)

I have three ready threaded backplates one of which has index holes around the rim.

Question is which chuck would be most useful going forward to have the index backplate please?

Cheers

Chris.

I have always used by preference GLR, always been happy!

**LINK**

Chris.

Ok great, thanks very much all, I will give it a go!

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you, yes I'll likely go for wood in this instance.

Next question having just looked on Arc's website:

My draw bar is 3/8" Whitworth. For my Mill I have both 6mm & 1/4" Myford type collets that fit into the 2MT spindle.

I could buy a 1/4" cutter and fit it directly into the Myford collet in the spindle, so minimum projection which I do know is what I should aim for.

Or, I could buy a Weldon cutter holder for 1/4" cutter with 3/8" draw bar thread.

OR, should I get the 6mm cutter and fit it in the Myford Collet, and NOT use a Weldon as these only come with

10mm draw bar thread?

Thanks

Chris.

Oh yes, hadn't thought of that!

Being a past woodworker...what about hardwood such as oak?

Chris.

Thank you Jason, guess I best look at parallels too then (-:

Chris.

Thank you Duncan, no the slot end can be round and it would look better for it I think, as yet undecided.

So you suggest like chain drilling, but maybe overlapping each hole, then cleaning up with a skim as you suggest?

Thanks Martin, yes I'm aware of this as for work I have used a wood router many times. That's not to say I fully understand it so shall certainly read the link you sent!

If my metal stock is held horizontal will I be better off with the end I'm cutting overhanging the end of the vice so I can cut right through, or support on parallels within the vice.

I'm thinking if its hanging out the side of the vice the thin sides may spread when cutting resulting in an uneven width slot,

Likewise if fully supported within the vice maybe the jaws could push the thin sides inwards?

That said I'm leaning towards having it fully supported but very greatfull to hear from those with experience!

Chris.