Member postings for Chris V

Hi NigelG2, wow thank you, just shows me how little i do know (-: This is most helpful.

Appreciate the insight into the milling cutters. So to clarify the threaded end ones are the bees knees as the cutter cannot come out and they have the end pin for extra rigidity.. But plain shank cutters of the correct diameter are fine to use in the collett system you describe ER20 with a draw bar, that I will in time need to make. With this holding technique just like a wood router under heavy load the cutter can slip outwards into the work, but the key will be to take it easy. My mid 1930's Myford ML1 is not exactly built for rigidity so I would not expect it to handle anything too heavy anyway.

Thank you I had not thought about the length of tee nut helping with stability, I will consider that when looking at purchasing one.

When you say the stud should not pass through the nut, I understand that to mean into the nut, but not protruding out the other side so it grounds in the bottom of the tee slot ? Just check I fully understand...

You happen to mention hardened chuck jaws, Ive noticed with some chucks for sale they come with hard and soft jaws....er..lost on me?

Many thanks

Cheers

Chris.

Hi Alan, Thank you for that. so its interesting to know that it could be done but as you say life is too short, I will focus on getting the lathe up and running and how to use that, then tackle milling later on.

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks Old Mart, that interesting. As others have said also, if the sideways movement is out due to the bearing not being designed for sideways load it seems best to stick to milling on the lathe...and maybe upgrade that in due course if/when the need arises.

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you both, I won't!!

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Dunc, I certainly did not realize that about hardness of cutters not holding well in a drill chuck.

I presume I would be safe enough held in a collet chuck, though I notice some milling cutters have a threaded end I think?

For my perceived limited milling though I will stick to trying it on my lathe, first I need to get that up and running.

Appreciate your input,

cheers Chris.

Hi Pete, thanks for your message I live in East Somerset. Stationary engines do it for me too!

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Neil, I think I could spend all my time on the forum and following the links! (-:

Thank you John R 'chain drilling' will be something to bear in mind but the consensus seems don't try to mill with the pillar drill. Thank you also Steve & Rob for your replies.

Also thank you Robin. I just checked and it is an ER (?)set of collets and it does indeed I now see have a tapped hole in the arbor end, I hadn't noticed that before, though its barely been out of its box. So that should be simple enough to sort.

I did in fact get hold of a Myford vertical milling slide, its not the earliest single stud version but the later two stud version which I figured was a design improvement. I think it has a tee nut to secure it to the cross slide along with two alignment pins. Guess what, it dosent quite fit. Think I will have to file a small flat on the two pins, its only about 0.5mm out, rather that modify the cross slide tee nut groove.

Thank you John, Bill & ChrisB for your prompt replies. Obviously I hadn't thought about the chuck coming adrift!

In anticipation of getting the lathe working eventually I did buy a set of collets with 1MT holder for the lathe. Presumably this would then be preferable for any light milling, but the issue might still be the collet holder coming loose in the morse taper? Would it be a reasonable (if/or necessary?) to adapt it with a bolt through the head-stock bore, I think this would be a draw bar?

The thread on the spindle nose is 7/8" x 9 tpi so guess I'm unlikely to get a collet holder to fit direct onto that?

Chris.

Good evening, I'm pretty new to model engineering and still working at getting my Myford ML1 up and running to learn on. I also have a Startrite Mercury bench top pillar drill. Just wondering if its feasible to use this for light milling work with suitable milling vice? As far as I can see the only(?) issue might be cutters slipping in the Jacobs chuck, but would it be ok for as I say light work?

Thanks in hopeful advance....

Chris.

Hi Ian, thanks for your message. Yes Ive been caught up reading threads on the forum on Stirlings, i'm looking at the Bengs kits, though will most likely dither for a while yet!

Cheers

Chris.

Hi Mark, I'm Chris and I just joined the forum this morning. I'm in sunny Somerset, an ex joiner and furniture maker.

Just wanted to say thanks to the images you posted I now know what a draw bar is/looks like!

So thank you, Ive learnt something already.

Hava great day,

Cheers

Chris.

Hi, my name is Chris and I am attempting to get into model engineering..again.

I have worked in wood for most of my working life but have tinkered in the past with 4mm railway modelling an did start a Stuart T. kit about 25 years ago. Then work took over,.... and work then evolved into making Arts & Crafts movement lighting which I am passionate about. Its kind of model engineering (what I make) via the back door! I have just acquired a Myford ML1 which i'm slowly aiming to get up and running to learn on. I have a life long interest in steam engines so have been spending far too much time looking at kits of stationary engines, and I'm now also looking at stirling engines...and various kit of course.

Finding time seems to be the main issue right now, we shall see what happens...